hi guys, signed up yesterday because I couldnt find what I was after and you seem pretty cluey. My 3rd cylinder from left from the seat appears to be the problem. My bikes acceleration has dropped right off and it is much louder than usual. It occasionally has extra (original) power, sporadically, and Ive interpretted this as a lead being poorly connected/ faulty or a coil is dYing. i took the leads off the running engine and all bar the 3rd cylinder affect it greatly. I cant find any info on the coils online, or where to buy good and cheap. also my coils go to 1&2 & 3&4 not 1&4 & 2&3 like in The online manual, is this common? the leads are only just long enough to do 1&2 & 3&4. Am I on the right track or missing it completely? all help appreciated
Coils must fire 1 & 4 , 2 & 3 Someone must have just connected them incorrectly because of the length of the leads. Before buying new coils ..... Connect them correctly If theres still 1 cylinder not firing , swap leads and see if the non firing cylinder follows you. Unscrew the caps and check for corrosion at both ends and that the 'screw' is actually in the wire of the lead and not the rubber surround. Lay the connected plug on the cylinder head to see if its sparking ... (1 at a time) If #3 is still the problem then it may be fuel is the problem not spark ..... carbys more than likely need the once over. Sounds like a new set of leads is in order anyway ..... leads and new caps are a cheap replacement item. http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/ngk-resistor-covers-identification-and-part-numbers.84/ http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/
GreyImport beat me to the punch Yep defiantly 1&4 2&3, if you find a setting that's conflicting with the owners manual, 9 times out of 10 the manual will be correct. Technically speaking it doesn't matter which coil you use to do it, aka left coil can do 1&4 or 2&3 as long as the right coil does the opposite. Just go off the diagram in the owners manual and you should be good! If it's anything like my bike was, swap them round and you'll find a massive difference. Let us know how it goes.
thanks guys, for the links too. Ill head into Springwood this arvo and grab some longer leads. That configuration is how it went to the mechanics and how it returned a year ago When we were trying everything to get it running and on road. I used to have to push it till it was warm before it'd keep going of its own accord. I bought it from a guy non working and he had never had it working either. its had its share of problems but is gradually, peice by peice becoming a new bike
Suzuki wants 192 for a coil, 2 leads and plugs and won't sell just leads,It means Ill have to buy 2 sets too (expensive overkill). bike super market Had nothing, said try kawasaki. went there, they said go to super cheap/ autobarn and get 6mm high tension and just reattach your plugs. Went to autobarn and they said they Only had precut and plugged leads and only car ones. I should have brought pics of my leads, suzuki didnt give me lead/plug part numbers and i CouldnT see ones similar. supercheap at springwood had much more bike gear thAn im used to at supercheaps but decided I needed to do more research.
You should be able to pick up some suitable leads for the coils, they are very easy to make. I am not 100% sure what type of wire they call it but I got some from my mechanic cheap as chips. Just cut to length, screw into the plug cap and push into the coil and screw on the fastener. (If it's like the ZXR) You can get custom plugs or second hand replacements for yours probably off ebay. (I'm sure Grey might know some custom ones) When you're pulling apart your own leads you'll see how it all goes in and it's rather simple.
The chances of the coils being the problem are low ..... leads , plugs and caps arnt neccesarily Suzuki parts as such ....they are probably NGK parts or wateva . All u need is the plug type , plug cap type and size/type of lead (look on the old leads for any printing) Buy the lead in bulk and cut to size thats required . You only buy (any) parts from a dealer if u have no alternative. As Ive mentioned before u need to do the tests I mentioned to ascertain if its even a spark problem ..... my money is on the carbs ...... half the threads on this forum are about carb problems and overhauling them , especially the inline 4s.
Heres some info when I replaced the Fizzer caps http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-fizzer.872/page-3#post-5833 You can get various angled ones also...... think the Across ones are like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NGK-Spar...orcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f3c1a328 And the other simple way to test spark is one of these ........ http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260893110835?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2648
i have some coper coil plug wire but will have to check diameter. what length do you need?if you want closer to home try repco.off tonite to melbourne.
