I made up a battery holder and dash mount for my MC21. Yes, the welding is punishable by death amongst skilled tradespeople but I thought it ain't half bad for a first attempt at welding. It's by no means perfect but good enough whilst I set up everything. I need to get a connectors set ($50) so I can plug into the 12V power originally to the backlights of the old speedo to power the trail tech unit. Eventually I'm gonna have a lithium battery, the PGM and the dash all mounted up front. But I need to get another wiring harness to shorten first. Ideally I'd make it out of aluminum but I have no chance in being able to weld with that so I'll just make it out of whatever I can find and drill holes everywhere to lighten it. As long as it's the same weight as the speedo cluster was originally, I'm happy.
Some video of it in action. The way they say to read the tacho signal is to wrap the wire around the sparkplug wire. It's a near-foolproof system but I'm gonna try the other way of connecting to the coil so it's more of a factory install. I also can't install the speedo because the magnetic bolt that replaces one of the brake disc bolts is too big. Now I need to get the surround lights to complete the look and have an oil warning light most importantly.
So bike has gone up for sale hoping it doesn't and can come up with cash to race next year But will see just wanna say thanks to everyone who followed race page and support if I can I will be out racing next year✊!!!
Mine is held on with high temp silicone sealant. Gasket was goneburgers.... I'm looking at getting one of these, Could you do be a little favour? The rep tells me the graphical can be made to read up to 20,000 rpm. Can you see if you can get yours to do this? Simply wrap that wire for the tacho around 2 plug leads if its auto-ranging, thus thinking its doing 2x the rpm it really is.
I've got the Trail Tech Endurance on my bike. It came with a few magnets including one meant to replace a disc bolt like you mentioned and a smaller one that is meant to be glued onto the brake disc. I used the smaller one with epoxy. Works well so far.
The unit can read up to 20k RPM but the graphical display only goes up to 12k. I figured for the NSR, the red line is at 12k so it's close enough. I plan on making my own dash eventually so then I'll use it on another bike. The instruction manual says it only goes to 12k: http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/computers/vapor/vapor_instructions.pdf Check out page 4. I'll have a look on mine though but I didn't see it last time. I noticed the increments go from 9 to 12 as well which is a little annoying. Yeah, I was thinking of just finding another bolt that will fit and gluing the magnet onto the end of it. As for right now I don't really need the speedo though, just happy it's installed and working.
Went for a quick blat with @DougFella, "2x zxr250's on the road at the same time that's ludicrous" you say. Well it just happened! I have deduced that mine is an ultra SWB ZXR compared to Doug's bad after listening to my slip on all morning he now wants one lol, they both performed well, I took the corners pretty easy as I'm unsure about the front end due to old tire and leaky fork seals. Both bikes accelerated freely and pretty evenly and we had no problems. Other then abit of a sting at canungra There were police in hi vis with clipboards everywhere taking details of bikes riding in groups and so on. We snuck away as unnoticed as we could lol. Cheers for a good Sunday @DougFella
I removed the last of the crappy fake carbon fibre stickers from the blue bike. Why do people put this junk on bikes!??
Yes, stickers are stupid but what is even more stupid is putting real carbon fibre cladding on aluminium parts, frames spring to mind. I have seen in several forums where owners have made home made pieces to cover frames and swingarms. They then offer to sell it to other bike owners. Carbon fibre is extremely reactive with aluminium due to galvanic corrosion. It is a bad combination, and this problem is well known in the aircraft and boat world. Motorcycle frame spars are often only 3mm thick. A recipe for disaster I think. "The issue with using carbon fiber materials for fastener applications is that carbon fiber is electrically conductive, thus making it more susceptible to galvanic corrosion. When coupled with a fastener, bolt or nut, the situation worsens. Aluminum and plain steel, when coupled with a carbon composite, are both highly susceptible to galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion with carbon fiber materials has been an issue for decades, but experts have yet to produce a universal solution for the problem." source http://provenproductivity.com/galvanic-corrosion-carbon-fiber-materials-2/ cheers Blair
Fired up my NSR and I've began to notice it runs a little off. The LHS (Top) cylinder seems to be misfiring or running lean, but had plenty of smoke so hopefully at least it won't seize. The RHS expansion chamber was hot and the LHS chamber was warm, and I could hold my hand on it. It seems to run better at higher RPMs. Taking off is a struggle too. The carb is clean as well, did it the other day So! Tomorrow I'll do a compression test. The engine sat for 10 years so it wouldn't surprise me if a seal has gone in it. It's gonna be a pain if I need to take the engine out and put the original wet clutch one in. In the current engine though, I stuck a borescope in the bottom cylinder and there is some scoring but also hone marks so hopefully it's not in too bad shape. What does everyone think about reusing pistons? I normally would replace them on my dirt bikes regardless of wear (doing a top end) but NSR's pistons are $128 each on slipstream, and rings are $65 each. Luckily the gaskets aren't too bad. Tyga has better prices so I might go through them but still fairly pricey.