what concerns me is the metallurgy used to create these parts, if it was a lopey single cylinder dirt bike with a 5k redline, yeah maybe, but something spinning at 18000rpm, I'm not convinced it will hold up. I have been bitten too many times with inferior quality Chinese parts, so now I try and chase down OEM wherever possible. I bought some windscreen bolts the other day, I put my allen key in there to tighten them and the head spun off. I was like, that is just SMIC - **** Made In China Chinese stuff is good for bling parts, as for engine internals, I am still a skeptic
Agreed - the loss of a valve head from the stem, to my mind, has enormous potential for damage - head, piston, conrod and perhaps even crank
Good write up BTW I used oven cleaner and toothbrushes to clean ring lands which had carbon so baked on that the rings couldn't move. Spray on, scrub pretty much straight off - i.e. Don't soak, gets rid of it all without the need for scraping ad any potential for damage to ring lands
RE brake rotors- there is a large difference between chinese stainless and the metalgear stainless- you pay for what you get.would i buy a chinese rotor again- no way/.
the chinese stainless rusts while you look at it while the metalgear stays polished. the chinese stainless rear disc has not warped but the brake pad polishes it on every ride. offsetting that was the price-40 for the chinese or 198 for the metalgear.in hindsight i should have spent the extra.
Hmm, I've bought chinese discs and never had one rust. The MG stuff is imported from China, I know this for sure. It's just a matter of where from.
Out of interest which seller did you purchase them from? I'm hoping to be able to discern between the good and not so good products and perhaps this will help others. I am planning to get some 300mm discs for the fizzer to complete the front end conversion and just can't see myself stumping up for MG discs ATM
I guess some of the cheaper disc's must use 304 stainless (16-20% chromium, semi magnetic) and the better disc's are 316 stainless
I'm considering the wave pattern ones for weight reduction. I'll be hitting any sellers up for a list of details and specs come the time
I can't really see any reasons why 316 would be noticibly better than 304 though, the Mo addition to 316 is more for corrosion resistance...? LPMOTOPARTS is where I got the last couple from, seem OK. With that said I've sold both bikes which had them. But they certainly didn't behave any differently to what I've seen before with OEM etc. But that's just my experience doesn't mean others aren't seeing other things depending on how they are made.
Just did a quick read to refresh my memory, I'd speculate that 316 will exhibit less surface rust, but not by much because the protective Chromium Oxide layer will be constantly scrubbed off by the pads (I could be wrong on this). Mechanically they are very close, so both, if good quality, should bring a bike to a stop.
Back in the 1970's every Jap bike had stainless (don't know the number) because they didn't rust and look dirty, but they didn't work when wet either (bloody dangerous mostly). Everybody who rode hard changed to cast iron disc like the Euro's had so they would work. The stainless disc on the modern bikes must be a different mixture as they DO work in the wet.
Yes, I agree with that. if they're rusting too much/too quickly it's probably because of a low quality composition - which can vary depending on who makes it. If you live by the ocean etc I'd be chasing 316 instead, for example.
some light reading, well not really, all I can say is all hail the metallurgists, pretty much every engineering development is in some part, based upon their work http://www.jfe-steel.co.jp/en/research/report/012/pdf/012-11.pdf
It's a crapload of pages so will take me a while... for the time being anyone who is interested can ask and I'll post up relevant sections.
Here are the main specs, @kiffsta http://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/fz250-phaser-main-specifications-jp.238/
