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Project CB250RS Restoration/Rebuild

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by TechHeadFred, May 16, 2014.

  1. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    CB250RS Parts Transplant – Indicators, Lights, Brakes and Finally the Muffler Arrives!
    (Originally Posted on 20/03/2017)


    This weekend, I continued transferring the lights, switches and clocks across to what used to be Bruiser as the muffler was still yet to arrive.

    I started with the front indicators- they were removed from the frame and disassembled.

    20170319_214246.jpg

    All parts were then sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and left to dry.

    20170319_214552-e1490014048165.jpg

    Meanwhile, I fitted the headlight mounting bracket.

    20170319_215455.jpg 20170319_215500.jpg

    With the bracket securely attached, the indicators went back on.

    20170319_215956.jpg 20170319_220016.jpg

    I called it a night and decided to get more done this evening after work.

    When I got home, a parcel had arrived from Germany – my muffler had finally arrived!

    As it was raining, I opened the parcel under the gazebo.

    20170320_171821.jpg 20170320_172004.jpg 20170320_172022-e1490014883547.jpg

    Not wanting to get the muffler wet already, I took it to the shed and unwrapped it fully.

    20170320_203524.jpg 20170320_203837.jpg

    It is definitely rated at only 12.5 KW, but anything is an improvement over just a header pipe and at least this one is a genuine part from this series.

    20170320_203849-e1490016630170.jpg

    I cleaned up the left muffler for comparison.

    20170320_203927.jpg 20170320_204352.jpg

    Next up, I decided it was past time to refill the master brake cylinder for the front brake.
    20170320_211449-e1490015393922.jpg

    The inner cover seal had warped a little from being exposed to air in an empty cylinder on one side and rust from the metal plate inside the lid on the other side.

    20170320_211713.jpg 20170320_211723-e1490015348898.jpg

    I sprayed both parts with Inox and gave them both a good clean.

    20170320_211915.jpg 20170320_212144.jpg

    I filled the reservoir with fresh DOT3/J1703 brake fluid.

    20170320_212148-e1490015567974.jpg

    I placed the rubber seal under a magnetic parts dish to flatten it slightly.

    20170320_212221-e1490015643908.jpg

    Then I remembered the metal plate inside the lid, so I put the lid back under it.

    20170320_212311.jpg

    I pumped the brake lever until brake fluid came through the tube to my brake bleeding kit, then pumped some more until it came out more blue than yellow.

    20170320_212627.jpg 20170320_212720.jpg

    I topped up the reservoir with more fresh DOT3/J1703 fluid to the high mark 20170320_212943-e1490015933944.jpg

    The inner seal looked a bit less warped by then, so the cover went back on.

    20170320_213002-e1490016030872.jpg

    20170320_213520-e1490016047920.jpg

    I got a phone call, so took a break at this stage and continued work until fairly late in the night. As this post is already a little late, more on that tomorrow!

    (copied from my blog post of the same name)
     
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  2. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    2007 CBF250F, 2004 KLR650, 1992 FZR400, 2 x CB250RS (1980 and 1982),
    CB250RS Parts Transplant – Headlight, Battery, Midsection Boxes, Choke and Carburetor
    (Originally Posted on 21/03/2017)


    After finishing the front brake, I moved on to the headlight assembly and clocks (instrument cluster, speedo and tacho).

    First up, I placed the headlight housing and pulled all the wiring through.

    20170320_214731.jpg

    I perched the clocks on top, then bolted them down.

    20170320_215005.jpg 20170320_215526.jpg

    I reconnected all the wiring inside the headlight housing, hopefully getting the loose plugs in the right places.

    20170320_222000.jpg 20170320_222009.jpg

    Popped the screws back into the headlight and moved on to the midsection. 20170320_222337.jpg

    The battery, battery box and airbox were removed from the “donor” bike (formerly Eric)…

    20170320_214156.jpg 20170320_214205.jpg

    20170320_222920.jpg 20170320_223055.jpg 20170320_223103.jpg

    …and transferred to the “patient” (formerly Bruiser)

    20170320_223522.jpg 20170320_223527.jpg 20170320_223634.jpg 20170320_223720.jpg 20170320_224103.jpg 20170320_224720.jpg

    Connected the wiring up on the patient, then a view of the donor for comparison.

    20170320_224849.jpg 20170320_224858.jpg

    I hung the mufflers up out of harm’s way, as I’ll need some more exhaust gaskets before I can install them.

    20170320_224920.jpg

    I realised I’d forgotten to attach the front brand plate to the forks, so that was next.

    20170320_225350.jpg

    The dask was looking incomplete, so I found the choke cable, threaded it through and fastened it.

    20170320_225420.jpg 20170320_225405-e1490086279478.jpg 20170320_225642.jpg

    Finally I fitted the carburetor and connected the choke and throttle cables.

    20170320_232330.jpg

    Next I’ll be seeing if I can find any more spare exhaust gaskets, as I can only find one at the moment!

    If I can’t find any more, I’ll order some and keep fitting parts towards the rear of the bike until the mufflers can be mounted.

    (copied from my blog post of the same name)
     

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    Last edited: Mar 21, 2017
  3. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hmmm, not sure why that last one attached all the pics directly. Seems to have been a double post originally...
     
  4. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    So as you are making one bike from both Eric and Bruiser, will you call this one Bru-ric or Eri-ser?
     
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  5. brinkcx

    brinkcx Well-Known Member

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    About your 12.5 kW muffler : not sure how Honda restricted the specific CB250RS model this muffler was meant for, but sometimes they welded a restricting flange or ring in the header pipe, cylinder head side. They're a pita to remove if present. If not present chances are good that your muffler is exactly the same as the full power version (bike restricted on inlet side or in other ways) and only marked for legal reasons.

    (no progress on my own bike, garage now cleared but something was dropped on the bikes and the CB250RS now has a bad dent in the tank and a piece broken off the tail. On the upside i now have the correct sprockets ready)
     
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  6. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Something a long those lines. All will be revealed shortly!

    I'll have a closer look and see if there are any obvious differences. Given that I couldn't find any other right hand mufflers I'll live with them if need be. :)
     
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  7. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    CB250RS Parts Transplant – Front Wheel Swap, Mufflers, Some Fiddly Bits, And Temporary Livery
    Originally Posted on 27/03/2017)

    I had a busy weekend reattaching things!

    First up, I wanted to swap out the front wheel as the tyre was quite flat, the spokes are rusty, and the brake disc looks almost as grooved as a record from the same era as the bike!

    20170325_213203.jpg 20170325_213211.jpg

    Fortunately the donor bike had a front wheel with a nice firm front tyre, very little rust on the spokes, and a brake disc in much better condition.

    20170325_213229.jpg 20170325_213236.jpg

    After removing the castle nut and split pin from the left side of the axle, I was a little puzzled as to how to removed the axle, as I hadn’t looked at the right side closely before. The axle is held onto the right fork with a similar type of bracket to those used to to hold the the handlebar to the triple tree and the to hold the master brake cylinder in place on the handlebar.

    20170325_213721.jpg 20170325_213959.jpg 20170325_214320.jpg

    Once the bolts had been removed, it was remarkably easy to remove the wheel and axle

    20170325_214756.jpg 20170325_214834.jpg 20170325_215112.jpg

    I removed the brake pads, as I was planning to transfer them to the other set of calipers along with the wheel.

    20170325_215513.jpg 20170325_215829.jpg 20170325_220958.jpg

    Next it was time to remove the sub-par wheel and put it aside to think about what it had done

    20170325_221246.jpg 20170325_221421.jpg 20170325_222008.jpg

    The front brake pad retaining pins had other ideas about my plan to replace the front brake pads, so I gave up on that for now. I applied a fresh coating of grease to the axle on the good wheel, maneuvered it into place and loosely fitted the castle nut.

    20170325_224156.jpg 20170325_224616.jpg 20170325_224625.jpg

    After tightening the axle clamp on the right side, I secured the castle nut and replaced the split pin.

    20170325_224840.jpg 20170325_225051.jpg 20170325_225300.jpg

    I cleaned up the spare speedo cable gear and found the speedo cable. The retaining screw was missing from the one I had fitted with the wheel, so I used the one from the spare.

    20170325_225856-e1490614112582.jpg 20170325_225925-e1490614128913.jpg 20170325_230215.jpg

    Speedo cable fitted at both ends!

    20170325_230409.jpg 20170325_230414.jpg

    While I was concentrating on the clocks, I fitted the tacho cable too.

    20170325_230629.jpg 20170325_230637.jpg

    It was getting somewhat late by this stage, so I left further work until the next day.

    First order of business the next day was to make sure I put oil in, so I don’t forget before attempting to start the bike again! I opted for generic supermarket 10w50, as it’s cheap and doesn’t have come with fancy friction modifiers and additives that make most modern motor oils unsuitable for wet clutches. Regular readers may remember these as the “attachments” referred to in the CBF250 Shop Manual while troubleshooting Jack’s clutch slippage!

    20170326_095012.jpg 20170326_095014.jpg 20170326_095019.jpg

    After filling up the oil enough for a cold engine, I popped the black tank and the red duck-tail and seat on, to remind myself how close I was to completion.

    20170326_100142.jpg 20170326_100252.jpg

    (continued below)
    (copied from part of my blog post of the same name)
     
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    Last edited: Mar 28, 2017
  8. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    (Continued from above post)

    I removed the chain from the donor bike and after a quick inspection and a shake I decided not to re-use it. The black crescents in the middle image areall the perished o-rings that fell out when I shook the chain gently a few times. The close-up on the right shows how few o-rings are left.

    20170326_100607.jpg 20170326_101213-e1490616285947.jpg 20170326_101235.jpg

    I decided to keep the clip-style master link as a spare in case of chain emergencies if I don’t have a chain riveter handy.

    20170326_101339.jpg

    I figured even without a chain it would be useful to have a working rear brake again, so I started with the stay bar.

    20170326_102755.jpg 20170326_102758.jpg

    Moving further back, I saw the right side mounting plate was missing.

    20170326_102809.jpg

    I realised the rear wheel stay bar wasn’t going to do much if the rear wheel wasn’t securely attached, so I removed the parts I needed from the donor bike.

    20170326_102831.jpg 20170326_102846.jpg

    I fitted the axle stopper plate, chain tensioning bolt and rear brake arm.

    20170326_103956.jpg 20170326_104010.jpg 20170326_105644.jpg

    I fitted the rear brake rod – making sure all springs were in the right places – and reconnected the.rear wheel stay bar.

    20170326_105649.jpg 20170326_105653.jpg

    At last, it was time to fit the mufflers! First, I needed a pair of pillion pegs, as they also have retaining brackets for the mufflers. One was still attached to the donor bike, so off it came!

    20170326_110943.jpg 20170326_111059.jpg

    I placed the mufflers on either side of the bike, ready to fit. I opted not to fit new gaskets just yet, as I’ll need to remove the mufflers again in order to access the rear axle when I fit a new rear sprocket. I also fitted the rear brake lever and stopper plate.

    20170326_112042.jpg 20170326_112125-e1490618002752.jpg

    Right muffler in place.

    20170326_115411.jpg

    Connecting the muffler to the cylinder head was trickier than I expected, as one of the mounting bolts is significantly shorter than the other. It seems the mounting plate on this side has been replaced with one thinner one than the standard part at some stage to compensatate.

    20170326_115453.jpg

    I reattached the cylinder head mounting bracket and tidied the cables through it while I had the socket wrench out.

    20170326_120547.jpg

    Left muffler in place.

    20170326_122409.jpg

    No problems with connecting the muffler on this side, as the threaded rods are standard length on this side of the cylinder head.

    20170326_122432.jpg

    I decided to mount the rear indicators after straightening the mounting hardware. First up were the grommets.

    20170326_123142.jpg 20170326_123840.jpg 20170326_123850.jpg

    The metal collars for the mounting screws went in next.

    20170326_124640.jpg 20170326_125025.jpg

    The mounting arms were screwed on and earth wires run through the holes in the rear fender/mudguard.

    20170326_125348.jpg 20170326_125356.jpg

    Indicators were attached and their cables run through the mounting arms and through the holes in the fender/mudguard.

    20170326_125540.jpg 20170326_125907.jpg

    Finally the cables were plugged in and the luggage compartment replaced on the rear fender.

    20170326_125920.jpg 20170326_130305.jpg

    Finally, I replaced the tank, duck-tail and seat and called it a day.

    20170326_130405.jpg

    Not bad for a weekend’s work!.

    All that remains now before finally getting a roadworthy check are swapping the front brake calipers so the pads match the disc, then replacing the mirrors, fuel line, front mudguard, front sprocket, front chain guards/covers, rear sprocket and chain!

    I’ll also be re-fitting some side panels eventually , of course!

    I’ve also been researching options for restoring the original colour scheme and livery – I’ll post more on that in a future update.

    (copied from part of my blog post of the same name)
     

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  9. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    hey Fred, by my experience you don't have to remove your mufflers to remove your back wheel, put the bike on it's centre stand on something about 10cm high, loosen your axle and the chain adjusters, remove the metal thinghie in the swing arm and you can get your back wheel out.
     
  10. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Jo, although I don't have to remove the mufflers it makes it easier to get a torque wrench in to tighten the axle to specified torque.

    I'll probably be replacing the threaded bolt on the cylinder head or the whole cylinder head, so not putting the gaskets in just yet anyway!
     
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  11. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    CB250RS Parts Transplant – Sprockets, Chain, Side Panels, Mudguard And A Fuel Line
    Originally Posted on 03/04/2017)


    This week, I started with removing the rear wheel from the donor bike and salvaging the sprocket from it.

    20170402_113346.jpg 20170402_113535.jpg

    The sprocket and the wheel it came from…

    20170402_115852.jpg 20170402_115914.jpg

    And the sprocket after cleaning up with degreaser.

    20170402_121610.jpg

    Next was the rear wheel from the “recipient” bike

    20170402_121907.jpg 20170402_121903.jpg 20170402_122142.jpg

    This sprocket looked a lot worse for wear.

    20170402_122356.jpg 20170402_123809.jpg

    Almost like a saw blade compared to the donor one!

    20170402_123815.jpg 20170402_123820.jpg

    One of the bolts from this wheel had a 13 mm nut on it. I cleaned all 12 mounting bolts and nuts up with some degreaser and picked the best-looking ones

    20170402_124753.jpg 20170402_130447.jpg

    While the wheel isn’t in the best shape, I figured I can put a new tyre and new sprocket on it ready for when the bike needs a new chain. I put the better sprocket on the wheel as it had the better tyre before taking a short break for lunch.

    20170402_131312.jpg 20170402_132425.jpg

    After lunch, I compared my three front sprockets. I opted to use the right-most one as it had the least wear.

    20170402_135006-e1491223648741.jpg

    I cleaned up the primary drive shaft before fitting the sprocket.

    20170402_135114.jpg 20170402_135912.jpg

    The sprocket and the locking plate in place, fixed in place with the mounting bolts.

    20170402_135920.jpg 20170402_135933.jpg 20170402_140009.jpg

    I opted to re-use the spare chain for now, after a liberal coating of “rust buster” spray.

    20170402_140428.jpg 20170402_140439.jpg

    Adjusted the chain tension, tightened the axle nut and fitted a split pin.

    20170402_142409.jpg 20170402_142502.jpg

    I popped the side panels in place and re-fitted the front mudguard.

    20170402_153405.jpg 20170402_153423.jpg

    I removed the front brake caliper from the “donor” bike and placed it in my bench vice to have another crack at loosening the stiff screw on the rear cover.

    20170402_155952.jpg 20170402_155959.jpg

    It chose not to cooperate, so I brought in the heavies – a small sledgehammer and traditional impact driver of the style from the days before they were all motorised. The recalcitrant screw soon saw the error of its ways!

    20170402_160359-e1491206851286.jpg 20170402_160424.jpg

    Getting back to the chain, I realised the rear chain guard was a bit warped, so I retrieved the one from the “donor” bike and gave it a once-over with Inox.

    20170402_162056-e1491206904295.jpg 20170402_162131.jpg

    Fitted and looking good!

    20170402_162752.jpg

    The lower front chain guard was next. I fitted the plastic one too but I must have been getting tired by this stage, as I seem to have forgotten to take a photo of that step!

    20170402_163648.jpg

    The helmet holder that matches the ignition, fuel and steering locks went on next, but was only fitted loosely as I’ll probably switch all the locks with Scarlet’s later.

    20170402_164605.jpg

    Finally, I cut a fresh length of fuel hose to replace the piece that had been broken off prior to the parts transplant.

    20170402_172649.jpg 20170402_172859.jpg 20170402_173109.jpg

    I haven’t started the bike again yet, I’m saving that for next week!

    (copied from my blog post of the same name)
     

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  12. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    CB250RS Parts Transplant – A New Fuel Tap, A Name, Kick-Starting, And Packing Up Parts
    (Originally Posted on 10/04/2017)

    Last week, my new fuel tap arrived!

    20170407_130602.jpg

    While it fits perfectly, I didn’t fit the tank just yet, as I want to repaint it first.

    20170407_151832.jpg

    I’ve also decided on a name for the resulting bike after the parts transplant.

    As it contains parts from Eric and from Bruiser, I decided to smash the names together and came up with a few possibilities:

    ERI-SER, BRU-RIC and ER-SER were all briefly considered before thought of ERIC-ER, as the bike’s working parts are more Eric than Bruiser.

    This quickly became Erica, because the gender of inanimate objects is completely arbitrary anyway!

    Heres a video of Erica’s first start after the surgery



    After running Erica for a while, I decided to swap out the rear duck-tail fairing.

    The original seat from Bruiser with the blue duck-tail fairing

    20170408_143616.jpg

    Scarlet’s original duck-tail on Eric’s old seat.

    20170408_143631.jpg

    I removed the very dodgy self-tapping wood screws I’d only ever intended to use temporarily on Eric’s seat

    20170408_143704.jpg 20170408_143751.jpg

    Bruiser’s old seat still had the original mounting screws, so off came the duck-tail.

    20170408_143806.jpg 20170408_143919.jpg

    Onto the better seat and a close-up of the mounting screws.

    20170408_143940.jpg 20170408_144002.jpg

    A couple of vanity shots of Erica with the black tank still fitted until the blue one is repainted.

    20170408_144645.jpg 20170408_144707.jpg

    With the obligatory full shots of Erica out of the way, I stacked the spare mudguard and duck-tail fairing next to the very dented spare tank.

    20170408_150222.jpg

    I decided the seat could go with them.

    20170408_150245.jpg

    Looking at the frame, I decided there was still toomuch on it, so I set about stripping it down completely.

    20170408_150313.jpg

    The ignition coil and High Tension lead were the first candidates.

    20170408_150438.jpg 20170408_150456-e1491828911627.jpg

    The mounting posts shared with and the mounting plate for the Regulator/Rectifier were next.

    20170408_150547-e1491828982328.jpg 20170408_150637-e1491828999598.jpg

    The wiring loom and rear brake light switch followed soon after.

    20170408_150758.jpg 20170408_150829.jpg

    The gear shift lever and mounting pin came next.

    20170408_152001.jpg 20170408_152031.jpg 20170408_152100.jpg

    At this point, I decided to start bagging things up and labelling them to prevent further damage and in case I decide to part them out.

    20170408_152225-e1491829113700.jpg 20170408_152232-e1491829130973.jpg

    I moved on to the wiring clips.

    20170408_152717.jpg 20170408_152810.jpg

    Copied from part of my blog post of the same name)
    <continued below>
     

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  13. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Location:
    Canberra, ACT
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    2007 CBF250F, 2004 KLR650, 1992 FZR400, 2 x CB250RS (1980 and 1982),
    <continued from above post>

    The kickstand seemed like the next logical step…

    20170408_152324.jpg 20170408_152818.jpg

    …until I realised I needed to take the mounting bracket for the footpeg off to remove it!

    20170408_152825.jpg 20170408_153359.jpg

    With suitable persuasion I was able to convince it, however!

    20170408_153810.jpg 20170408_153816.jpg

    I also removed the swingarm axle in the process, though.

    20170408_153939-e1491830124600.jpg 20170408_153947.jpg

    Naturally, I removed the rear shocks and swingarm next

    . 20170408_154006.jpg

    20170408_154025.jpg 20170408_154053.jpg 20170408_154124.jpg 20170408_154137.jpg 20170408_154210.jpg 20170408_154256.jpg

    I replaced the axle in the swingarm so I wouldn’t lose any of the parts.

    20170408_154312.jpg 20170408_154348.jpg

    I noticed the rear brake stay bar was attached with a split pin and bolt at the swingarm end as well, so I removed it and put the bolt back through for safekeeping.

    20170408_154525.jpg 20170408_154539.jpg

    20170408_154659.jpg 20170408_154704.jpg

    The cylinder head mounting plate and cable clip were next.

    20170408_154815.jpg 20170408_154817.jpg 20170408_154824.jpg 20170408_154927.jpg 20170408_154931.jpg

    The right footpeg and bracket came off fairly easily.

    20170408_155545-e1491831322566.jpg 20170408_155549-e1491831347997.jpg

    I’m glad I was able to remove the final mounting bolt by hand, as I don’t have an allen wrench this big! It was about 8 mm.

    20170408_155600.jpg

    The horn and throttle cable guide came off the front of the frame.

    20170408_155741.jpg 20170408_155823-e1491831452886.jpg

    By this stage, I had just the front forks and main stand left to remove.

    20170408_160016.jpg

    As I don't yet own a 30 mm spanner or socket, the main stand was next to come off.
    The spring came off very easily without a wheel in the way.

    20170408_160230.jpg 20170408_160250.jpg

    The split pin was easy to remove with a pair of pliers.

    20170408_160320.jpg 20170408_160346.jpg

    The stand itself wasn’t quite so easily removed from the frame!

    20170408_160357.jpg

    I got it eventually though.

    20170408_160701.jpg

    With the stand removed, I picked up the remainder of the frame.

    20170408_160711-e1491831796169.jpg 20170408_160827.jpg

    I found a suitable space for it and put the wheels away behind it

    20170408_161341-e1491831857440.jpg 20170408_161348-e1491831877160.jpg 20170408_161520.jpg 20170408_161522.jpg

    I cleaned up the main stand and its spring with some degreaser and they came up pretty well!

    20170408_164735.jpg

    Finally, I started Erica and rode her up the ramp into the shed before stuffing the parts box full and locking up the shed.

    20170408_170436.jpg 20170408_170507.jpg

    (Copied from part of my blog post of the same name)
     

    Attached Files:

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    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
  14. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    May 11, 2014
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    IT Systems Engineer
    Location:
    Canberra, ACT
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    2007 CBF250F, 2004 KLR650, 1992 FZR400, 2 x CB250RS (1980 and 1982),
    Erica Gets The Spares
    (Originally Posted on 08/05/2017)

    Sylvie's new mirrors turned up unexpectedly, after I'd already received a refund form the seller.

    Sylvie’s new mirrors freed up the spare mirrors, so I took a last couple of photos of Erica without mirrors before fitting them.

    20170503_184509.jpg

    20170503_184519.jpg

    Here are both the new mirrors for Sylvie, and the spares I had been using.
    Spares are on the left.

    20170503_183321.jpg

    Voila! Mirrors at last!

    20170503_185026.jpg

    I ticked off my first item from Erica’s list since it was written up.

    20170503_185053.jpg

    (Copied in part with some edits from my blog post)
     
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