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Project My ZXR(s)

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Krompot, Jun 5, 2022.

  1. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Picked up 3 ZXRs today. The green one is at 38k km, the middle at ~100k, and the one on the right at 48k km. I will test the oil pressure and compression of them all tomorrow and see what needs doing.

    The plan here is to do them up, sell one of them as road legal which should pay for everything. I will try to keep the green one for myself, after I do it up, and maybe keep the last one as a track bike.

    Seeing as the 'nice' 38k bike's rego has lapsed, I will need to transfer the plate from one of the other bikes. But due to the no ABS no re-rego laws in NZ, either I need to swap frames, or swap frame vin numbers. Which would be easiest? Do they even check them? IMG_20220605_164852_176.jpg IMG_20220605_164908_855.jpg
     
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  2. Frankster

    Frankster NFI Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    The TYGA kit on the green bike looks like it's in good nick. Good pickup.
     
  3. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yeah, It's brand new. I got a real bargain for them so I couldn't turn them down. The black tyga kit is really good, too. The tank cover is inside my ute, it was just on there loose. Both kits are complete!
     
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  4. Frankster

    Frankster NFI Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Yep, if I could score those 3 bikes in that condition over here, I'd be as happy as a pig in you know what. It's almost impossible to get anything like that project here. Sellers want top dollar for bikes that don't even run! I'll be watching your progress with this project.
     
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  5. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    OMG, leave it up to brainless politicians to come up with stupid laws. How did anyone ever ride a motorcycle in the past without the magic of ABS?
     
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  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Grand pickup :thumb_ups:

    If/when u pull the Tyga covers off can u show me where the coolant overflow bottles are located
     
  7. ZXRNZ

    ZXRNZ Member Premium Member

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    Thats a score and a half dude. Well done. I might be able to help if you need anything, have lots of electrical spares that came with mine. Looking forward to seeing more pics!
     
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  8. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Hi everyone, thanks for all the good wishes.

    Grey, the overflow bottle is just ziptied onto the radiator . Someone removed some fins and ran the zip tie through there.

    ZXRNZ, thanks mate. Will be in touch if there's anything I need.

    I got the green bike ('95) running tonight. Replaced the reg/reg wiring and plug as it was a bit munted. Still only 10V coming out at 5k rpm, even with working battery fitted. Will measure stator resistances tomorrow.

    Also, it feels like the clutch might be slipping a little when shifting at high rpm, but I'm not entirely sure. Will have to confirm.

    Lastly, the doesn't rev past 16k. Is this a CDI restriction? I will put the '92 CDI on the bike tomorrow and see if it makes a difference.

    Cheers everyone!
     
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  9. Frankster

    Frankster NFI Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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  10. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  11. Frankster

    Frankster NFI Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Ill just get something like this and customise a setup

    That's what I used on the Salt Bike. It worked fine and made it through tech without any issues.

    Tech Inspection melbourne.jpg
     
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  12. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Ordered new clutch friction plates from impex japan + some "heavy duty" springs.

    Still having trouble getting it to rev past 16k. I put a '92 CDI on. Does anyone have some insight into the meaning of cdi numbers?

    Started tearing the other bike (black) apart last night. Got it running, but on 3 cylinders. Carbs looked clean and have brand new litetek seals installed. Will put another set on today and see if any different.
     
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    With the TCI units, A and C models have different pinouts and wiring/connectors. Use the correct one for your engine/harness. The A and C model engines actually have different bore and stroke. A models will be 45HP with most C models excluding some very early ones being 40HP.

    With the clutch, you have to alternate the thick and thin steel plates. So friction plate, thick steel plate, friction plate, thin steel plate, friciton plate, thick steel plate etc. The standard friction plates are also directional. The clutch actuator rod in the cover is prone to wear, so smear it in molybdenum grease.

    As for carbs, the carb boots are prone to leak due to age, as are the vacuum lines, vacuum and fuel t-piece o-rings, breather o-rings, and airbox seals. Replace all of them.

    Your carb issue might just be a blocked pilot or stuck float, or it might not. Assuming you have 4 new spark plugs installed?
     
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  14. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Wow, interesting. I thought they would the same as the hondas, with late model mc22(R) being the restricted ones. That's what I get for assuming.

    So then, is the 16k limit only there to limit the bike to 40HP, or is it there to stop the bike blowing itself to bits, considering different stroke. I had a chinese TCI on my mc22 which had the option of disabling the limiter. It seemed to work well enough. Bad idea?

    Yeah, thanks for the pointers re carbs. I checked the boots and all the vacuum bits and the seemed pretty good. I have a spare set of working carbs anyway so it can't hurt to pop those on. My ultrasonic cleaner should (hopefully) turn up next. No more dirty carbs :). I will get around to ordering some litetek kits for the green bike and spare carb set.

    Re the clutch- yip hahaha. Had to redo (took clutch off parts bike) because I was in a rush and didn't read everything in the manual. Will take it for a quick hoon to confirm no more slippage when it stops pouring down.
     
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  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Both the 45HP and 40HP figures are restrictions due to Japanese law at the time. It's no coincidence that all the 250 fours made 45HP max. The 16K rpm thing is what happens when the speedo restriction circuit is open (cut wire or disconnected) or otherwise not working correctly. When working, it will only kick in when the speedo reads around 180km/h.
     
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  16. Frankster

    Frankster NFI Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Re the clutch- yip hahaha. Had to redo (took clutch off parts bike) because I was in a rush and didn't read everything in the manual. Will take it for a quick hoon to confirm no more slippage when it stops pouring down.

    You'll have to excuse Linkin as it's been a while since he owned/worked on a ZXR250. The Kawasaki clutch pack is friction plate, then a thin AND a thick metal plate followed by another friction plate and repeat.
     
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  17. Frankster

    Frankster NFI Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I'm assuming you know the last friction plate you put onto the pack has to be turned one notch. Here's the parts for the C clutch

    upload_2022-6-12_13-10-10.png

    Process

    upload_2022-6-12_13-13-46.png
     
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  18. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yes, I do, thank you!

    Update re limiter: 10k ohm resistor spliced between pink TCI wire and frame fixed the issue. Revs to 19k now. Thanks for the pointers, Linkin.
     
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    Last edited: Jun 13, 2022
  19. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Morning all

    Got the black zxr running, but not nicely. Sounds as if it's on 3 cylinders for the most part, then for a second or two it runs on 4. Choke makes no difference.


    I had the carbs in the ultrasonic cleaner for 30 mins, jets too. New seals all throughout. Im 99.9% sure the carbs aren't the issue as I've put a different set of carbs on the bike, but made no difference.

    I plugged up the vacuum barbs on the carb boots. The original lines had some tiny cracks. As far as I can tell, there are no leaks through the carb boots, but I'll swap the ones from the parts bike onto this one and see if it's any different.

    Confirmed a fat blue spark across all 4 plugs/leads. Plugs are in good nick.

    I attempted to do a compression test, but it seems no matter how hard I try, I can't get the hose to thread into the spark plug hole.

    The engine only has 45k km, so I'm thinking maybe valve clearances? Or am I jumping the gun?

    It's hardly scientific, but I *think* cylinder #2 has the misfire. I splashed some water on the exhaust pipes after letting it idle for a couple minutes, and #2 seems to be cooler than the rest.


    'Green ZXR' happily sitting in the garage now, all working. I'll put the new clutch/heavy duty springs in once they turn up. Should be a couple weeks. Not bad for $1300 and a bit of TLC!
    IMG_20220612_122951_938.jpg

    Looks like the weather might allow for a ride later today! I've only taken it up and down the road thus far

    Cheers everyone!
     
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  20. Krompot

    Krompot Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    My Bike:
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    Stock spec
    Intake: 0.15 ~ 0.24mm
    Exhaust: 0.20 ~ 0.29mm

    in#1: 0.14mm
    in#2: 0.18mm
    ex#1: 0.23mm
    ex#2: 0.20mm

    in#3: 0.15mm
    in#4: 0.15mm
    ex#3: 0.15mm
    ex#4: 0.20mm

    in#5: 0.13mm
    in#6: 0.18mm
    ex#5: 0.13mm
    ex#6: 0.18mm

    in#7: 0.13mm
    in#8: 0.15mm
    ex#7: 0.18mm
    ex#8: 0.20mm

    Valves are pretty dang tight.
     
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