You are a life saver Damus thanks! was worried there for a second. Bought these rotors and pads from Procycle in Hornsby NSW, i'm used to seeing he black metal gear rotors too, but these were the gold version which I actually prefer Oh and they also have the word MGEAR on the discs too
Ahh okay then your sweet. Organic take allot longer to seat from what I have read, but your A okay by the look of it.
I only went out and did a few 100 - 30ish for 15 minutes so probably still needs a little more. Appreciate the quick help mate!
Happy to help ^_^ gotta give back with the 1000's of questions I have asked haha. Probably owe @kiffsta a case or 2 thats for sure.
The brake caliper housing should NOT be touching the disk, that's what the mark is on the inside of your LHS disk. Loosen the forks and wheel shaft and try move the fork(s) across so they're nice and snug on the spacer(s). There's a lip on the spacer for a reason. edit: from experience - had some funny noises from my brakes and the caliper housing was hitting my LHS disk - gap between spacer and fork. Fixed gap, no more noise.
I got those lines and my caliper housing isn't touching the disk. I think the pads just are 100% perfectly flat when u get them new.
@MCiN7 Alright, so that gap is not normal? I thought the caliper housing was a little close to the rotor. I'll try what you said now. I'll see if it makes a difference.
Nope, once you move the forks closer the gap will increase between the caliper housing and the brake disc which is what you want
If you tighten the axle bolt to the specified torque you will see the axle show on the LHS no matter what you do. That I am sure of lol.
Can someone else chime in here. Is the above correct? The only way I could get my "gap" (as we keep calling it) to disappear is by loosening the axle nut. I cant imagine both my and pwo9's forks being that out of alignment. If that is the case or I have misunderstood somewhere then my bad, I would like to fix my bike also if the "gap" is incorrect.
@MCiN7 Cheers for picking up on that No gap, and LHS rotor clears the caliper now @Damus You might want to fix yours up now haha! I wasn't able to move the fork over with my hands like Matt said, but what I did was tighten the LHS axle holder bolts first, then torque down the main axle bolt which moved the forks together. Took me a while to find a way but try that Damus if you can't move it by hand. Plus i realigned the forks to be safe.
@Damus Yep, that images taken were after everything was torqued to spec. So just as @MCiN7 said, you need to move the fork closer together to remove that gap, and for the caliper to clear the rotor.
Ill give that a go myself *nods*. Sorry Matt I was wrong it would seem, learn something new every day. (my bikes still faster =p hahahaha).
^ that is for the RRR and I think our pinch bolts are located differently according to that diagram. It also doesn't specify if the pinch bolts on the axle should be tightened before the main axle bolt. What I can't get my head around is the fact that there is a lip on the axle to stop it going all the way through the axle holder, however why Honda didn't just make the lip on the axle so it CANT go too deep into the axle holder is beyond me, makes no sense. It would appear that if you align the axle correctly and do up the pinch bolts on the LHS first then tighten the main axle bolt you can "remove" the gap. I have had problems with my fork alignment though and obviously if they are perfect you don't suffer this problem. But yeah, interesting stuff.