Hi all pretty straight forward. Once the fuel tank is off, is it a straight forward process to remove the airbox and carbs? I have looked through the service manual a few times from 24-21 to 24-24 a few times but I am having trouble understanding certain bits. is the choke cable and throttle cable easy to remove? do I need to drain the fuel using the drain plug? (mind u it doesn't say where it is). you get the idea.
The choke cable is dead easy, undo one small screw and the cable will come loose, then pull by hand the choke assembly to the right so as to give yourself room to get the end of the cable out of it's perch. Throttle cables are simple also. Once choke cable is off you can lift carbs up......I put a piece of tape on the top cable sheath so you recall where it goes back to. Undo the cable fastners so as to extract cable from holder, push the cable forward into the carbs so as to give yourself room to remove the lug from the carbs......pay close attention to the cable path. Do the same with the bottom cable and you'll have them out in no time. Being a push/pull configuration with the throttle cables is why I mark the top cable with the tape.....easy to remember. Once the carbs are out, turn them upside down and they drain pronto......works for me. You'll have no problems I'm sure.....good luck.
Cool sounds straight forward enough thanks! "pay close attention to the cable patch" whats a cable patch?
Its also saying stuff like "loosen four screws on the carburetor insulator band on the cylinder end. Does that need to be done? also it doesnt mention removing any hoses?
Im just gonna list this out in order and hopefully I haven't missed anything. 1. remove fuel tank (done it before no problems there) 2. I have to remove the new air-filter to get to the screws that allow the air box to come off completely 3. detach choke cable and throttle cables 4. (the confusing bit) not sure if i have to remove any hoses or touch the insulator band screws 5. PULL HARD and get the bad boys out. is that it in a nutshell?
Ahh i just googled what insulator bands are. Thats the actual bands holding the carbies onto the engine isnt it.
Most certainly does, you will need a long screw driver as 3 of the carbs are to be loosened from one side and only one on the other.
i dont have a super long screw driver but I will try figure something out. I have an L shaped allen key thing that has a phillips head on the end?
so yeah I'm feeling up to the task, will be home in about an hour to take it on in the dark. goal is: change main jets shim needles up 1 washer turn all 4 pilot screws EXACTLY 1 quarter anti clockwise then put everything back together. Should I take photos?
Okay glad that nightmare is over. The jets are in 15 12 12 15 The pilots are a quarter turn further out. However when I tried to add washer to the need mine were far too big and that was with m3's. The washer on these needles are microscopic!!! I am gonna try get the right washers and give it another stab on the weekend. The good news is I didn't ruin anything and it's still running. Gave it a test ride but it was extremely cold and the engine didn't get a chance to warm up. Can't say from what I experienced any real difference from before, though the rev range doesn't feel ass thin as before seems to have more beef to it. Looking forward to ridding it to work tomorrow to know for certain after it warms up. I got a handful of photos I will put up later. I think to get the most out of it I will need to get those washers in and do a proper balance of the carbs I'd say. I also noticed my mini air filter was empty, might throw some race sponge in there.
