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Wtb: zxr250c airbox

Discussion in 'WANTED' started by DamnitLaverty, May 13, 2017.

  1. DamnitLaverty

    DamnitLaverty Doing things the hard way since '78!

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    really only need the bottom, but I'll buy the whole thing. Anyone willing to ship an airbox to the US? Doesn't have to be perfect, I'm gonna cut it up anyhow.

    Lemme know price plus shipping to 98008, Bellevue WA (the other WA on the map!) USA?
     
  2. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Should we ask what you are doing ? :)
     
  3. DamnitLaverty

    DamnitLaverty Doing things the hard way since '78!

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    Tuning airflow. :)

    I'd like to get an air filter ahead of the carbs on the bike but I'm gonna Swiss-cheese the box for sound and airflow. Want to keep my stock box in good shape.
     
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Airboxes are correctly called still-air boxes. They work because there is a large volume of still air available for the CV carbs. If you introduce more turbulence via holes in the airbox or a larger opening you will only reduce overall performance. The amount of air that your standard airbox flows is not the problem, it is the available volume within. It's all about volumetric efficiency

    If you want to increase performance, bigger custom airbox ($$$), or keihin fcr flatslides (big $$$).

    If you do what @my67xr did with his 3LN coils, ie chucked them in the bin and got new coil on plug units, you have more room for airbox :)

    I'm certain you could easily 3D print a bigger airbox. The trouble is getting it to fit... relocated reg/rec and coil on plug for the ZXR would give you more airbox room.
     
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  5. DamnitLaverty

    DamnitLaverty Doing things the hard way since '78!

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    I've even got a set of COP units sitting on a garage shelf I just found the other day. Forgot I bought them a decade ago.

    My problem is that with the airbox together, the bike goes to like 9:1 a/f. Stock parts, fresh rebuild on the carbs, properly set mix screws.

    Take the lid off and it runs like a Swiss watch. I wanna re-add a filter, but keep the air flow without the issues refilling the box.

    Yes, it's a kludge. And yes, it's doing it wrong. No argument. I'm just done spending money on this thing for a while.
     
  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    What air filter have you got... an aftermarket uni-filter brand one is about $30 AUD... and do you have the little rubber ram-air bit that connects the airbox to the scoop on the left fairing?

    With these ram-air types you will never get a realistic AFR on a dyno even with fans etc simulating airflow
     
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  7. DamnitLaverty

    DamnitLaverty Doing things the hard way since '78!

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    Fresh OEM filter. Yep, I have the boot.

    Totally understood the A/F might be off, but the bike wouldn't break 12k on the dyno and all our eyes were burning from the fuel in the air.
     
  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Weird... my first thoughts are needles & seats/float heights/fuel level

    Otherwise maybe the speedo limiter circuit meant for the 180km/h limit is cutting in for some reason?
     
  9. DamnitLaverty

    DamnitLaverty Doing things the hard way since '78!

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    Nope, removing the airbox lid cured all that ailed me, and it was the only change I made!
     

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