EBC "CK" series is standard cork plates. For that price you can find an EBC "SRK" series which is a complete kit with kevlar lined plates, steel separator plates & clutch springs. Alternatively, @Grasshopper can get you the CK kit for a lot cheaper. Less than $100
Almost done what I've wanted...added some Carbon to the cluster - for some reason only one of my pins came out so I needed to add slits to the cover to get them over the remaining two pins. One part of it cracked but I don't mind! Also touched up my wheels with a black paint marker, no more white chips/scratches! To go: Front braided lines Remove corrosion and paint fork lowers Clean and paint rear brake calliper Rebuild/clean carbs, upgrade to 110/108 main jets Spark plugs Thermostat Rocker cover gasket Paint extractors/downpipe
Done the forks and exhaust, finish on the forks is not the best but at least the corrosion is gone. Slowly it's looking and performing better, I like doing this stuff, it's all a learning progress but it's so much easier to work on motorcycles than cars. I'm going to do the 20 cent mod on the forks (just one in each) and see how I like it. I have no idea what the rear shock is set to so I'll check that out too.
Small update Front braided lines have been fitted - this is definitely one of the better modifications that I've done Spark plugs changed for good measure Carbs have been rebuilt and 110 108 108 110 jets fitted, pilot at 2screws as per someone else who had their bike on the dyno, AFR's were good. May not be the case with my bike but soon will find out. Changed the thermostat and the bike, still doesn't get up to temp while moving always creeps back to just above the T, sometimes even below - one would think it still should get warmer while moving even in winter. I thought the old one was stuck open but it wasn't. I've cleaned around the rocker cover gasket - will inspect over time as I've got a gasket set sitting here. When I done the plugs I now believe it was just dirt/grime built up on top and has seeped down. Just need to finish polishing the frame once I've got time and that's about it!
thread tidied up and new thread for jetting here - http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...r-improved-performance.7726/page-2#post-75919
Okay so bike went on the dyno today, I'm running rich, it's low 12's idle, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle. There's no flat spots which I'm happy with
And it shows up rich? That's insightful news. I wasnt expecting u to roll with 2 turns out. would have love to known results at stock turns. if that's the case I might run some 8 5 5 8's with 1 & 3.5quater turns out balanced with 1 washer. Very helpful indeed. Thanks!
$120 for 6 runs, could have got a $55 run somewhere else but it's a fair bit out of the way. I'm not sure if I want to run slightly smaller main jets to try get it to run slightly leaner or what - you lot got any ideas? I could try 108 105 105 108
First of all that looks like a good result right from the get go. Is there a rev limiter kicking in at some rpm? Just asking because of the 13.5 AFR at the end. "For most spark ignition engines, there is a specific small window of AFR in which maximum horsepower and best throttle response will be found. For gasoline, that range is 12.5 to 13 AFR." http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/afx_tuning_manual_rev_06.pdf There is a limit as to what can be done here because of the options available to tune the carburettor and the dyno type. At half throttle with a variable load is a lot different on a brake dyno to that of an acceleration run on a rolling road. What would I do? Well it would be nice to try some different needles to address the lean area at 7000, but I am sure they will not be available. If you do make any changes then one change at a time of course. cheers Blair
Based on the fact the pilot screw affect the whole throttle range is just return them to the stock setting and balance the carbs in your situation. Main jets are close enough to perfect.