Project Linkins 3LN6 - The Pink Lady

That's the baffle yeah.

It restricts the exit down to about 20mm, roughly the same as the standard pipe but without doubling the internal length like the standard one does. I'll dig in the forum and find the diagrams of the exhaust as they're quite nice

 

Here it is:

 

Last couple of items to go then she is officially complete!!!

Steering head bearings
Replacement handlebars (they're both bent, the right one is worse)
Replacement seat

Bearings I can order through work, handlebars and seat coming from Japan, both of which are in mint condition which is rare these days!

I also sorted out the tail lights and brake lights today, the connector had come unplugged. Reconnected and tested, front brake switch working, the rear not... checked the switch, someone forgot to reconnect the spring to the lever when they overhauled the rear brakes

 

Today I did the steering head bearings. The bearings and races for top and bottom are very similar but not the same, same deal with the seals. One bearing/race are marked ending in -10, the other with -03. So pay attention to what goes where. In my case, it had tapered rollers fitted already (poorly) in the correct orientation, so I copied that. Taller bearing/race/seal in the top. Both are the same diameter.

However the old lower race was not knocked in all the way. Nice job whoever did that.... The 3LN frame has a double step like some of the Hondas have, which can make it a bit tricky to get the races in straight doing it the old school way (freeze the race, set it on the frame and tap around the edges). The races are not very tall which adds to the difficulty.

I'm not sure if it's a design feature or error, but the holes for the steering races and triple clamps were not perfectly centred in the frame. Or the frame was not perfectly aligned during assembly and welding and they corrected it by offsetting the bores for the races.

In any case, there were no cutouts to knock the races out easily. However, due to the offset/misalignment, the ledge that normally prevents you knocking out the races disappears at about 5 o'clock when looking from the top. I was able to use a die grinder to remove just enough alloy to knock out the top race easily (one tap and it was out, not a tight interference fit). The old bottom race wasn't fully seated so I was able to get my race remover in there and knock it out in one tap too.

New ones went in without a problem using proper tools (bearing drivers). Hand packed bearings, top one sat in the race and bottom one knocked onto the stem (don't forget the seal first, done that before!)

Tensioned the bearings and moved steering, backed off and re-tensioned. Too loose. Had play when I rocked the fork bottoms forward and back. Re-tension again, no play and easy to move - perfect. Did up the top nut and it stiffened up significantly. Backed off and re-tensioned the top nut with less torque. Top clamps and handlebar clamp bolts done up after the top nut. And it was perfect. Rides beautifully.

Oh, got the new screen too. This is the first FZR250R 3LN3+ screen I've bought that actually fits the model I bought it for. Thank you Eaglescreens. Opted for the 'windlip' version in light tint. The only thing I did with it was use a step drill to enlarge the holes to take rubber wellnuts.

Just got brake pads to go and I will make some time for drags in Tamworth if possible, otherwise it'll be the 1/4 mile at SMSP and then a track day

 

I took the 3LN6 out today for a ride and halfway through it was starting to get dark and I noticed the headlights were not running. Nothing on high beam either, and no high beam indicator light on the dash. Hmm. And half the tacho plus the temp gauge go dark every time I hit a bump, and come back when I stop and idle for a few seconds.

Finished up what I was doing and went back to the workshop, had a play around checking fuses and globes, all good, nothing blown. But did find the nut for the positive lead on the starter solenoid loose and fixed that.

Had no voltage at the headlight plugs, so I started grabbing wiring plugs and harnesses and when I touched the left hand switchblock wiring everything suddenly came back. Wiggled and jiggled a bit more and watched the headlights cutting in and out. Appears I have some work to do with the switchblock and wiring.

I'm going to have to revisit the carbs (what a surprise!) as there is a consistent cough/stutter when creeping open the throttle, and when creeping it closed and slight overrun. The fact I have a cold exhaust on cylinder 1 bothers me as well, I think the air jets need more attention.

But other than that, it has been smooth sailing!