hi, Fzr 250 2kr 1988... now i'm taking the top end apart, cause i noticed that when i have my exhaust pipes out... and i try to start it, there's some oil comming out of the 1st cylinder throu the exauhst... i have been able to properly remove the cam shafts, i unscrewed 12 bolts and 6 ones located down where the spark plugs are. the "piece" came out with no problem... now the cylinder dosen't seem willing to get out of there, i stopped working and though i'd better ask before doing something stupid...i don't see any visible bolts/screw holding it... question #2- i want to take the valves out 1 by 1 for inspection and cleaning....i removed the little round piece of metal with a magnet, there's a shim underneath it....now how am i supposed to take the rest of it apart ? any pictures please !?!? by the way, the guy who owned this bike before me, certainly did tightened the cam cover bolts too hard, as i took 'em off. there's like a metal i don't know what type it is, it's the ex 2 written on it....it holds the exuahst camshaft.....it's hold by 6 bolts, anyway it's broken...can this be fixed somehow ? or should i buy a new one.. thank you guys !!
ok i watched some videos on youtube showing how to remove the valves, shows up to be pretty simple, with a valve spring compression tool, simply compress the spring, remove 2 retainers, and that's it, the spring can be removed so as the valve...now what about the cylinder ??? still not able to remove it....by the way, the head gasket is the one below or on top of the cylinder ???? cause the gasket on top of the cylinder is metal made !!! i think it's reusable but u doubt it's the original one i don't know....what do you guys think ?
The head gasket is on the top of the cylinders; it is not re-usable. The base gasket is under the cyls; it MIGHT be re-usable, but probably not. The cam caps really aren't replaceable. You cannot buy them separately from Yamaha, and you really shouldn't just grab one from a wreckers. The cam caps include the cam bearing surfaces, and they are line-bored and ground as a matched set with the head. I've seen cam caps for sale on EBay, but the better idea is to buy a head with caps. That said - IF the cam cap bolts in securely, with no distortion, then it may be usable as-is. Make sure you keep the shim buckets / lifters in their proper order. They are clearance-matched to their bores in the head. If you have the head off, make sure you've removed all the hard coolant piping from the cylinder block. Once everything is free, use a rubber mallet to gently 'persuade' the cylinder block to let go.
