So as some of you may have read ive been having issues with my across breaking down in the high rpm 11k+. When i pulled the top off the carbies and replaced the slides i noticed one of the needles/pins/whatever that pin is called you adjust the mixture on with the clip thing lol was very warn. I ordered a new one. I just replaced it today and its made the problem alot better. It will now rev to about 15krpm but with a few tiny flat spots between 11k and 15k. I noticed the new needle i put it was a bit thicker due to the other ones being worn down from old age. Is it worth replacing the other 3 and seeing if the problem goes away? If they are undersized in thickness what would this cause? Edit: The needles in the black things is what im talking about. Thanks
The others will be worn also .... the one u replaced may have rubbed in one spot to make it look worse but it will be worth doing them all They are jet needles and the brass tube they ride in is the needle jet or emulsion tube amd the 'black things' are the slides. Dont leave your diaphragms out for too long as they will dry out more than they are already . Put them in a ziplock sandwich bag with a bit of silicone spray if the carbs are apart for any length of time Also examine the rubber for any cracks or leaks ..... stretch it just slightly to see any problems but be very careful not to split them.
Thanks for the quick reply. I have already put everything back in the bike so hopefully it wont dry out lol. If the needles are worn what effect does this have on the bike? Thanks again
One last question, how do the other jet needles compare to your new one??? If comparable I would follow Greys advise and get the others replaced. Jet needles do wear as they are constantly on the move, hence the wear. For peace of mind, get some new ones.
Thanks heaps for the advice guys. The other needs look a bit thinner so im just going to replace the other 3 since they are only 12 bucks each. I really hope this fixes it. I love the sound of the inline 4 250 and it just cant rev enough ! lol
fingers crossed.... lol. Ever since i took my bike to the mechanic to get the carbies balanced it takes forever to get a steady idle in the morning and seems to be running rich as fek. Does balancing them affect the idle that much?
It can be trial and error but u start with the stock setting The idle and lower rev range is controlled by the single idle screw/adjuster , the pilot / mixture / fuel-air screws and the pilot jet. Balancing multiple carbys is so the butterfly in each carb opens and closes simultaneously ...in other words the carbs work in sync. My advice to you would be (and Im not being a smartarse) is to pay a fiver to become a premium member and head to the Resources section and read the Across manual (excluding the intricate internal engine section) ...... you will find it will give u a great insight into your bike and save you a load of money as u become a more experienced home mechanic. And of course it will assist you when u work on it and give u settings and stock setups to refer to. And this advice applys to anyone new to bikes ......... and u can be assured us old farts still refer to manuals and documentation when in the shed. And of course theres still the forum to assist u when u are stuck or run into a problem ...as we all do at times.
The pilot screws are on the top of the carbs on the engine side. The stock settings are 1 1/2 turns out. I personally agree with grey about getting the manual. I have done this with all the cars ive owned and worked on aswel as the across.
As above! The more you can learn about how things work the better your understanding of how to adjust them for the best running. Good luck with it.
Still not good havnt really touched it because of the crap weather. Runs like a pig trying to warmup. Literally takes like 5-10 mins to be able to ride it without missing. And still have the top end issues.
