Project Bens GSX250 Cafe Project

I think i've found a solution to the seat problem via a $3 pair of builders brackets at bunnings that are strong but I can bend them into shape with some force.

Will there be any trouble starting the bike after a few months no oil in it?

 

Hi RDickens,

No mate the orignial mount is still there and the pull down switch is too. I'm drilling a small hole in my rearsets and hooking it on the inside so it doesn't a. Rub the frame b. get caught on frame or my foot. c. looks neat.

Totally removed every mount point from under the seat. Love the way its ended up looking. Having a few minor mounting issues with the space under the rear seat due to the size and position of the battery. Might buy a smaller lithium ion battery once I get it started.

 

UPDATE 99% Done: Today my engineering mate came over and assisted me with some of my major problems

He drew up a diagram on his 3d modelling application and is LASER CUTTING a metal mount for my ignition switch!!! He's also making a steering lock adjuster and a mount to hold the rear of my exhaust in place. They are being cut from stainless steel and are absolute precision. I can't wait to show them off.

I tried starting the bike today to no avail. I've decided that i've set up the carbs wrong, or they are jetted incorrectly/pilot screws/buggered etc. I'm going to take them to a bike specialist and get some brand new carbs and get a professional tune. I figure once I repair these and mess around with them I'll have gone through 3 batteries trying to start it and it will run terribly.

I'm trying South East Motorcycles, Bikecraft, Dynobike and Bike Magic. They are all in my area so whoever gets back to me with a reasonable option will get my business. Anyone used any of them???

Thanks for watching/reading guys, this project is so near complete I can't wait to ride it with you.

Completed:
Brakes bled and set (by me )
Chain on (by me )
Throttle cable done (by me )
Stripped screw in carburettor bowl removed and replaced

To Do:
Mount Keyblock
Mount Seat - Another engineering project he's coming back to do
New Carbies/Tune
Steering lock to avoid damaging tank
RWC and reg
Insure

 

The aesthetic I was after meant I wanted nothing below my seat so the frame looked minimal. The main changes i had to make

1. Starter motor (+) from starter relay extended and rerun with other cables
2. Rectifier/Regulator cables extended and rectifier mounted under seat
3. Starter Relay, Blinker unit, Tri-Igniter and Battery all placed under seat hump
4. All wires run up under seat hump at rear
5. Engine earth run to frame at the engine mount instead of straight to battery

Well. I feel it's by no means a professional job so please don't judge straight away. My reasoning is that to hide all the electronics up under the seat a metal plate should be welded between the seat hoop at the rear, then to earth these I drilled 4 holes for mounting and for earthing and sanded back the paint work a little to get a good contact. I still need to make a seat mount, and once that is done I'll cover everything with heat shrink and waterproof it all and make a rubber/leather strap to hold the battery down.

What kind've seat you running?

 

http://www.shop.modernmotorcyclecom...ator-rectifier-12-volt-200w-single-or-3-phase

 

I have some great news guys. IT'S ALIVE!



I got some new bleed screws that were stripped and installed the carbies again. No matter how hard we tried the bike wouldnt start, it would sputter to life with some Aerostart the nstop again after a few revolutions. So I pulled the carbies off and switched the main jets back to the originals that came with the bike. I also reset the idle screw and the pilot screws to 3 1/2 turns
And boom! Started to life. Messed with the idle screw and the choke to get it sounding right. Turns out minus the air box doesnt really change the pressure much.

Questions:
After running it in, to bake the exhaust paint and engine paint (for a about 15 minutes) I did notice however that when i opened the throttle it started to stick and the revs kept climbing. This was only happening after the bike was warmed up, is it my needles and slides not closing properly? What would cause it to do that once it was warmed up?

Also I've noticed a slight oil leak coming from next to the spark plug. I don't think its coming from the actual cylinder, because its not burning oil, its just leaking from the headers a little. Going to investigate that one...

 

Bump, because i'm so freaking happy, I appreciate all the input and support from all you blokes. I'm so excited I think i'm gunna burst.

 

Can anyone give me any advice as to why the revs would climb like that? The throttle cable spring snaps back but it seems like the butterflys must still be open? Is it the slides that control the needles?