I have no idea how it's wired up, all I know is when she wants to work, she works beautifully (atleast at idle.). I know that the coils I have are from a C model because I bought them off Kifsta. And I know my rear suspension is from a Honda. and my fairings are held together by plastic weld, bits of fibreglass, zip ties and a single load bearing sticker. My bike has problems, but I love her anyway. But as they say, desire isn't driven by the heart, the mind or the wallet. It comes from another place. It's created by the smell of burnt fuel under full throttle and the look a bike gives you when you're washing it alone at night. As for the seal kit, I just ordered one, how long does it usually take to ship to Aus?
I just received a Litetek envelope and it took 7 days to country NSW Youre now a Premium beer , so u should be able to download . Your bike sounds like mine and half the others on here .....where would the fun be if they all were perfect cheers mate
That's not too bad, hopefully that should solve the only real problem I have left. Cheers for the premium. Would A model fairings fit a C model bike? I found a set of fairings that are the same color as mine but they're for an A model, and I like the duel headlights. Also, where do you guys get all your parts from? I've had to buy a complete bike just to get spares.
Please check your fuel supply, your symptoms are exactly what I had when my petcock was blocked and wasn't flowing correctly. Once you clean the petcock screen make sure you replace your inline fuel filter (if you don't have one, get one, cleaning carbs is a PITA, a replacement filter is less than $5 and 10 mins work)
yeah, my petcock is clear and clean, flows fuel like a champ, I have no inline fuel filter, but i think it's time I invest in one. The filters on the petcock are pretty clean, they're a bi brown, but they seem to be in relatively good condition. I'll test everything once I get the seal kit and an inline fuel filter
That's definitely the way to go about it! Do it all right to save you trouble in the long run. Unfortunately the A model fairings don't fit properly The tyga kit does though
about $1200 direct from them on their website. compared to $1300 from ebay ripoffs. Or Omar at xcite bikes might be able to hook up a better deal.
I reckon you can find another decent zxr for that sort of money. Plus, i like the 90s look of the front. What id really like to do is get a tyga ducktail and respray the whole shebang
Good news everybody. Turns out the local Honda Dealership has a full seal kit for the Keihin D32's. So in my impatience I got one from there too. That should arrive on Tuesday. Hopefully all of that should solve the stutter.
Well, tuesday came and the parts I ordered were delayed by a few days. But I was thinking about it and I think it might also be the coil packs causing the 4k stutter. Wierd thing is when the bike is cold, When she warms up, things get a bit dicey and choppy.
One step at a time mate, if after the carb rebuild it still does it then you can rule your carbs out.
Well, I was hoping the carb kit was going to come, but apparently it didn't come today, so I have to wait till monday. I was trying to think of other reasons the bike might be running badly, and I came up with the ignition coils being bad, or maybe a bad earth somewhere. I still haven't gotten around to checking either. -EDIT- Also thought about the float levels, is there a way of adjusting those?
Hi wade the manual carb section explains how to do it, it would be good to set at the same time as the seal kit. It involves bending the little metal tabs on the floats. But it is quite precise.
OK. The seal kit come today and I've mostly reassembled everything. But I' still lost on the float height issue. I sat the carbs on the slide cover, and angled them so there was no compression on the spring. I gave it a measure and it turned out to be about 15mm. Now I know the stock is supposed to be about 13mm, but because I've got bigger jets and a more free flowing exhaust, wouldn't that mean i have to adjust the floats differently?
To my knowledge the float height just sets when the needle lifts to allow fuel into the the floatbowl for the jets to pickup from. So as close to the stock setting as possible is the way to go. As for your bigger jets, seen as they are a model jets and you're engine is an a model as well they are stock jets . Sounds like you're nearly there.
I'm just a little confused. I'm 99% sure shes running rich, so by lowering the float measurement, wouldn't that increase the amount of fuel in the bowl?