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Pinned Installing your new LiteTek Seal kit in your ZXR250 Keihin CVK30 carburetors

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Th3_Huntsman, Aug 25, 2014.

  1. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hi Guys

    Sorry in advance for this being bloody long! I have tried to keep it as simple as possible:thumb_ups:

    @Tim_ and myself resealed his carbs and took some photos so I am posting a little "howto" for you all.

    Is your Zxr250 or zr250 balius bogging down between 6-8k rpm or not idling properly??
    Then you need one of these:
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/litetek-carburettor-seal-kits-to-suit-kawasaki-zxr250.1226/
    This is the best seal kit you will find and is possibly better then factory.
    PM Our Member @maelstrom (Blair) for further info!

    Heres a link to the manual for premium members:
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/kawasaki-zxr250-service-manual-part-3.35/
    Why premium members?
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...bership-workshop-manuals-etc.2123/#post-19381

    Tools needed

    Decent sized clean work area (workbench or if your other half is cool, the dining table)
    1x JIS or Phillips no 2 screwdriver
    2x 10mm sockets or spanners
    1x tiny led torch
    1x tiny precision flatblade
    wd40 or equivalent
    Optional if you are cleaning your carbs (good time to)
    1x medium flat blade screwdriver
    1x small flatblade screwdriver.
    1x deep 8mm socket
    air compressor
    threebond engine conditioner (insanely good cleaner for soaking jets in)
    cheapo alcohol based carb cleaner (the 3bond leaves a residue)

    Step 1
    Remove carbs from the bike.... the below thread details how to do this and how to clean carbs it is well worth the read.
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/how-to-clean-your-carbies-on-a-kawasaki-zxr250c.653/
    Step 1.25
    You will need to split your 4 carbs, as the seals you need to replace are in between the carbs.
    To do so you need to remove the screws highlighted in red, Be careful these are JIS screws and will strip easily if using a phillips head screw driver.
    If you aren't certain you can remove these properly read this thread first!
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/dimples.1068/
    Litek.jpg
    Step 1.75
    You need to remove the choke set up (the big long red oval) and the two 10mm nuts so you can split the bank of carbs. It is possible to take apart the bank without altering the sync screws (circled in green) but pay attention to the little springs. If you think you may have changed the sync you can bench sync your carbies before putting them back on the bike.
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/how-to-bench-sync-your-carbs.2053/
    litek2.jpg

    Step 2
    Ok so by now you should have your carbs apart, If you are cleaning them now is the time to do so. Highly recommended!
    If not open the float bowls and remove the floats and float needles, See you may as well clean them. Check your diaphrams for tears and the little washer in the corner.
    I am going to assume you are cleaning them from here on out. Do it right the first time!
    Steps 3-9
    Are you ready to replace the orings?

    Please open and print or have open on your tablet, laptop or pc the litetek part diagram that is handily attached to the bottom of this thread.

    When replacing the o-rings I found it best to give them a light spray with wd-40 so they are easier to work with, especially the float bowl o-rings.
    Firstly I would do the seat o-rings OR-32
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Note the perished seals, these would of leaked for sure!

    Next would be to insert the jets and float and float needle.
    The next seal for replacement is the float bowl gaskets FB-005
    FB-005_4.jpg
    you will notice these sit up compared to your old squashed ones, that's because they are going to do their job!
    litek8.jpg

    Allright we are getting there! Now you can assemble each individual carb, check your slides are moving freely (very easy for the spring to bend and not go in correctly)

    The next seals for replacement are the ones that would have been causing your bike to bog down between 6k and 8krpm. The air breather T-pieces 4x OR-031. Notice the crumbled remains of these seals! (each kit I have done this has happened) no wonder there were air leaks!!!!
    OR-031_8.jpg litek5.jpg
    litek9.jpg

    Next is the Fuel intake pipes:
    The straight pieces use the thicker o-ring OR-030 x4 and the T-piece uses the remaining 4 OR-031
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    You are Nearly there! before you can adjoin the carbies again the last pieces of the puzzle can go in.
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    So CS-004 is for the choke plunger (circled in green)
    litek0.jpg
    Lastly OR-005 and WS-001 are for the pilot screw, please note these screws are for the air fuel mixture on the idle circuit. If your bike is idling perfectly and revs nice till 6k you may want to leave these alone, however if you have some issues with your bike idling then you may as well change these while you are at it!

    NOTE, When you remove the screw you may think that there is no o-ring. This is most likely incorrect. Double check with your small torch, see the little black ring? sometimes knocking it on your workbench will dislodge but sometimes you may need to carefully pry it out with a tiny precision flatblade.
    Second note, the order is washer then o-ring.
    [​IMG]
    The stock setting for the air screw is 2.5 turns out from fully closed, personally I mark with a sharpie the point that matches the screw and count 5 half turn (1/8th of a turn makes all the difference, you are aiming for the exact same setting across all 4 carbs)

    You can now join all the carbs up and get them ready to go back onto your bike!
    You can also purchase the airbox seals from LiteTek! AS-006
    AS-006_4 (1).jpg
    if you have some of these already and they are in good condition, Lucky you! I would swap them for these and hang on to the originals as spares!

    Once you have the bike back together and running, grab the cheapo carbie cleaner and spray around the base of your carbs, if your revs don't increase AWESOME! You don't have any air leaks:thumb_ups: If the revs do rise unfortunately the last airleak is the carbie manifold boots. (if your pilot screw was set out further to say 3.5 turns this was the previous owners or mechanics attempt to hide/fix this) the only thing you can do here is get new ones :(

    Good luck, remember this is a very general guide and may not cure all your bikes symptoms there are many variables to take into account. By following this guide you do so at your own risk and I assume no responsibility if something goes wrong. By all means start a thread or pm @Th3_Huntsman, @maelstrom @GreyImport and we will endeavor to further help you.

    Trying to have the full 45hp is fun isn't it!

    Thanks for reading
    Tyson AKA th3_Huntsman
     

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    Last edited: Aug 28, 2014
  2. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Good work Tyson, that should help the ZXR owners out.
    Since I have added a shopping cart, I made the airbox seals a separate item.
    cheers
    Blair
     
  3. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks Blair, feel free to link/use it.

    If anyone who has done the kit has something they would like to add, please do :)
    Lastly, a thank you to all who pointed out the pictures that weren't loading this has now been fixed.

    Cheers

    Tyson
     
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    Last edited: Aug 28, 2014
  4. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    And thank you for writing it mate..
     
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  5. sean81

    sean81 Member

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    yeah! i been looking for these! my zxr bogs/hesitates around 8-10k rpm... figured it was air leaks! thanks heaps! i might even get the '89 model running as well as the '93!
     
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  6. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    not worries mate that's what the community is here for..
     
  7. rimshot

    rimshot Member Premium Member

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    Just to ad a point... Be aware that if you spray your seals with carby cleaner SOME brands will stuff the seals. I found this out the hard way and then I read the can where it said NOT TO BE USED ON RUBBER OR PLASTICS OR PAINT . something to keep in mind
     
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  8. backyardkiwi

    backyardkiwi Member

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    Thanks Phil, arrived today will keep you all posted!
     

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  9. backyardkiwi

    backyardkiwi Member

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    Hi guys seal kit all fitted and carbs cleaned out, they were quite gummy as well, and the filters had significant solid matter built up on them. I'm gonna start a new thread with some of my experiences.
     
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  10. Adam Giles

    Adam Giles Well-Known Member

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    Do these kits fit both A and C models?
     
  11. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    yes, same carbs just different jetting I am pretty sure.
     
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  12. Adam Giles

    Adam Giles Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I'll be getting a couple of kits when I do my winter strip down.

    Sent from my HTC Desire 620 using Tapatalk
     
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  13. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    This is correct.
     
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  14. StarletRick

    StarletRick Active Member

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    Quick question chaps..

    I'm in the process of installing the seals, and have query about the float needle/fuel filter seal.

    With the new green ring installed on the seat, I have to really give is a hard push to get it into the carb and if you let go it just pops back out and sits proud a few mm.

    I have resorted to squeezing it flush with a pair of pliers, and then screwing the retaining bolt down while maintaining the pressure. The seal looks to be the same as OEM and fits on the seat perfectly fine, but the old seal fits flush without any pressure - but that is also 20+ years old and could be compressed.

    I just want some reassurance from others that they did this, and it all works fine. It should be OK as its a relatively low pressure seal, but it doesn't hurt to ask!

    As far as trouble shooting, it is being installed on a genuine Keihin part and I've lightly lubed the o-ring when fitting.

    Thanks,

    Rick.
     
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Here you go Rick,
    This is a pic of the OEM part and our part OR-032.
    o-ring thickness is about 1.40 mm
    OR-032.jpg
     
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  16. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    What you are describing does sound like it is too tight. Please check the size of that o-ring and maybe some members here can tell you what kind of a fit it is from their experience.
     
  17. StarletRick

    StarletRick Active Member

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    It fits on the brass piece perfectly and doesn't look over/undersized. It's just a bit of an effort to get it on. I'll measure it up when I get home and report back.

    I'm sure it will be fine, I just thought I'd ask.
     
  18. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Are you using silicon oil on the o'ring's ?
    I know my FZR needle/seat (float mount) o'ring's are very tight to fit if i don't lube them enough, they just want to pop back out
     
  19. StarletRick

    StarletRick Active Member

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    I used just regular assembly oil on it. I'll see if I've got any silicone or ptfe lube in the garage
     
  20. StarletRick

    StarletRick Active Member

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    Update:

    A bit of Teflon lube made it seat much easier and it isn't popping back out. They are very snug orings!
     
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