Tyre sizes and profiles

i have a 140-70/17 on the back and a 110-70/17 on the front, they seem to handle just fine

 

IMHO i wouldnt bother messing with tyre profiles on a 250 bike. The most common reason to change profiles is to increase the tip-in rate and the desire for the bike to fall into corners more willingly.

A far safer and less permanent way of tweaking the tip-in rate it simply increasing the rear preload. Whatever setting your on at the moment, wind it up a couple of notches and that's going to be similar to the feeling you get from changing the profile from 70-80. Not the same, but similar.

Downsides - when you sell the bike it won't be as stable as it used to be with stock tyres; so the poor noob who jumps on will be on a twitch-machine. Fine for you as you've learnt to ride it, but potentially hazardous to a slow-witted learner.

Also, when cranked over in the corners your even less likely to ever get to the edge of your tyre. If you've still got a bit of width left in your front chicken strip (even a couple of mm) then again, no reason to change tyre profiles.

 

AHA! I just worked out what it is in so many of my posts that gets rejected with that error message from the server... i had written 250 C-C and it got rejected, cut off the C-C and it accepted it!?!!

Obviously i'm having to write C-C so it'll accept it, but it's actually 2 lower case c's side by side (no space).

 

250cc? Like that

 

My 2kr is rollin on 100/70 front, and 120/70 rear.... They look tiny compared to my step bro's 110/80 front and 140/80 rear on his CBR <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: -->


Also found out today that my rear had gone flat..... possibly from a slow leak.. <!-- s:???: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt=":???:" title="Confused" /><!-- s:???: -->
Which explained why my rear end started to slip and slide a little around corners even in dry conditions (when I pumped it up today it didn't slip and slide at all in the wet). And I noticed a helluva difference in turn-in <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

 

Everyone needs to make sure that you have valve caps on your valve stems. Your tires WILL LOSE AIR if you don't.

 

I have a 2kr with the same profile tyres. I would like to increase the back to the 130/70. Can you do this on the 2kr? Would there be any ill effects?

 

I just shod Angela's bike with Bridgestone BT 45s. The rear is a 120/80-17. The Dunlop 501 that were previously mounted had the same profile. Seems fine to me.

Apropos, here in the US the Dunlop 501 in the sizes for the 2KR are not imported. Does anyone out there have any availability? If so, at what price?

Thanks,
Scotty

 

juz. . .

juz asking bros, how can add a moving pic to my signature??? i'm exploring the site bro's!!!! thanx.

 

My 2KR has a sticker that specifies 110/90 120/80 or 130/70, but it has a 140/70 on the back and it actually looks like it is too wide for the rim.

The tread goes way down the side ( it looks like a U ) and I have not got it over far enough to mark within 25mm of the edge. It feels ok on the road, but what would I know, I have only been riding for 4 months and its winter in Tasmania.

There is a pic of the tyre on an earlier post -
http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=1013

I was reading LARRYS FZR PAGE http://www.tourtimemedia.com/fzr/
about setting tyre pressures and it quotes trying to achieve a 6-8PSI rise in tyre pressure when warmed up. I presume this is when racing or does it apply to normal road use ????? Can anyone answer that ???

DAVE

 

tyres

i juz noticed that my friend's fzr400's rear tire and rim is wider. can those rim and tire wud fit our 250?? <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s -->

 

Re: tyres

You would have to have some custom spacers machined, if the rim will fit inside the swingarm.

Scotty

 

After getting a puncture repaired, my profile is actual an 80 both front and rear, not 70 <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s --> <!-- s:rofl: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_razz.gif" alt=":rofl:" title="Rofl" /><!-- s:rofl: -->

Once my tires reach the end of their life, I might consider upgrading to a MEZ2 140/70 on rear (i think it was 70 lol) and MEZ4 110/70 on front, the dude at the tire place said they would fit and are a bit better than the arrowmax (which I have now)

 

I would not go for a 140 on a 2KR... I'm not soure about 3LN but eather way wider tyre can sometimes result in very bad handling it makes the profile go up as well...

 

If you go with a 140 rear, the bike will not want to "tip in" as easily.

 

You happen to have a how to on adjusting the pre-load?

 

Ok, here's a very very quick how to... just for you. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s -->
This is assuming that you know how suspension should be set up and that you now want to tweak it a little to suit your riding style better.

If you've got a Yamaha tool kit then you'll be able to find the perfect tool for the job; it's kind of an L shaped thing with a slight rounded kink at one end (a picture is obviously worth a thousand words).

If you get down to the left hand side of your bike, you'll see the shock absorber and spring just infront of the rear wheel. If you look closely at the collar that goes just underneath the spring, you'll see it has notches and numbers. Now, the idea is that clockwise is stiffer (higher number), and anti-clockwise is softer (lower number). Now just twist that collar, and make it clink into the next position (ie. next number up).

 

I think you mean a C spanner