Greetings fellow enthusiasts, I will start this thread by saying there was a previous joint thread pertaining to this bike but after recent events you will see this project more than justifies its own thread. For the second time, meet my friend Trey's RVF400 I was over filled with joy to start ripping off the monstrosity that is the Tyga fairing kit. Now as I have had my hands dirty a few times now my friend Trey was brave enough to follow my detailed advice. I helped hand select this bike and my choice was very much dictated by the condition of the engine. When we initially heard the bike I was able to overlook the sound of the dirty carbs and could instinctively tell it had high compression during listening to it running. Before I would even agree to touch this bike I made it a prerequisite that this bike had a "as received dyno" as a starting measurement to monitor the future of this project. Initially when the result was sent to me I was skeptical of the 56.5hp figure, this is 3.5hp more than stock crank spec and as far as I had observed by that point the tyga full exhaust was the only performance modification done. Needless to say I decided to experience this "56hp" first hand and took it for a quick limiter bash up and down the street. The trail of thought as riding was as follows: "Pfft 56hp okay bike lets have at it" *gives it full throttle in first* *Yawn* "from 0 RPM to 10,000 your slower than my bike, how much hp do I have 60?" And then as the revs proceeded to exceed 12,000 all the way to the limiter for the first time since doing 40kph on the across for the first time I for lack of better words sh*t myself as the bike whispered "b*tch you know nothing of speed" *hops of bike shaking in fear*. The good news is this confirmed I picked one with a good engine and may the marathon begin. First things first, bye bye Tyga kit *dusts hands* Wanna see the effort people go to for lame headlights? *gets out wire cutters* Luck hit when the big CBR golden calipers I had that wouldn't fit my bike happened to be a direct bolt on fit. The originals I pulled off, The RVF's master cylinder was leaking fluid when I went to bleed from this defect And the master cylinder that came with the golden calipers had a broken elbow joint By combining parts from both we had a fully functioning master cylinder. New battery, Radiator fluid change, Oil and oil filter change, I used the stab it with a screw drier technique to remove old filter Changed spark plugs. The removed plugs actually indicated a very good fuel air mixture which seemed to contradict the dyno's "alleged" lean diagnostic. By this stage it was time to tackle the more involved mission of the entire intake Whilst dismantling I spotted a pinched seal There was an air filter that might be oem in the sub air filter, not sure but I had never seen one like this before, thought it was worth a photo Carbs taken off This is for me when things get a little more interesting, I was seriously jazzed about comparing the carb internals against the mc22 and seeing what made it tick. The first aid kit Carbs before disassembly Me having the time of my life Bit prior to three bond Bits after Note the needle that had 3 washers on it 1 of those washers was a mixture screw washer I found missing later, the other 3 needles only had 2 washers on them, all of which is not how I would approach carb tuning. I guess we all have our methods of what we believe works and doesn't but on assembly I opted for the OEM setting of 1 washer on the needles. I also took note of the mixture screw setting they used which was all roughly 1 and a 1/3 turns out. All main jets where #108 Carbs where moderately dirty but eventually back in good shape after three bond. Litetek seals added and new carb boots. Synchronizing was a nightmare, eventually I had to accept something was wrong or I had done something wrong as it was not close to possible to accurately balance the carbs, I rarely give up on these types of issues and after numerous tests and prodding I came to the conclusion the the purchased boots may not be OEM as advertised and after swapping back to the previous boots I was quickly on my way to a good sync. This is a photo 5 mins before perfect sync was achieved. Another shameless plug for Litetek and its signature green, used to replace previously pinched airbox seal New air filter Now mind you by this stage (day 2 night) I was getting pretty over it all and just wished it would be magically put back together, during which time I also installed a more suited spring rate spring to my mc22's rear shock Now apart from 1 washer on the carb needles I found 1 and 1/2 turns out to be the ideal spot for the carbs, based on the spark plugs and dyno along with riding the bike I felt that it would be best to stick with the #108 main jets to try preserve the (what I considered) raunchy top end. However if time was no factor and the mood was right I do feel #110 main jets may or may not slightly improve things. After running a can of threebond through the intakes during running and also mashing a tank of nulon full system clean the low & mid range of the bike now out performed my mc22 and so it should right? But don't take my word for it a second dyno will be done in 3 days to verify if my hands are worthy of the vintage v4 masterpiece, much further work is still yet to be done relating to suspension, drive train and other numerous things but look forward to more soon and I hope you enjoyed the project so far as much as I have, it really was a dream to work on.