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Project Honda XL250s 1979

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Murdo, Jan 13, 2018.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Nah the 2x power supply's i have are both AC, my old man gave them to me with a few rectifier's in case i needed them, old man is a retired ex Telstra Technician
    This is the smaller one i use to run 6x 1 metre long 7020 led strip light's in my shed

    20190909_190235.jpg
     
  2. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My 12V DC led's have never flashed running off AC, they're on for 12 - 18 hour's a day for the last 3 year's
     
  4. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    They have to flash as it is Alternating current and a normal LED is DIrect current.
    The frequency will be high enough that they appear to be on all the time as explained in that link.
    Your power supply is entirely different to what will be on a 6 volt bike charging system.
    It won’t be as simple as you make it out to be.



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  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks, I've read that. Have bought the LED light and will see how it goes when it arrives.
     
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  7. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Today I fitted up the LED light and fired up the engine. With the headlight (6volt system) in place and the LED added to the wiring it flickers badly and would be unusable (this is direct AC from alternator). The voltage was only 7.4 at high revs with bulb in place and 15.7 without bulb, so when I connected that to the LED it promptly blew something and it no longer works (even on 12 volt battery). I put the standard bulb back in and it blew too, so I don't know what has happened there. Ran out of time to check any further.
    My question today is how to wire up the bridge rectifier from a single wire from the coil? Do I just use the one wire to one of the AC terminals, run a bridging wire to both terminals or do I have the wrong type for a single wire?
    xxx 008.jpg
     
  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  9. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks my67xr, but if I use the rectifier then it will be DC and have no flickering anyway. Will have to get a Zener diode to stop the power spikes and a bit of tricky wiring to run straight from the alternator to LED, and the standard wiring to headlight.
     
  10. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Seems like this guy has done what you want to do @Murdo .... as per @my67xr mentioned but with a Diode in the feed to the Capacitor.
     
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  11. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Household AC is 50hz, 3000rpm (tv is 24hz, just for comparison), idle is half that and the light only works when there is sufficient voltage in the right direction, which means a lot of off time. Rectifiers need a load to regulate voltage, reg/rec need a battery of about the right voltage. The capacitor is supposed to lead a voltage in an AC circuit, not sure about how it's supposed work on the DC side. But the bridge rectifier needs the AC power supply and an earth are the 2 AC connections, and there should be one marked + for the positive DC output and a - for the negative DC output. But it is only a rectifier, you'll need a regulator (some Kawasaki bikes had the regulator built into the charge coil, somehow). LED lights mightn't draw much load, so you might need the bulb, too. I have probably only added to the confusion. Sorry to hear that the light you have seems to have blown.
     
  12. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Have the new replacement light and a voltage step up box (6v to 12v) fitted up and working. Does flicker a little at idle (but I will not be riding at idle at night) but once over about 1500rpm it is smooth and steady. Will go out one night and see just how good it is. For now is very bright in shed compared to headlight.
    Headlight high beam.
    xxx 004.jpg
    LED.
    xxx 002.jpg
    Step up box, light and bridge rectifier.
    xxx 006.jpg
     
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  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    My Bike:
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    My old XL has been going great the last couple of years but the blinkers have now started going very fast, so fast it is hard to tell they are flashing. I have replaced the flasher can three times with different types, no difference. I have tried upping the wattage of the bulbs from standard 10watt to 18watt with no difference in the flashing rate, just a bit duller. I have fitted a voltmeter and the volts sit at a steady 7.2 when riding, I even left the lights on to flatten the battery down to 5.5volts one afternoon and they still flash too fast. All wiring and switch gear is clean and standard as it left the factory.
    Any ideas why this is happening?
     
  14. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    On my last ride the battery went flat and had no blinkers or stop lights by the time I got home. I soldered two wires to a 12 volt headlight bulb and started the engine, and using the wire found no current coming from the magneto to the charging rectifier. I had replaced the rectifier two months ago, after the original 45 year old one failed, with a modern mosfet type but now had no power to it. I removed the engine sidecover and found the coil for battery charging looking rather crispy. I replaced the coils with one from a spare engine and now all is good again, even the blinkers have slowed down, so I don't know what is going on there.
    Small coil at top of picture.
    xx 020.jpg
     
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  15. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    It has taken 45 years for this old XL to clock up 20,000Km, so time for a service. I had noticed last week when I had the left sidecover off that the balance chain was a little loose, so while the oil was draining I lifted the right sidecover and gave it a tighten. Even the pickup screen was clear, so it must be running nicely.
    zzz 004.jpg
    The kickstart seal has been having a little dribble so I lifted it from the case. The lips were in good condition so I removed and shortened the spring in back of the seal to give a slightly tighter fit to the shaft. Replaced the spring back in the seal and fitted to the case.
    zzz 006.jpg
    zzz 008.jpg
    Ready for the next ride.
     
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  16. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    My old XL has been getting slower and harder to start lately, and has picked up an (oil) drinking habit. I decided that while I had the tools out after doing a rebuild on a friends XL that I put mine on the bench and did the same.
    Head has bad carbon build up and bore worn, so new oversize piston and a rebore coming up. I started with the head. Valves very heavily carboned up and the ports no better. While I had it apart, I couldn't help myself and got the Dremel to clean up all the casting 'dags' in the ports.
    xxx 004.jpg
    A blast clean up, very light touch to the seats and valves brought them back to specs, a diamond lap and check with bearing blue. All good.
    xxx 008.jpg
    The carb mounting rubber had seen better days so while waiting for the machinist to do his magic I cut the old rubber off the alloy mounting, tuned up short piece of tube to match an intake rubber from an XLV600 and welded together. This will sit the carb back about 5mm from the head and will help the shrunken intake tube to airbox seal better.
    xxx 001.jpg
    And then matched to the intake port of head.
    xxx 006.jpg
    Hopefully this rebuild will stop those who ride behind me complaining of the burnt oil smell.
     
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  17. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Got my barrel back from the reborer (finally) and gave it a hot soapy wash and wipe with oil. Fitted the engine back together and when I get some help to get the bike off the bench will be out to do more adventure rides.
    aaa 005.jpg aaa 007.jpg aaa 010.jpg
     
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  18. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Engine running good and quiet, pulls much better up hills too. Out for ride with friends tomorrow so there should be no remarks about the destroyer laying down a smoke screen. :D
     
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