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Help ZXR250 Oil Leak

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by DanoHosko, Jul 13, 2024.

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  1. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Hey guys,


    Hoping someone with a bit more knowledge of the ZXR250 could assist

    I have discovered a bit of an oil leak/drip when the engine is nice and warm, just struggling to pinpoint where it's actually coming from...

    I also have a lot of "lubricant based streaks" on the outside of my rear tyre, I'm not sure if this is chain lube or also oil. I think that it's lube, as I was quite over-zealous with my application of the WD40 branded chain lube.
    Also, the feel of the streaks feel a bit too sticky to be oil.

    1. Oil Leak
    As per pictures, the green highlights where the oil appears: around parts of the stator cover, oil pan, water pump cover, and the side stand. (I'm not sure if it's only running down the side stand when I've stopped or while moving).

    2. Tyre streaks
    Possible that the oil is leaking onto the chain, and being flung onto the tyre. Also note my chain guide/guard at the rear is kinked to the left so isn't really doing it's job.
    I can't see any evidence of the oil getting onto the chain though, i will remove the front sprocket when I get a chance.


    Any ideas where it could be coming from? I'm hopeful it's not the crank case, as the residue around the stator cover is higher than the crank case faces.

    Things to also note:
    - rebuilt the top end very recently (it's very clean, no oil)
    - as far as I know the crank cases haven't been split before


    Thanks as always!

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    DanoHosko, Jul 13, 2024
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  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Degrease with brake cleaner/degreaser (just watch out with degreaser it can swell the radiator hoses) then blow dry with an air line or can of compressed air, run the bike and look around with a torch until you find where it's coming from.

    That said it looks to be from the stator cover, where the grommet for the wires is. On those grommets and the section of gasket/case around the grommet is one place where you actually should use silicone RTV, along with crankcase joins. It will probably need a brand new gasket too, and you'll probably need to spend some time with a razor blade cleaning up the surfaces.

    Just get everything degreased and dry and check for leaks... don't stop if you just found one. I'd keep a close eye on that water pump too. You'll want to know if either of the seals (oil and coolant sides) have gone, the weep hole on the bottom will tell.

    Other points to check: Seal behind the front sprocket, selector shaft seal (tighten the 10mm bolt on the clamp too, I always find them loose across many types of bikes), starter motor o-ring, water pump and oil pump o-rings.
     
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    Linkin, Jul 13, 2024
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  3. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Thanks Linkin!

    Definitely possible there is more than one leak, but lets hope not!
    I did a good degrease last weekend and it seemed like the problem had gone on the following ride, but yeah today it's definitely back.

    Would you expect to get much oil in the stator, or that much coming out from it?

    Also, the seals on the sprocket, selector shaft, and starter motor, do any of these require a crank case split?

    (I'll check the manual lol)

    Cheers!
     
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    DanoHosko, Jul 13, 2024
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  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Stators on most bikes are open to the rest of the crankcase so expect oil. They use it for cooling. Unless you have a workbench and can strap the bike while it's leaning over to the right hand side, you will want to do an oil drain and refill when you do a stator gasket.

    Selector shaft, oil pump and water pump o-rings can all be done without splitting cases. The one that can't is the front sprocket seal. Though, the black ZXR I had as a spares bike had a bad sprocket seal, the bearing behind it was bad and missing ball bearings out of it, so I sold it on at a loss with a spare engine because I couldn't be bothered to fix it.
     
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    Linkin, Jul 13, 2024
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  5. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Ah yeah ok, that's good to know haha, I'll do another oil change anyway, no problemo!

    Ok so fingers crossed it's not the sprocket seal/bearing too, sadly I'm in too deep to bin this one off now

    I'll keep ya posted
     
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  6. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Also, what do you think about the streaks on the tyre?

    I've seen similar on google which people say is chain lube...
     
    DanoHosko, Jul 13, 2024
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  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Touch it, see if it's sticky or oily. Sticky is chain lube, either used too much on the chain, or the type of lube likes to fling.

    I don't like the Castrol chain lube nor the Inox MX9, they fling. I prefer the Motul Road or Factory Line stuff as it does not fling.
     
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    Linkin, Jul 13, 2024
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  8. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yep I'd say it's more sticky than oily, and definitely I've had the WD40 chain lube fling before so I'm thinking the same
    Cheers bud
     
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  9. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Mechanically, is there anything that would cause starter motor failure?
    Like some sort of starter clutch?

    I'm on my 3rd or 4th starter motor now, they have all been second hand of course, over a few years

    One I'm confident failed because the starter relay failed in the On position and probably burnt it out, but otherwise I'm confident electrically everything is Ok

    I haven't taken apart any of the starters yet though to check the brushes, could be as simple as that I guess
     
    DanoHosko, Jul 27, 2024
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  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Is the starter turning? or just going clunk?

    When you say the relay, do you mean the starter solenoid? With main 30A fuse attached. They can go bad.

    Lastly, and no one really ever checks this, is the big fat positive leads from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter motor. They can and do go bad. So consider getting some new ones made up.

    With 2nd hand motors, they are all going to be about the same age and similar levels of wear. What I see when refurbing starter motors is they are chock full of carbon dust, and the brushes are on their last legs.

    Get a rebuild kit for one your many dead starters and rebuild one, if kits are available. Otherwise find an auto leccy who does motorcycles, give him a starter and ask him to find some brushes for it, test and service the starter.
     
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    Linkin, Jul 27, 2024
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  11. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Currently this starter doesn't do anything, going to get it removed from the bike this evening then I'll chuck it straight onto the battery

    Sorry yeah, solenoid/relay, I have replaced it before and this is a new one, tested and it seems to be operating correctly so I'm confident voltage is at least getting to the cable (maybe not to the starter motor, I'll check the cable out)

    That's a good plan, maybe an auto leccy will have more luck finding similar brushes etc
    I dare say you're correct and I'll find all my motors full of crud :)
     
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  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    When the starter clutches go bad, the starter motor will turn but the engine won't crank, accompanied by usually worrying noises from the starter clutch. They are usually behind the flywheel so it's a flywheel off job. Inline 4's are pretty easy on starter clutches, it's usually big V-twins where they have problems (Ducati and Harley mainly, but even Honda and Suzuki too)

    Just as a test, turn the ignition on and use an old pair of needle nose pliers you don't care about, and short the two posts on the solenoid. If it cranks the engine then you have a problem with the starter button or switchblock connections, sidestand or clutch lockout circuits.

    If you have a meter you can do a voltage drop test. Set meter to volts, go from positive battery terminal, follow the lead to the solenoid, other end of the meter there. Hit the start button and get a reading on the meter. The reading is the amount of voltage that is lost in circuit resistance. Generally you want 0.5V or less throughout the whole circuit. Do the same test from the solenoid to the starter.

    If you have lots of voltage drop then the positive cable is the problem.

    You can also always try a bit of percussive maintenance on the starters - give it a few medium taps with a soft faced hammer and try again.
     
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    Linkin, Jul 27, 2024
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If you want to have a go at replacing the brushes, I haven't found any brush kits for the ZXR250s, but on the OEM parts listing you can buy part number 11046-1724 which includes the starter motor end cap, post, brush plate and brushes.

    Other than replacing those bits, the only other thing you really do when rebuilding a starter is clean it out and check the bearings/bushings and replace them if they are bad.

    I like to get the armature in a lathe and skim the copper contacts where the brushes ride, but at work I only had a cheap chinese lathe and it was about as accurate and doing it with a bench grinder
     
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    Linkin, Jul 27, 2024
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  14. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Good stuff to know!
    I actually just got the starter off now, if I spin the end it sounds quite rough and crunchy, and straight onto the battery yields no movement and no sparks even, so must be open circuit inside the motor

    Luckily I'm pretty good on the electrical stuff usually so I've checked everything else already before getting to this point ;)

    Admittedly I didn't do the volt drop checks but just checked if I was getting at least some voltage where required

    I'll chuck the spare motor on and get that tested in the next hour :)
     
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  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Pull your bad one apart and post pics of the brushes and the armature. Check the bearings and bushings. Don't lose any of the shims if it has any.
     
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    Linkin, Jul 27, 2024
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  16. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Ah this is great news if they are available still, should get me out of the mud!
    We do have a lathe in the shed so I'll handball that job to the housemate haha
     
    DanoHosko, Jul 27, 2024
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  17. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Well, after touting my electrical skills, it seems that the motor is definitely cooked, but also the solenoid might be on the way out too, I'll get a new on chucked on tomorrow and I reckon we'll be sweet!
     
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  18. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Well took a little longer to get the parts than planned, but i changed out the shaft seal and gear selector seals.
    Definitely feels like the seal is grippier on the driveshaft now

    Got it all running, with my starter woes slowing me down too...

    But yep definitely leaking from the stator cover! Waiting on a new gasket before i pull the cover off, I don't think think this one is too old so hopefully I can salvage it and just silicon around the leaking spot

    Screenshot_20240809_141325_Gallery.jpg

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    DanoHosko, Aug 9, 2024
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  19. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    New gasket and silicone RTV on the grommet the whole way around where it touches the cover and the gasket should sort it. A little rtv on the crankcase joins too.

    Sometimes the grommets get old and start leaking oil past the wires so a thorough clean and thin coating of RTV where the wires go through the grommet would be appropriate.
     
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    Linkin, Aug 9, 2024
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  20. DanoHosko

    DanoHosko Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Easy done! Cheers bud!

    On a side note, to save me starting another thread...
    Have you noticed the wiring diagram in the C manual doesn't match the loom?
    I'm thinking maybe the manual is for a later C model, as it lists accessory fuses, which im certain don't exist, at least not in the three looms I have here...

    The junction box seems to list O/G (orange green wire?), and BR/W (brown white), BR/BK (brown black)

    I don't have these on any of my looms

    Screenshot_20240809_204935_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
     
    DanoHosko, Aug 9, 2024
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