Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

I think you may have a chance if there's a number stamped somewhere

Otherwise if you don't have success with that search and have another key to another barrel, you can re-arrange the wafers moving them to suit the key you do have - with luck they've used the same depths ordered differently - they're not really precision mechanisms.

The slot(s) through the wafers themselves can also be filed to suit a different key if necessary if rearranging them gets you close

If you remove one and take a look you'll understand more clearly, it's just an exercise in patience.

 

Very interested to know which way you go with this, if you break it down, there's the pump, the plastic plumbing holding the pump to the regulator/high pressure filter.

I'm in a similar situation, intending to get one of the ebay EFI pumps then need to acquire a suitable pressure regulator and plumb them together - I would be at all surprised if that particular pressure regulator is available separately for another bike or car, knowing what to get is the knack

 

That sure beats OEM prices for the whole assembly - the markup on that lot must be absolutely huge!
Obviously you use the Quantum fule pump kits without problems, correct?

 

I'll see if I can pick the lock and use a different cap on the tank but if not I'll take the ignition apart and get filing at them

Sent from my 22101316G using Tapatalk

 

If you can pick the lock on the tank cap, that's an easier lock to rearrange as from memory it's only go 4 wafers versus 6 for the ignition switch.
Not difficult to pick at all.

 

got the MC19 up on the lift. I'll know tomorrow if the aliexpress chain slider actually fits.

 

The weather is starting to get a little better around here so I figured I'd get the MC19 all prepped and ready to ride. No dice. Bike starts and runs on choke but dies without it. That's when I remember that I filled it with E10 and forgot to drain the float bowls when I put it away. Time for a carb service, goody.



The missus is at sea for a little while, so I get to work in the kitchen.



Finally got to test out my homemade carb parts organizer. For once one of my "good ideas" actually was.



Jets weren't horrible, but the slow jets were solid. I hate ethanol in gasoline with a deep and abiding passion.



A quick run through the ultrasonic and the judicious application of some carb cleaner and it should be good to go.

 

Love the carby parts organiser, you should patent it. I want one.

 

Here is my Mikuni TM box with balsa wood inserts.

 

The design was done at makercase.com and I used the laser cutter at my job to cut it out of 1/8" (3mm) MDF. Pretty straightforward stuff. I was just amazed that it actually worked as intended.

@mboddy: Thanks for sharing. If you're gonna do it, might as well do it right.

 

I'm mocking up a shroud to direct air to an intercooler that will be fitted directly over the engine and intake plenum chamber. After a bit of brain strain I decided it was better to go air to air than air to water for the intercooler but also had to minimise air volume which meant the intercooler being on top of the engine with air ducted to it. The mockup is more or less done and I've even made a little tapered cone to go from the turbo straight up to the bottom of one side of the intercooler core. More brain strain still required to figure out the method to use to connect it all. Hopefully my TIG welding will improve so it's not too ugly.

 

short story.....
got hit by a car on the ZX12R... her fault, bikes a write off.. im ok, was fully insured, got money, bought another K1300S.. needs work on suspension... but first oil and final drive fluid.... old final drive fluid was disgraceful.... not bits in it... oil was at least 15,000km old.... also no bits init.....

oh yeah.... FZR250R in background has head off... Gyro has done the valves, should be back together sooooon!!!





old fluid..... yukkkk

 

yeah, i had a K1300R that i put 75,000km on, did all the servicing, and a K1300S did 30,000 on that, done heaps of oil changes, and yeah.... its a bit different.
I was with a riding group that included 10-15 K1300r and s, we concluded that the recommended Final drive oil change of 20,000km was too long, we all did ours every 10,000 and no probs.

gota do front ball joints and will get shock rebuilt..... that will be fun....

 

gotta love the flying brick

 

got the head back off Gyro a few weeks ago, he shimmed it up on the bench and fitted it for me, THANX MATE!! I learnt heaps. I put the rest back on, cooling system carbs etc.
Still wouldnt rev and idle until i turned the fuel off and waited...then.. vroom vroom.
Went and saw my goto motorcycle mechanic who used to tune these when they were imported all those years ago, he said set floats at 12.5 to 13cm. not the factory recommended 9ish.... anyways... so thats what i did, few pics to follow, after getting the first float at 12.5mm you can get a 1mm drill bit comfortably but touching all surfaces between the metal tag and plastic.. (see picture its hard to explain) so did that to all of them and theyre all about 12.5mm.
got the carbs back on, charged the battery after the previous chugging start effort drained it and the jumper battery....
with floats set roughly 12.5 its running and idling nicely, of course the bowls leak now i had them apart, so off with the carbs and waiting on parts.
Cant wait to ride it.....
Disclaimer..... this may not work... may run differently with a 100kg kiwi doing 100km/h on it... stay tuned.....

 

and here what it sounds like, rattle is exup