suspension

Check out this thread over on the Brotherhood.

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Very easy to wind it up a bit... most FZR's are set to about 3 or 4... and it goes all the way up to 7 (last i checked).

Keep in mind that if you raise the rear your going to get alot quicker tip-in into corners. That may be something your after, or may not like. It can also make the bike quite twitchy at high speeds.

Regardless... to adjust it you need to get something that resembles the stock Yamaha tool (kinda an L shaped tool). The small end of the L hooks into the collar, and then a little bit of force will see it lock into the next setting.

I'd highly recommend only changing one setting at a time to avoid any surprises regarding handling. Also, incase you haven't tinkered around with tyre pressures... once you've found the preload setting your comfortable with.. try adjusting the tyre pressures slightly to vary the 'feel' of the bike. The useful ranges (depending on the tyre) are for the front 28-36 and the rear 30-39. The higher the pressures again, the quicker the tip in will be.

 

is . . ?

is rear suspension for FZR250's are repairable? front suspensions?? is rear suspensions can be recommended for lift-ups?? just asking. thanx <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s --> <!-- s:sniper: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_snipersmilie.gif" alt=":sniper:" title="Sniper" /><!-- s:sniper: --> <!-- s:zzz: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sleeping.gif" alt=":zzz:" title="Sleeping" /><!-- s:zzz: -->

 

is . . ??

i'm juz asking if there's some1 who could PM me for i to know that i have something to do with my friend's rear shox? thanx.

 

I'd set it to 5 to start off with, as given the extra weight and the fact your not a japanese-boy-racer your gonna be bigger and weigh alot more than the bike was designed for.

Having read through this thread again... bumping up the rear preload isnt going to do much in terms of extra leg room. I'm 6'3" and i'm very cramped for leg room... so much so that when riding along the freeway i rest me elbows on my knees every morning. I'm sure i look like a tool but it's quite comfortable.

Let us know how you go though.

 

cheer for the info abou how much higher i can go. i would mind the bike being quicker to drop over. I found (on the merrimbula ride) that i couldn't get it into lean quickenuf to hit the apex on some of the shorter bends on the narrow roads. I hope this helps....

 

If the bike is hesitant about 'falling' into corners, i'd start off by saying check your tyre pressures. If my pressures drop by more than 2psi on either tyre i'll notice it as soon as i start riding hard.

Next up, definitely raise up the rear... but prepare for numb ass the-rape-y on the long flat rides. If i wasnt so lazy i'd probably ride TO the hills on one setting, crank it up to 5 or 6 through the twisties... then drop it back down after. Just to save my ass! (rather bony )

If all of that still doesn't seem quite up to scratch then i'd be looking at the head stem bearings (possibly too tight), or the swingarm bearing and the swingarm joints (the L shaped thing that bolts the suspension to the chassis). The L thing has 3 bearings in it, and in most FZR's 15 years old or greater they tend to be rather shot to sh!t. You can replace all 3 bearings quite easily (DIY job in an arvo), but hunting them down and/or getting the old ones out may be a little tricky if their dry. Otherwise, lubing it up will certainly improve handling.

 

If it were my bike and I tipped the scales at more than 45kg I would have the rear preload at 7 from the word go. Have a look at he sag next time you sit on your bike and there is no way that shock/spring combo set at 7 will have 1/2 the rate required. BTW the tool required to adjust it is a C-spanner(or pair of vice grips or stilsons).

These bikes don't handle well cause of the $2 worn out pogo stick suspension but rather the light bike weight, geometry, low centre of gravity and zero possibilty of breaking traction on the rear with the engine power.

 

The ideal way to set up a bike's suspension for 'all round' riding is to match the sag in the front suspension with the sag in the rear suspension at a standstill.

Recommending someone to crank up the rear preload to 7 is rather foolish unless they know what they're doing. Although all 2-fiddy's are fairly forgiving... a twitchy light weight bike is NOT something i would give someone unless they were very comfortable with riding this sort of bike.

From the sampling i've done with various people on my bike; the average 85kg rider needs the preload at about 5. Heavier and you need to wind it up, or quicker tip-in also requires you to wind it up. As i'm just shy on 10kg lighter than that, for the most part i ride with it set to 5 (i like it a little twitchy) and then for twisty blats i'll wind it up to 6 - possibly 7.

 

ohh yeah I forgot the adjustments made on on a preload only rear shock make such a huge different to the handling of a 250. Especially when the only tyre available a sport touring based profiles.

 

thanks for the tips, i checked out the bushes in the pivots your refering and there is a little bit of play. I think I am going to start with changing the fork oils as im bottoming out. Im thinking of taking the bike off the road for a while to sort it all out. I love the way the bike rides at the moment but it does get a bit sloppy and i think some attention is required. Has anybody fitted any different head stock to their bike?