As tittle says, Head light switch/converting a hardwired head light to being switchable. Easy to do I presume? What are peoples thoughts? Thank you
I believe it was an Australian Standard that bike headlights had to be on when the engine was running, this is why the light switch is broken off most imports and left always on. Not sure about the rules these days as most modern bikes have the ability to turn them off.
My new little bike has a light switch and I never remember to turn the headlight on until somebody in a tank glares at me for not being able to be seen. I prefer to have it hardwired so I don't forget. Why do you want to turn the light off?
well 1 its cool if you want to turn invisible at night for whatever reason. 2 its an extra volt to start up your engine in the cold. 3 it would possibly give you more battery life/globe life 4 some crazy ass people believe the extra volt might give u a better spark HAHAHA
1- maybe I shouldn't ask what. 2-on all mine the headlight goes out when you press the start button. 3- possible. 4- doubt it.
1 - Because I am the bat man... (not really but lets just say someone road rages at you and u need to hide idk) 2 - Interesting I never noticed maybe point 2 is redundant 3 - agreed possibly the only plausible reason at the cost of adding a little extra weight 4 - I've seen some pretty compelling evidence after reading http://cbr250.com/forums/maintenance/282-myth-fact-will-ground-wiring-add-hps.html that messing with the power might give an advantage
Worked for Yamaha few years ago and a lot of bikes just have a metal tab that stops from switching off u can remove it in some bikes if it there
Also sorry in advance, allot of my posts are probably a bit far fetched and silly but I will at least go to the effort to bust each myth. My goal is to find the grail settings for whatever bike I am gonna use. I was the same with guitar, i changed countless resisters and capacitors in a wah pedal just to try make it perfect. I do get that "lose weight, petrol and tyres and practice ect ect" but for me thats automatically assumed. What I am going for is the extra mile, I wanna be the guy that's like yep my cbr DOES pull 45 on the dyno here's the exact set up. I was actually reading this interesting article from http://www.mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm about smaller intake ports, but i guess thats another day another thread hahahaha.
Mine does 44 nothing special in it and at the end of the day hp isn't everything and honestly the diff inbetween mine and a bog standard is couple of hp also remember 45hp isn't at the wheel mate Oh did I miss something I thought u tracking a across?
"Mine does 44 nothing special in it and at the end of the day hp isn't everything and honestly the diff inbetween mine and a bog standard is couple of hp also remember 45hp isn't at the wheel mate" You probably wont believe me if i said i knew it was measured at the crank with a new engine, I was referring to the wheel. Also to go even further I believe dyno's give false results as far as hp is concerned, I would more just use it as a tool to measure gain vs change or vs a different bike. Another big factor i believe in is steady increase in power vs a high peak or peaky power. I want to race, for the money i have and for the plates i am on I believe the cbr250rr advice was solid. The across seriously is a joke in comparison (rake, weight & breaks). The across is good for commuting though ^_^.
my bike has a ballast delay thingy that waits about 10 seconds after key is on to power the headlights (Although not HID's). at least i think its a ballast... what was the question? The thing is, you don't really want your lights off, even with your lights on people still don't see you, especially here in Perth, the quality of drivers is horrendous. to answer your question, from the across i worked on and my cibby, the light buttons are on/off or rather HI/LOW, its either one or the other, if you go to jaycar or altronics or even supercheap maybe, and get a 3 way switchable switch you could do it, off/on/on. I work with electronics for my job, and this would be pretty easy to do, but i wouldn't bother. My opinion, take it or leave it Hamz
Most important tool with dyno imo is the getting fuel air and torque curve if u get it to 45 at the wheel good stuff but I reckon u have to do a lot of expensive mods and at the end of the day the 250 class in qld is more about minimal to get it racing to keep it fair and affordable good luck mate and glad u went cbr route rather than across u won't regret Oh if this is for race bike light not needed so y worry?
(keep it fair and affordable) <- that's a very good point, I guess at the end of the day its to ride better than your opponents not have an overwhelmingly better bike. Well I don't know how much difference removing lights and changing fairings for racing would make on a 250 but if I can keep it road legal that would be cool.
Didn't read the whole thread (laziness really) but mine turns off. I think all modern bikes are hard wired now to have the parking lights on as a bare minimum. Haven't seen a modern bike with the ability to turn the light off (from factory, anyway). I don't think it's illegal if the switch is there from factory but I think it is if you put one on yourself. I've turned mine off before while riding and I didn't do it for long as cars were not able to judge my speed as well - it was pretty obvious the difference. As for night riding... yeh you could disappear but I wouldn't ride around without a headlight unless you're doing naughty things.
Adr (Australian design rules) if it there when manufactured then it must be if not then u don't need it like old cars and seat belts!! Converting road to race would be a pain but can be done and u have to remove all lights and wat not for racing mate
