After being off the road for just over a year and having just endured a flood I am happy to say that my bike is finally up and running again, I was even able to take it for a ride around the yard. Only let down is that it does not seem to be charging so I am taking the battery to work tomorrow to give it a charge so that I can do some more testing on it tomorrow arv following this great article posted by Dave: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=v-r_trouble_shooting_flow_chart">http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=v ... flow_chart</a><!-- m --> I tried my other CDI unit as I thought that it may have been faulty from the flood but it was the same so I will do the multi meter tests, I have also got a brand new voltage reg coming in case it is the reg which I am hoping it is, I will post some timeline pics up of my bike from the past 2 years that I have owned it once I get to the bottom of the charge issue.
Got around to testing it today, no voltage increase when bike is running, voltage reg wires have the required 40 - 60v at 3k (was 40-42v) but I could only get a resistance reading of .26 and not sure why this is low but the voltage is within limit, I think I will put the voltage reg on and just see how it goes.
Trev you have enough voltage coming out of the alternator to make it charge, so if you battery voltage does not rise with the RR connected then you have a crook regulator.
Yeah as said, I have a new regulator on the way, not sure why I have low resistance though. I would of used my other reg but it seems to be aftermarket and the loom was modified to suit.
If all the 3 phase windings measure the same and are insulated from ground then there is no real problem. The reading could be a meter problem. I have a special (read expensive) meter to do low ohms readings for earth testing.
All 3? The list I posted above says to measure all 2 wired combinations of white wires, these are the 2 under the seat that come from the CDI, the multimeter I used is the same/similar to this snap on one so dunno. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=84656&group_ID=1367&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog">http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog</a><!-- m -->
Kinda lost now. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=v-r_trouble_shooting_flow_chart">http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=v ... flow_chart</a><!-- m -->
dave is not talking about the wires that go to the CDI unit. He is talking about the wires that come from the altenator and go to the regulator rectifier unit. They are all coloured white. They are all connected up in the windings but they do not connect to earth. Each wire has its own winding back to the point they all meet up, hence three phase. If the altenator / stator windings are in good condition then the resistance between any two of the three white wires on the conector blocks will be the same. It will be very low resistance, but all three will be the same. Normally though the altenator / stator windings aren't to blame. First check that your earth connections are good. Battery to frame & Engine to frame! The charging circuit is just that - a loop - and it will only let through enough charge as can pass the weakest link in that loop. The normal culprit for flat batteries is the regulator rectifier unit. It is only small and doesn't get cooled very well. I have seen this on the FZR250, it's some where under the battery. It looks exactly the same as the RD350 one I just replaced. A bike will still run with a borked reg/rec and the altenator will still read the correct voltages. The battery voltage could show anything from 11.5 - 17V. If you charge a battery up and stick it on then the failed reg/rec will be slowly earthing out it and flattening it, all the time. The CDI ignition unit is NOTHING to do with charging the battery <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> It's for the ignition timing, exup etc.
You do know that the CDI isn't just that little black box on the back of the bike? Capacitor discharge ignition is what I am talking about and I was measuring the wires coming from that, the CDI is what all of you are referring to as the alternator. I knew it was the regulator all along which is why I bought one, I just wanted to double check everything.
<!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_offtopic.gif" alt="" title="Off Topic" /><!-- s --> Just for a bit of a side story, the FZR does not have a C.D.I., they use a T.D.I. (transistorised digital ignition) History lesson: <!-- s:???: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt=":???:" title="Confused" /><!-- s:???: --> CDI's were popular on the 70's, being one of the first electronic ignitions to be developed. They were a bit prone to causing false firing in other plugs at the same time due to the high energy pulse produced and sparks jumping around inside the distributor.. They have dropped out of favour these days, and I don't think anyone produces them now. Ignition control, with the the advent of ECU's in the 80's, is now is done by micro processors. Engines usually have a crank/camshaft angle sensor which sends signal to ECU to control firing. My wife's car (Ford Falcon) has six coils, each one sitting on top of the spark plug, I would presume most modern cars would be similar. PS: still awake?
Confused myself with CDI and magneto, been a long few weeks <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> Your wifes falcon (BA/BF/FG) uses a COP (coil over plug) ignition, most manufacturers use this system these days.
