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Project 1994 ZXR250

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Adamn, Nov 6, 2021.

  1. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    Gday

    This will be a slow burn i think. As mentioned in the New Members section, I picked this little guy up last weekend, It hasn't run in 3.5 odd years.

    My plan is to inspect the tank, overhaul the carbs, check air filter, replace all fluids ... basically get it safe and address any issues along the way. I might compression test it while I've got it apart also. Happy to take suggestions

    I gave it a good clean this morning as I hate working on dirty bikes, it came up pretty nice I think. Next job is drain the tank which I have started doing as I cannot get latch open just yet. I'd rather the tank was as empty as possible before I do any drilling if I need to go down that road.

    So hook up a bit of hose, switch it to PRI and nothing... blow a bit of air up the fuel line, can hear bubbles in the tank but no flow. Try initiate vacuum using a big syringe when switched to ON or RES - nothing. Syringe some fuel out of the fuel line at last I get some flow happening - smells pretty off !

    After a bath
    20211106_124023.jpg 20211106_124046.jpg 20211106_124113.jpg 20211106_124130.jpg

    Fuel Cap

    20211106_125032.jpg
    Draining Fuel
    20211106_144211.jpg 20211106_143304.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Nov 6, 2021
  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  3. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    Success on the fuel cap ! After a few days of penetrating oils, I used a small sharp centre punch to rotate the barrell with the key inserted - the key would turn to the point of engaging the latch.

    Thanks @GreyImport for the tips.

    20211106_161304.jpg 20211106_161400.jpg
     
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  4. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    I might be OK with a good flush to clear all the debris.

    20211106_163442.jpg

    My question is - has this tank had a liner poured in it or is that standard zrx issue ? Appears nearly black and pretty uniform.

    Airfilter is done and disentegrates when you look at it, hopefully the split occurred in storage and not in service, the airbox is spotless so I think that's the case.

    20211106_191250.jpg 20211106_191406.jpg
     
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  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Not sure about the tank lining but my 92 is bare steel .... maybe later models had some sort of lining

    Might be an idea to remove the fuel tap before u flush it out as there will be the internal filters

    airbox looks spotless :thumb_ups:

    lift the slides in the carbys with your finger and see if they "woosh" back into place ... if u get what I mean

    zxr fuel tap.jpg
     
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  6. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Dang I wish I looked that good after a bath

    Looking at the underside of that tank cap, there appears to have been a lot of fuel evaporation so expect the carbs to be a bit varnished in the needle & seat valve and smaller jets - nothing a proper clean and potentially bath in an ultrasonic won't cure

    Good thing about that bike is it has obviously been stored well away from moisture as it's not covered in signs of corrosion
     
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  7. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    A small progress update...

    New air filter and litetek kit delivered - thank you @maelstrom.

    I've started stripping the carbs down and the first negative thing i've found is the airbox to carb seals are missing in action


    20211206_133038.jpg 20211206_133048.jpg
     
  8. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    And more of the story, pictures are good at talking .... the smell though !

    20211206_173023.jpg 20211206_173044.jpg 20211206_173638.jpg 20211206_180751.jpg 20211206_181927.jpg 20211207_171418.jpg
    Overall the carbs look in good, un-butchered condition. Damn the screws holding the bank together are tight, I'm going to carefully apply some heat as my attempts to undo them have failed so far. Slides needed some jigging to loosen - essentially glued shut on the needle from all the gunk.

    Lucky for me I have been able to borrow an ultrasonic cleaner which should make the job less sucky.

    To be continued ....
     
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  9. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That smell gives me a headache, I was also down that the local bike shop recently, asked how busy they were during lockdown - said heaps of projects came their way - loads of stale fuel which was giving the mechanics headaches also

    mee no likee

    When you clean them in the ultrasonic, be aware that depending on what you use in the fluid, the aluminium may darken if you haven't removed all of the steel and brass - some cannot be removed

    Do you have a JIS screwdriver for the screws? Don't use philips, Posidrive will work and an impact screwdriver may be advisable - the one you tap with a hammer - they can be stubborn
     
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  10. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    I have recently picked up a set of JIS screwdrivers - should have had them many moons ago. I'll try heat first and resort to hammers if that doesn't work.

    RE: the headache - I definitely felt the affects of the day after, felt very average and that was with open windows and doors.

    I also have a blasting cabinet and might give them a wet soda blast if I dull the bodies in the ultrasonic cleaning process. I might try some ct18 or Dobatex Gold diluted at 100:1 to start with.
     
  11. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    This is the impact driver I mean

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-impact-screwdriver-set---7-piece/590130.html

    You don't have to hit them with a hammer, I find that just the pressure down from arm force and it's turning moment is usually enough

    OOH, now a blasting cabinet - that's a nice tool to have

    Interested to hear about Dobex gold, I bought some kerosene and shellite just to do the jets, float bowls on my FZR250 carbs as they're going to be superseded so don't need a whole cleaning 'again' - just back into service

    Whatever the heavier fraction is is leftover fuel, it's nasty, and I thought it was the more volatile lighter fractions that were the real nasties, perhaps msitakenly
     
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    My two cents. Do not blast carbs with anything unless you have sealed all orifices first.
     
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  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Need some three bond to soak those jets in.
     
  14. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  16. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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  17. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    Update:

    At the risk of being a one trick pony, bank screws loosened using a sharp punch and getting a small rotation to happen - I recently acquired a 'proper' vice, made all the difference. OEM JIS screws replaced with M5 square head Allen screws.
    20211209_165249.jpg

    I didn't source any threebond engine conditioner locally so I just used what I had (Motul Carb Cleaner) and did numerous cycles in the ultrasonic bath, rinsing with hot water and drying with compressed air each time. Last bath I tried Shell Dobatex as the detergent instead of CT18 - I should have stuck with CT18 as the Dobatex did have a darkening affect on the aluminium. It is a more alkaline strong product, lesson learned I guess.

    20211211_122713.jpg

    Litetek seals installed. All original seals still in tact (minus airbox seals), however they were all due for replacement and had gone hard, worn square or had started cracking.
    20211213_124929.jpg

    My latest challenge is getting the diaphragms to seat properly in the carb body groove to obtain a tight seal (no tears) - 2 out of 4 are good to go ... to be continued.
     
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  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Oops, that late model ZXR uses the same long vent Tee's as the late model ZXR400.
    [​IMG]
    Which means I need to make a special kit and web page for the late model ZXR250. Check your messages @Adamn I will send you some o-rings.
    Cheers
    Blair
     
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  19. Adamn

    Adamn Member Premium Member

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    Hi Blair

    Just for my own sanity ... is the breather tube I have Kawasaki part no. 92005-1204, or 92005–1314 ... or something else ?

    You've done well to spot the difference as I see them as identical.

    I trust your judgement and experience though, I'm just confused (I am often) :)
     
  20. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Oops my bad, better not trust my judgement :)
    Looks like I jumped to the wrong conclusion here. I will do some more digging, carry on.
     
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