Hey all. Went to work on my bike this morning all started well. Went to start it after work to come home but wouldnt start. During the process of trying to get it started the oil light and nuetral light which usually stays on after turning the ignition and kill switch on kept going out then it went out completely. Bike isnt getting any electrical power as ive tried the lights. Horn and even the park light that comes on with the key turned all the way past off. Dont think its my battery as it was quite charged when i put it on a charger. Any help will be appreciated thanks
If everything slowly died then chances are its the battery slowly dying You need to check things with a multimeter https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/how-do-i-test-my-12-volt-battery-and-charging-system.1794/
Its a 3ln1. I didnt see any fusebox behind the battery. Just a wire from the harnes with a long round fuse Part no 5G2-82151-00-00. Am i just not looking hard enough for the fuse box lol. Poppin into work now just to have a looksie
I C, so its the thing that sits behind the battery and the terminals are connected to it? . Is the fuse just replacable? Does it only have one other skinny wire besides the main - and +
I reckon there might be 2 fuse's in the 3LN1 harness. The 3LN3 has 5 fuses, 4 are in a fuse block behind the battery and 1 other is over toward's the exup controller/regulator Look at #32 in the picture in the link, it's just under the loop near the top of the diagram, then there's #40 in the middle right of the diagram. They both look like 3AG fuses https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-d...zr250-19068/3ln1-768321/electrical-1-13355962
Maybe check the terminal's for corrosion etc where the regulator/rectifier connect's to the main harness, and there's also another connection just in front of the battery where the stator connect's to the main harness, could be corrosion on the terminal's there too. And while you are at it check the battery is earthed to clean bare metal on the frame, use some dielectric/silicon grease on the bare metal to stop corrosion. Give the battery a charge up for a little while, hour or so from a 1A maximum charger, and then check the voltage after it has sat disconnected for another hour. It should be reading 12.6v or slightly higher. Start the bike and let it idle, you should see about 13.4v to 14.4v while it is running, then give it a rev to 3000 rpm's and check the voltage again, shouldn't be putting out any more than 14.5v. If the voltage at the battery is higher than that i an guessing your regulator/rectifer has failed The only other thing to check is that there's no corrosion on the terminal's from the kill switch, and the power that run's through the ignition switch. You'll need to take the tank off to check there.
Problem solved. Was fuse number 32 but couldnt locate it as i didnt see it tucked up under the tail frame lol . Was a 5amp fuse. So was def the wrong one. Can see location of fuse in pic. Thanks guys for all the help
Would it be alright to just use a 10a. Saves buying a 5a as the 10a comes with the fuse holder. Ive used multiple different fuses before on cars with no problems but what i have learnt with motorcyces so far is a different story in some departments
