Do you have new crush gaskets under each pipe? Just be careful doing them up too tight.. those threads strip pretty easily in the head.
Hi Ed As what Andy has commented on. New crush washer's do squash up a lot , there are two different styles of crush washer's , well i have two styles both O.E that i'm aware of , one very pliable the other not so. I personally go by feel when doing these bolt's up , as you can feel the crush washer's take up , as soon as you feel them take up stop as such. Fire the bike up and check , and re-check later on after a good ride. Maybe not correct via the workshop manual doing this method , but it has never let me down and no stripped header bolt's is what where after. Well that's my 2 cent's worth. I'll take some pictures of my header pipes for you , if it help's ?
I think I have the non pliable one that doesn't really squash a whole lot. I did have anti size on the thread perhaps that made a difference. Seem to be all sealed up now so won't go tighter. I have a few sets of crush washer (a bag of cheap ones too) so I may loosen them off a bit and re do it. Definitely don't want to strip the bolt holes. If you get a chance while you're out in the shed that'd be great! As for the hanging idle i forgot to plug the vacuum port for the fuel tap d'oh.
Took a picture of a O.E crush washer , as you can see it's pretty thick and also has a big sealing face , so it will crush down a bit , just be gentle and you should feel it taking up. yep , alway's use never seize , this should help also with the feel of the bolt while doing it up , as in not binding in the thread. Not to be rude here , you mention " wont go tighter " , even when the crush washer is fitted correctly , feel wise , you should still be able to tighten the bolt up as such. As you can see the O.E gasket will have a lot of give in it. I can measure the new Gasket if it help's you to find a suitable one out of you bag of gasket's. Also here's a picture of my header pipes installed. Installation of the gasket's where all done by feel while tightening up. Please excuse the dust on the engine , haven't vacuumed the bike for a while. I have another style of header pipe stud's that i'm working on. These will screw into the head and has a lock nut set up , this way you just undo the nut and the stud stay's in the head. I think the O.E set up look's a look neater. But may install this set up later on. If you need any more pic's , happy to help.
Awesome thanks for the pics! I feel like my header brackets have bent as they kind of wrap around more than yours. I have the same gaskets as you too. Good idea with studs too would save the threads a lot of wear for sure. As for tightness I just really wanna try tightening it too much. If it's sealing ok I'll just leave it. Thanks again!
Seems to be 1 step forward, 50 steps back. Tried mounting another set of handlebars, they needed a bit of fettling to fit. Tried fitting the mc that came with the bike on and it could the handlebar. Nice. Tried the fzr one which looked promising but the lever and fittings were all flogged out and bent. Tried the og srx250 nissin mc which appears to fit but will need a rebuild kit and sight glass. Tried popping the sight glass out of the cheap mc but it doesn't fit nissin mc, slightly over size. All sight glasses I can find on eBay are 18mm, nissin mc measures 17 mm id. /Sigh So, remote reservoir mc or original nissin mc will work I think. Just need to sort out which one is more cost effective. Also tried wiring the led indicators up with no luck. Need to purchase some diodes and a non-cheap and nasty flasher relay haha Nice relaxing Sunday, hey?
Tried mounting up a headlight onto the bike but it just looks.. weird.. I think part of the reason is the space between the headlight and where the gauges + clip ones are is just odd. It also sticks out too much for my liking. The top triple clamp prevents clipons being mounted below it to neaten up the space. Thought about cutting the stock gauge mounting points off. Which would most likely compromise the strength though. The ignition switch + gauge mounts stop the headlight from being mounted much closer to the forks which is a common style I see in cafe racers. For now I am trying to relocate the ignition switch to give a bit more space at the triple. I'll mock up gauges to see how it might all come together.
Here is an idea for you. Maybe look at getting a 3WP top triple. I have a spare set of SRX600 gauges etc as well as the 3WP headlight bracket. The fork size is the same as is the offset etc. the only thing is the tachometer has a lower redline but that can be rectified easily. Have a search on Zenmarket. I can have a look for you when I get back from taking another load down to Wodonga tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Here's a close up to see the area: I had a quick look but could find a 3wp one, will have a closer look later. Is it a different design? I could fix the issue with just chucking on the fzr front end as it has a flat top triple hahah but then I'd need new tyre, strip repaint rim all that stuff. Plus a newly powder coated + new tyre srx rim now unused. Not much forethought went into this project haha
Yes... its a very deep rabbit hole you are entering. Yes, a 3WP and the requisite headlight mount will work etc but then it will all be different if you go to the FZR front end. So I guess the trick is to determine what your end goal is.... Stock looking naked SRX250 (they did exist) with the tyre size limitations and crappy front forks or Twin disc front end with forks that are better suited to the lighter weight bike, a more common tyre size etc. By the way... why do you have the headlight mounted so low in the pictures? It would look much better up higher.
Re forks, I think in the end it'll be fzr forks. They wouldn't look out of place but with the twin disc + tyre size bonus. Re headlight position, that's where the top of the headlight was in line with the tank, that way the line is preserved. A bit higher breaks the line and I think it looks weird. I'll have to make some brackets to mount the light at the same height but closer in. These pics show what I mean:
On such a light bike you don't need the extra disc. The extra weight of disc and caliper gives your suspension a harder time due to increased unsprung weight. FZR forks are JDM and so are poorly damped. So fit cartridge emulators to make them work properly.
The poor little SRX isnt overly endowed with good braking performance, even though it is light and sometimes the choice of twin discs is more Form vs Function... at least for me anyway. The 33mm SRX forks are (as you say) JDM and way too soft so the FZR 3LN1 38mm forks (again poorly sprung for a 50kg heavier bike are too soft will work fine on the SRX... if it isnt a serious race bike (and the Japanese do use standard FZR forks in their SRX race series) then no real need for emulators... At the end of the day...it is @edwardo choice on what he does with the bike...
I found these on Zenmarket https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=500589183 https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=u380996344 And if you went that way I have a 3WP headlight / indicator mount you can have gratis....
Been on holidays for a week but only got out to the shed today. Made a bracket to relocate the ignition to under the tank. Kind of a proof of concept and to keep things interesting. Cons- no room for throttle return, kinda close to the engine, could have left more meat on the bracket where it mounts to the fuel tap bolts Pros- more room for shenanigans up at the top triple, looks cool.
Had some leftover aluminium angle and made up a temporary bracket to mount the gauges up. Not 100% decided on location but it was good to see if I needed to shorten cables etc. The gauges are cheap eBay items that came with the bike but might just keep them for now. The wiring needed some fettling to work. It was also good see what it would look like with a headlight. I'm going to ditch the small one in favour of a larger diameter yet shallower headlight. I thought such a large headlight would look odd but it seems to work for me. Will upload pics later.
That actually looks to be pretty good... until you see the front view...lol Some fancy shaping etc and it will do the trick nicely... if you can get the headlight up higher and further back than how you had it originally (top just under the gauges) it will look pretty good I think.
Yeah it doesn't look great that's for sure. Didn't want to spend too much time making it look pretty until I knew for sure they were staying there. I reckon knocking off those corners into a radius and painting it matte black will help it fade away and not be an eyesore haha Waiting on headlight brackets now. Will play around with positioning to get it where it looks right.
Chucked on another headlight and got it roughly in the right position. I also got hold of new gauges with a slimmer bracket. I bent the bracket arms at 90 deg to suit, yet to put it on though. This should put the gauges in about the same place, maybe a tad higher but overall will look much better than my aluminium monstrosity. It's getting closer.. need to paint tank and plastics, side covers and frame insert cover thing. New brake line needs to be made up or see if the old one will still fit. Stuff like that.