Well of course my glorious run on the zxr had to come to an end. Just went to flick the starter, and the starter didnt turn over. Tried a few more times but it kept locking, felt like a stick through a bicycle rim. Got the jump starter, and with a few more tries it actually started but sounded like it was missing a cylinder. Felt the exhaust pipes, the two inner pipes are warm, two outer pipes are cold. Checking plugs as we speak, may even get it fixed but tonight but thought id start a thread sooner rather than later. I hope it hasnt skipped a tooth on the timing chain, is that a likely explanation? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated! Cheers guys!
There's probably lots of possibilities but whats fresh in my mind is, do you think she might have flooded & filled those cylinders & wouldnt turn over due to a full combustion chamber. It's happened to me & the result was a couple of fouled plugs in the end & luckily didnt bend anything. More info will be helpful figuring it out.
Yes that has happened to the bike in the past, a stuck needle in the carb. Its a possibility but to happen on both carbs at the same time? Also there was no smell of petrol. I cleaned the outer plugs which looked foul and the bike still didnt sound/run properly. It starts fine now, but is definitely only running two cylinders. Thanks for the input!
check for spark by earthing a plug in the socket against the head (don't not hold the lead), you may have dropped a coil as the first coil fires cyl 1 and 4
You wont smell fuel as the overflows are all connected & piped up high & don't overflow. Being all connected if one floods then the others cop a bit as well, probably hence the 4 dirty plugs. It's probably not the needle & seat but other o rings & rubber seals in the carbs. EG the most important one of all is on the seat insert, make sure its a very tight fit, if its loose then the needle seats but it flows around the insert unchecked. Do a complete rebuild & use the Lite Tek kits A & B with the Viton rubber & start there. Buy a set of plugs $4 ea & happy days. Tidy up all the ends of your high tension leads & maybe replace the plug caps, all available on ebay & cheap. Replace the fuel filter at the same time & your well on the way to peace of mind & anyone can do it at home. A few of us here have just been through all this in depth & have had great success (most of us)
Thanks for the replies! I checked spark with the plug laying against the motor and both outer plugs were firing correctly. I also got around to replacing my shitty stator too which has been on it's way out for a while now. So it looks like I'll be taking a venture down the Lite Tek path. I've never done anything to do with carbs before, so this could get interesting.
agreed mate I'm in the middle of a carb overhaul which i started a month ago! then there is GI's Fizzer...
Don't be afraid, carbies are dead simple, follow the Lite Tek instructions & all will be well. The only thing I can recommend is not to play with the float heights, check them to a reference mark like the mating face & check that they are all the same, tilt the carby until the float just holds against the seat as opposed to sitting down on it, you just want the minimal weight of the floats just touching the needle then take the measurement. If it's always gone well then leave them alone, if one is out to the rest then match it up if necessary. Make sure you use new sharp screwdrivers that fit properly on the jets & fuel bowls or it'll get ugly. Buy a can or 2 of carby cleaner & spray the **** out of everything inside & out, blow off with compressed air as well just to be sure, be thorough & take your time, it's like doing surgery, clinically clean & neat. It will take a few hours by the time you break the bank apart, clean up & re rubber then re assemble, don't rush. Good luck.
I agree as above. Not so hard once you get into them, and after the first it's just a repeat process. Some small trays are handy to stop bits rolling away and getting lost.
Somewhat of an update. While waiting for the kit in the mail I decided to pull the carbs and get familiar with them. Kudos to kiffsta for the carb cleaning thread, very good instructions. Also just having the carbs in my hands i was able to understand everything a lot better. When i pulled the carbs, i was surprised to see no airbox to carb seals.. odd. Also looking at the litetek kit i can see where 3 of the seals go, but not all of the little o rings. Does the kit come with good intructions? Cheers again guys!
The little o-rings go in the plastic pieces that are between each carb when you completely separate the carbies, you will notice by the different sizes
Just compare/check the numbers in the bags of rings in the kit to these schematics/part numbers and the Litetek page http://www.megazip.ru/zapchasti-dly...5602/zx250-a1-641598#g8577625/carburetor-assy http://www.megazip.ru/zapchasti-dly...5602/zx250-a1-641598#g8577626/carburetor-assy http://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Kawasaki_ZXR250.html
Okay, this may sound incredibly nooby, but how do you change the pilot screw seal? The litetek site just shows the pilot needle with the spring, washer and seal.. Do you just pull it out? I get where the float bowl o-ring goes, as well as the air box seal; pretty simple. I had a squiz at the float valve seat o-ring when I was having a play, so I know that one too. I'll be able to do the outside fuel o rings etc I reckon, but where is the choke plunger dust seal? I can't seem to find it in the exploded view. I know the kit comes with instructions, but I wouldn't mind some extra knowledge! Cheers guys!
Choke plunger is on this diagram ... 16012-1052 (16012A) http://www.megazip.ru/zapchasti-dly.../zx250-a1-641598#g8577627/detali-karbyuratora
Undo the pilot screw all the way, the screw and spring will come out, then turn carbs over and give them a tap on a flat surface, then the metal washer should fall out, I then use a jewellers screw driver set to dig the old rubber seal out. When reassembling , put the spring on the screw , then metal washer and litetek viton seal on, insert and screw the way in until you feel resistance, then back off 2.5 to 2.75 turns out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk