Rusty Fuel tank - How to fix? , and what fuel filters work?

Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by Javs, Sep 14, 2005.

  1. Javs

    Javs New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2005
    Hey guys its my first post, been a silent viewer of the site for a while now and I have learned quite alot about my bike just by reading everyones problems.

    I have a rusty fuel tank and i was wanting to know what a cheap option to fix it would be, i know how to take it all off as ive done that already cleaning my bike but i heard of a method involving putting a bunch of nuts in the tank with some kind of liquid (im not sure what) and shaking it all around to get rid of the rust.

    Does anyone know what liquids i should use and more importantly what do i use at the end to stop it happening again...

    the rust isnt too bad so the fuel tank is ok, just wanna fix it before i do some permanent damage, also does anyone know what type of fuel line hose i can get that will work also what kinds of fuel filters can i use as an fzr250 filter is a tiny bit of an effort to find, i heard a zzr600 filter will work what else?

    Finally where in sydney do people know where i can get a new air filter as im pretty sure it could use replacing.

    Thanks Guys <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? -->
     
  2. FZR Dude

    FZR Dude New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2004
    The best prevention, always park the bike with as much fuel in it as possible. The bike heats up, the engine is below the tank and heat rises. The fuel gets hot, then when you park it.... Condensation happens.

    As for cleaning the tank. I'd buy a tank coating kit and follow the destructions.

    Just about any fuel filter for almost any bike should work. Could probablly pick one up at an Auto Parts store for little $.

    Fuel line, I'd use some sort of fire resistant coated rubber hose similar to what comes from the factory. Again, parts store.
     
  3. TBone

    TBone New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2005
    one of the best procedures I have ever used for trating a tank goes like this:
    1) Get a strip of mild steel anout 60cmx1cm and rub a magnet in ONE direction so it magnetises (I think I spelt that right)
    2) cut it up into 2cm chunks
    3) drain and remove the tank...dismentle all the attachements and hoses and caps etc... slash some metho in it and let it dry in a dry ventlated area...
    4) buy a MARINE paint primer...
    5) buy now the tank should be dry (as finding a cheep primer took you a day or so) so drop in the metal bits and shake (ware protective gear on your ears!!)
    6) take out all the metal bits.. if you have an air compressor blow the dust out... if not shake it it out...
    7) was the inside of the tank with metho again and again till it runs out clean... let it dry...
    8) plug all holes ecept for the smalest one...
    9) pur the primer in... shake shake shake... pour it out...
    10) let it dry (usualy 24 hours)
    11) now you can store sea water in the tank and not wary about rust <!-- s:) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile" /><!-- s:) -->


    The special tank tratments you buy at the store use a marine primer as a coating and cost around $80 if you put together a kit yourself you will have enough to do about 5 or more tanks... and it will cost you less than one store bought kit <!-- s:) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile" /><!-- s:) -->
     
  4. Spook

    Spook New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2004
    I'm pretty sure i've got the same problem, however i've been a bit lazy and followed the ostrich approach (head in the sand) - ie. if i can't see the rust in the tank, then it can't be there. So i don;t look for it. (This is not advice, by the way.) When i get some time i will try a scaled-down version of t-bone's method.
    I don't run the bike with the tank near empty, because that's when the concetration of rust/crud will be at its highest.
    You should be able to get an air filter from any official yamaha parts store (just tell them the bike model/year) but beware, you will PAY for it. Expect around $80 (its a canister with a paper element, and you have to buy the whole thing, can't replace just the element - but you can clean it with compressed air if its not too rooted).
    Oh and welcome to the site, man. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
     
  5. TBone

    TBone New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2005
    for air filter try doing what Koma did... lol $12 later... and he has a new filter... dut his bike is running rich now... so my thoughts are it needs a bit more tweeking...
     
  6. koma

    koma New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2004
    We did put more foam in than we thought was necessary... so i'll pop the tank off and have a look how it's going. Will remove one of the layers and see if it sorts it all out. <!-- s:) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile" /><!-- s:) -->

    For everyones information it's a few layers of open cell 'spider-foam' or so i've heard it called before. I'll post up a few pics from the conversion next time im in a write-up kinda mood.
     
  7. Javs

    Javs New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2005
    Thanks Guys for the promp reply thats awesome.

    Thats basically what i was going to do with the tank i just wanted to hear it from people that had actually done it before so i will give it a go.

    Didnt think about the heat/condensation so thats for the heads up on that, my tank is on reserve at the moment so im going to fill it up before i ride far...

    also has anyone had a problem and not fixed it over time, i wanna know how bad it is for the engine over time...

    i bascially took my bike apart last week and pulled the tank and fuel lines out and they were definately in need of replacing (starting to crack cuz its 14 years old), also they were more or less red with rust on the inside so i had a look at the final piece of hose that goes into my engine and noticed a secondary filter but very very small and it goes inside the engine a little bit, but that hose was spotless clean so i must be just lucky....

    took out all my spark plugs as im pretty sure it was running on 3 cylinders
    and cleaned the sh*t out of them and i swear my bike has like 5-6 more HP and goes better than it ever has in the entire time ive had it over a year. Shows what some TLC can do....

    Thanks for the welcome guys and for all your help, i appreciate it.
     
  8. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    176
    Likes Received:
    129
    Trophy Points:
    248
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2005
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Mechanical Engineer
    Location:
    Ireland
    My Bike:
    FZR250r and YZF-R1
    an even easier method is to drain the tank,mix up a batch of epoxy resin, **** it in and leave overnight-well it worked for me!!!!
     
  9. Spook

    Spook New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2004
    get in the mood mate! I'm due for a filter replacement and don't really wanna shell out another $85. SOunds like a good solution you came up with. Would like to see how you did it. Where do you get this "spider-foam" from?
     
  10. koma

    koma New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2004
    None other than Clarks Foam & Rubber. ;)
    Supposedly a guy ordered a sample from one of the big airfilter manufacturers, and took it into Clarks to get them to match it. They said 'yeah no problem, i'll get you in a heap of the stuff' and spent about $50 or so - he ended up with so much he'd never have to buy another filter again!

    If i recall, i think it was one of TBone's mates. ;)
    I only got some photo's on my phone... but their good enough to demonstrate how it was done. Still ironing out the air flow guesstimate though, i think it may have one layer of foam too much. It was running perfectly for about a week then started to richen up a bit - i'll pull out one of the layers of foam and see if it sorts it out.

    Either way, i think it's got 3 layers of 12mm foam in there and compressing it down a bit - so taking it back to 2 layers with no compression will probably free things up quite a bit (possibly too much!).
     

Share This Page