The shock spring will be under a lot of tension, so you will need the right spring compressor to hold it while you unscrew the top mount from the shaft. That swingarm looks to be painted. Would need to paint the whole arm to look presentable.
The front and rear section's of the frame are raw cast, the centre flat section's of the frame and swing arm are originally a brushed alloy finish it all get's welded together, dressed then clear anodised. You could try wiping it over with some all purpose thinner's and a couple of clean rag's to get that paint off
It is a pretty easy process to remove the spring.... you do need to compress the spring and the bottom spring mount is split and fits into a groove in the piston rod. As it is gas filled shock absorber I am not sure if you are able to disassemble any further for plating etc... but you can get in there and clean it all up... and there are some good metallic paints that closely resemble Cad plating... might be an option for you. The swing arms are painted (it comes off with paint stripper) in what appears to be an aluminium paint...plenty of options for that out there too.
Eastwood does a Cad paint system, the 4x aerosol can's are $125AU though. http://polishnparts.ie/paints-and-coatings/ There'd be a lot of other company's that do it too Or the Silver Cad finish, this give's the part the appearance of silver cad with a hint of blue, $30AU And Aluma Blast is the closest paint that you'll get to give you a 'new' aluminium finish http://polishnparts.ie/eastwood-aluma-blast-paint-aerosol-340g/
Cheap in the states .... but shipping usually kills it http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/06-Yamah...453236?hash=item1ec06dffb4:g:1IkAAOSw44BYgXIW
keep your eyes open on both ebay and gumtree - they do come up, and going price is in the $120 - $160 range
That one from the US probably would have been OK on price... no time to get an estimate on shipping... all I need is weight and size.. I use a couple of different services from the US. I must keep an eye open for the same thing then.. that would look good on the SRX when it finally gets built.. .
Nice work @beano. Did you see my carb rebuild guide? And you are right I made these kits for people like us who want to do a comprehensive job. Cheers Blair
yup, printed it out and had it beside me the whole time, absolutely invaluable, the only issue i had with the kit was i couldn't get the choke seals on properly as they were too tight, but the originals were ok so i just left them on. now if we could only get the needle situation resolved we'd have our fzr's running forever is the fix still being worked on?? i think i read somewhere before and im sure it was on @GreyImport fizzer thread where he cleaned up the frame nicely with a brillo pad, but that threads like 50 pages long now and cant be arsed trawling through it again at the moment. back to the shock situation and i have spring compressors here already from changing shocks in the car so might just clean it up as best i can and see how it goes, the r6 mod does look tempting but will have to look into it a bit more, not sure on modifying the dog bones as it may effect the geometry of the bike, will have to look into it more.............
Yes, the fix is still on the agenda but Christmas and a spending binge has delayed my lathe purchase.
Got some goodies in the post there over the last week or so, got my fork seals and headstock bearings also decided to go with the r6 shock in the end, so just waiting for that to be delivered and can start building the bike up again, so just a few questions for those in the know. What weight for oil do ye recommend to stiffen the front up a bit?? i had a look thorough the service manual supplement and found the following specs: im assuming google translate is correct and i can say the following: oil volume - 390cm oil level - 112mm from top fork spring length - 559.6mm hopefully will get the time to go at them this week and have a rolling chassis for next week, bike is looking a bit sad at the moment:
i have another question now regarding the headstem bearings, the ones that i ordered are the tapered type whilst the stock bearings are the loose ball bearing type. i have previous experience changing tapered headstock bearings in my R1 so just want to double check something before i start. as seen in the pic below, the original ball bearings sit on a seal that is approximately flush with the top of the frames cast, thus when the bearings are placed they would be above the frame so to speak. would i be right in saying that i then remove this seal and drive the new tapered set inside the frame so it sits flush with the top of the casting?? i have measured approximately the depth of this collar inside the frame tube pictured above and it seems to correspond with the height of the new bearings that i was supplied so im reasonably sure that the new set does in fact go inside rather than sitting on top like the old set but just want to be sure before i start. The bearings i did previously on the R1 have a nice shoulder inside the tube that you drive the replacements into hence the confusion on my part.
There is a shoulder under that bearing cup (you can see it in photo) that the new tapered cone will sit against.
thanks murdo, i was just really unsure as to having 1/3 of the bearing sitting proud above the headstem, i've never seen that before so just needed my mind set at ease in case i got the wrong bearings. so anyway on with the pics!! [/URL ] [/URL ] However, my c-spanner is too big to tighten up the crown nut to seat the bearing properly, so I’ve ordered a new one, so while I was waiting i decided to tackle the fork seals as one of them was weeping pretty badly and as soon as I had the dust cap off could see that the oil seal had previously been put in backwards hence the leak, the fork oil that came out was pretty bad and resembled muddy river water!! Also there was a washer missing between the oil seal and the bush on the same fork. On the upside, the previous owner had at least tried to do something about the fairy soft suspension and there were extra spacers put in to help stiffen up the spring, I then added 15w oil to the mix to try help stiffen it a bit more. [/URL ] [/URL ] [/URL ] Drove in the seals with a homemade seal driver [/URL ] And all done.
and just to back up a bit i said id throw up a few pics of the rear end i did a few posts ago [/URL ] Obviously you can’t tell these things from the outside but as you can see from the pics I was pessimistic as to the state of what I would find inside, but it turned out the bearings were in really good nick, spun nicely, not too loud and didn’t feel gritty at all, so I just cleaned them up and re-greased them. [/URL ] [/URL ] then moved on to cleaning up the shock, I cleaned it up as best I could, but after scrubbing off all the muck it turned out to be pretty goosed. unsurprisingly for an almost 30-year-old shock the chrome had worn off the rod and it had begun to rust. [/URL ] Ready for reassembly