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Project Honda XL250s 1979

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Murdo, Jan 13, 2018.

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  1. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Nah the 2x power supply's i have are both AC, my old man gave them to me with a few rectifier's in case i needed them, old man is a retired ex Telstra Technician
    This is the smaller one i use to run 6x 1 metre long 7020 led strip light's in my shed

    20190909_190235.jpg
     
    my67xr, Sep 9, 2019
    #21
  2. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Andych, Sep 9, 2019
    #22
  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My 12V DC led's have never flashed running off AC, they're on for 12 - 18 hour's a day for the last 3 year's
     
    my67xr, Sep 9, 2019
    #23
  4. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    They have to flash as it is Alternating current and a normal LED is DIrect current.
    The frequency will be high enough that they appear to be on all the time as explained in that link.
    Your power supply is entirely different to what will be on a 6 volt bike charging system.
    It won’t be as simple as you make it out to be.



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    Andych, Sep 9, 2019
    #24
  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    my67xr, Sep 10, 2019
    #25
  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks, I've read that. Have bought the LED light and will see how it goes when it arrives.
     
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    Murdo, Sep 10, 2019
    #26
  7. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    My Bike:
    1937 Royal Enfield 250, CF Moto 250 V5, Honda's XL250, CBR250, FT500 plus a few others.
    Today I fitted up the LED light and fired up the engine. With the headlight (6volt system) in place and the LED added to the wiring it flickers badly and would be unusable (this is direct AC from alternator). The voltage was only 7.4 at high revs with bulb in place and 15.7 without bulb, so when I connected that to the LED it promptly blew something and it no longer works (even on 12 volt battery). I put the standard bulb back in and it blew too, so I don't know what has happened there. Ran out of time to check any further.
    My question today is how to wire up the bridge rectifier from a single wire from the coil? Do I just use the one wire to one of the AC terminals, run a bridging wire to both terminals or do I have the wrong type for a single wire?
    xxx 008.jpg
     
    Murdo, Oct 4, 2019
    #27
  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    my67xr, Oct 4, 2019
    #28
  9. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks my67xr, but if I use the rectifier then it will be DC and have no flickering anyway. Will have to get a Zener diode to stop the power spikes and a bit of tricky wiring to run straight from the alternator to LED, and the standard wiring to headlight.
     
    Murdo, Oct 5, 2019
    #29
  10. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Seems like this guy has done what you want to do @Murdo .... as per @my67xr mentioned but with a Diode in the feed to the Capacitor.
     
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    Andych, Oct 5, 2019
    #30
  11. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Household AC is 50hz, 3000rpm (tv is 24hz, just for comparison), idle is half that and the light only works when there is sufficient voltage in the right direction, which means a lot of off time. Rectifiers need a load to regulate voltage, reg/rec need a battery of about the right voltage. The capacitor is supposed to lead a voltage in an AC circuit, not sure about how it's supposed work on the DC side. But the bridge rectifier needs the AC power supply and an earth are the 2 AC connections, and there should be one marked + for the positive DC output and a - for the negative DC output. But it is only a rectifier, you'll need a regulator (some Kawasaki bikes had the regulator built into the charge coil, somehow). LED lights mightn't draw much load, so you might need the bulb, too. I have probably only added to the confusion. Sorry to hear that the light you have seems to have blown.
     
    ShaneP, Oct 9, 2019
    #31
  12. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Have the new replacement light and a voltage step up box (6v to 12v) fitted up and working. Does flicker a little at idle (but I will not be riding at idle at night) but once over about 1500rpm it is smooth and steady. Will go out one night and see just how good it is. For now is very bright in shed compared to headlight.
    Headlight high beam.
    xxx 004.jpg
    LED.
    xxx 002.jpg
    Step up box, light and bridge rectifier.
    xxx 006.jpg
     
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    Murdo, Nov 8, 2019
    #32
  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    My old XL has been going great the last couple of years but the blinkers have now started going very fast, so fast it is hard to tell they are flashing. I have replaced the flasher can three times with different types, no difference. I have tried upping the wattage of the bulbs from standard 10watt to 18watt with no difference in the flashing rate, just a bit duller. I have fitted a voltmeter and the volts sit at a steady 7.2 when riding, I even left the lights on to flatten the battery down to 5.5volts one afternoon and they still flash too fast. All wiring and switch gear is clean and standard as it left the factory.
    Any ideas why this is happening?
     
    Murdo, May 24, 2023
    #33
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