Almost all of them are like that. Only the pink/white 3LN6 we have has the original projector headlights like your photo.
I don't know what happened to my post then? I just replied then but when the screen refreshed it was gone. But i wrote, That's strange, in the 3LN supplement part's catalogue there is only 1 part number for the FZR250 3LN3, 3LN5, 3LN6 and 3LN7 headlight, and it's a twin bulb projector # 3TJ-84310-00 The new Led H4 is all good now, the light give's a straight line across the top, i didn't have the H4 retainer clip done up properly The new light's are awesome,they show up so much more of the road, and reflect the reflective painted line's and post reflector's so much more than before;. Really stoked with them, and they don't need to be modified either
The Led H4 ? From this guy in china, he let me have it $2 cheaper with his make an offer price, lol, still it's $10 more in my pocket compared to buying from ebay aus http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Philips-...302090?hash=item43fbae224a:g:SrkAAOSwImRYdJVS
I don't like the high beam on my globes. It shines far too high. Maybe an issue with mounting I'll have to look. The low beam is amazing though, and without a doubt the best mod Ive done to my bike so far. I will get some pics tomorrow night to compare to yours.
Ok, so it would need modifying to suit Led's. I reckon there'd be a simpler way of doing it than the bottom diagram though. Modified wiring to run Led H4'S
Yea I dont remember anyone saying it was complicated on the LC FB groups ..... I know u have to do it different when installing LED light bars and driving lights because of the neg switching
Just wired up my spare Led H4 backward's like the standard 80 series wiring diagram, and they work that way too I connected the Negative terminal on the led to positive on the battery, and then earthed the low beam of the led to the negative side of the battery, then tried the high beam, it lit up the correct high/low beam both time's
So the LED's are about 20 watts and it appears that they advertise them as 90 watt so customers will understand how bright they are. Is that right?
I'm not 100% on this, but the pair of low beam's is 90w, so i reckon they'd be about 45w each, they each draw the power of a 20w bulb Each H4 has 6 led's for low beam, and 6 led's for high beam so i guess that's where they get 180w from, EG 2X 45W low beam's, 2X 45W high beam's I also have a 28W led spotlight which i've used on a dirtbike, that only draw's 1A with the engine running, so that's on par with the 45w led's drawing 1.4A I used to have a pair of 150w aircraft landing light's in my Mazda RX4 for the high beam's, these led h4's put out at least twice as much light as a pair of 150w sealed beam's and the led light is much cleaner
I went for a ride yesterday with my uncle on his Virago and a mate who was riding his 2008 Honda Fury 1300. We started off at Marion and headed down south to Yankalilla where we had lunch, then went a down a bit further south around the coast through Delemere and through Victor Harbor then came back home. It was a 218km round trip, 30% was @ 60km/h, 30% @ 80km/h and 40% @ 100km/h. Interestingly my uncle and i spent most of the time waiting for the Fury to catch up to us, must be due to the bikes' long wheelbase I still have about 4.5 litre's of fuel left in my tank, it's about 1/3 the way down the fuel filter of the 'On' position fuel pick up in the tank. It'll be interesting to see how many km's i can get out of this tank! If going by the above usage i should get about 327km's, which equates's to 27.25km/litre, nice! .The Keyster kit and some tuning ( along with the coil on plug ignition coil's etc) has really helped my FZRs' economy
Thought i'd have a go at balancing the carb's today. tried using the flow gauge's and i couldn't get a smooth reading, the ball bearing was jumping 15mm up and down So i made up a quick balance tool using a plastic bottle with 4 hole's drilled in top, some tygon tubing and some red water (food colouring) Connected it all up and started the bike, 2 tube's quickly filled with water and almost went over the top, So i fitted some screw's into the bottom of each tube to restrict the flow, started the bike again and there were a bit slower to fill but still were close on going into the engine. I ended up drilling 5 hole's in the lid of the container and the water level sat steady at about 100mm above the lid with the engine running, so then i could adjust each screw between the carb's to what i needed It only took about 15 min's to play around and get them all close, the difference was big when they were close, i had to drop the idle speed back down by about 400 rpm's I noticed that 3 of the plastic slide's were all moving evenly with the engine running, but number 3 wasn't moving at all After balancing them they are all synced quite well Next thing i need to do is adjust the mixture screw's again once the bike is at operating temp after a ride Took it for a quick ride and the acceleration seem's better again, i don't need to be feathering it off the line at 3000-4000 rpm any more Here's my home made carby balancing/sync tool, think i'll swap the water out for some 75w gear oil next time i use it, there were a few tiny drop's getting sucked through into the manifold's, but not enough to worry about
I bought a good airbox and seat for the FZR off Andy and had it posted to me, and also picked up a new old stock set of airbox boot's from ebay. They all arrived and i've cleaned up the airbox and fitted the boot's. Also pulled the vinyl cover off the seat and repadded it with some foam, then used some black vinyl i found on a pile of hard rubbish a while ago to retrim it My original seat get's a bit hard after a long trip so i thought i'd find another and retrim it with some extra padding to use for long ride's New seat foam trimmed to suit New vinyl cover fitted and ready to go back on my bike (will fit the airbox bottom at the same time)
Yeah it did, thank's mate ! Seat came up good too I'll take it for a ride tonight and see how it goes with the new airbox boot's and seat Original seat New seat cover on with some extra padding
Took the tank off this morning to swap the airbox base over, i was looking at the air filter wondering how much life it has left. I had an old K&N filter sitting in my shed that i'm never going to use so i thought i'd modify it and make it fit the FZR Cut the original paper/cloth filter out and trimmed up the K&N panel element to fit in the original filter surround. Trimmed down to suit Fit's in quite tight so i'll give this a try and see what it does. I still need to run a bead of urethane around the outside so only filtered air can get through