https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/suzuki-diaphragm-replacement-fzr-3ln-bdst-carburetor.8851/ https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/carb-diaphragms-for-fzr.1689/ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...id=044361a9-e479-405a-ad47-6af924e69adf&tpp=1
Are the bandit 250 ones the same? 61.5 outer diameter,26.5 inner diameter and 15 high. If they will fit without issues then sweet. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Yeah the listing said they were for the bandit, in the threads I read that the Suzuki 250 ones will fit and i checked out the site to find an alternative but couldn't find the 3ln1. Maybe im just blind haha I'd like to find some here in Australia so ill try the locals before I order that listing you posted. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
So when the bike is running, are you saying that one or more of the slide's is not lifting when you give it a few rev's ? No need to replace them if they all lift ok. Do they all lift at the same time? eg Syncronised ? Were there any visible hole's in, or any damage to your diaphram's when you inspected them? Have you warmed the bike up to normal operating temperature and set all the mixture screw's to get the smoothest / highest idle speed ? Good, cheap and quickly delivered aren't usually used in the same sentence, lol
Yeah all of them have little cracks in them so I've order some from ali express but they will take a month to get her so in the mean time ill try a temp solution by sealing the cracks just to at least get her home. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
New diaphragms are in and I've taken it for a few rides. Without the choke it takes off fine but when I accelerate it loses power but if I ride with the choke on it takes off a little rough but runs well once it gets going. But it idles fairly high even without choke (about 4k) I tried to adjust the idle screw and it didn't do anything. I know getting a proper balance will help but what is it supposed to idle at cause my tachometer doesnt start till 3k. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Most of the little 4s should idle around 1500 - 1800. I would be looking for air leaks. What are the intake boots like? Did you tighten all the clamps? Air getting in would make it run lean, which is consistent with your description.
Yeah all the clamps are tight, im pretty sure the balance is just way out cause its like 3 are lean and 1 is fine and then I put the choke on and 3 are fine and one feels rich. My mechanic will be back tomorrow and he has a mercury set up which would be far better than my water bottles and hoses. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
On a ride the other day the bike felt like it was swaying slightly left to right. It wasn't like a wobble more like a weave. But when I put it on a paddock stand it looked like the bike was leaning to the right and not standing straight like it should, would this be the cause of the weave? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Notched steering head bearings can cause that. If you are confident, put the bike on the side stand, hold down the rear and tilt the bike over to get the front up in the air. Gently move the steering towards centre and feel for stiff spots or resistance. if not confident use a stand, strap down the rear and jack up the front to perform the same inspection, also grab the forks, move back/forth and up down to feel for looseness in the steering
Couldn't find any stiff spots but there was a bit of play in it before so I tightened it a bit and that fixed the play but I think that was when the weaving started. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Then the bearings & races are worn and and need to be replaced. The weave is caused by flat spots in the race where the balls/rollers want to stay in as the steering moves.
Ordered some new bearings and racers as well as some new intake rubber, when I tried to syncronize the carbs the middle 2 wouldnt move so must be a leak in the old ones I couldn't find. Fingers crossed this is the last of the issues so I can focus on the visuals. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
So bearings came in, went to fit them and they were supposed to be the tappered ones. But mega zip says its supposed to be the flat ones. They not expensive just a pain for the month wait. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
The old Lower racer was warped and seized (explains why my bearings were bad) so ended up cutting it out. I thought if I froze the new racer it would be easier to press in and I was right. But in replacing the fork seals for some reason I put the bushing in before the tube and now I can't get it out. Is there a way to get it out or will I have to cut it and get new bushings? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
The teflon coated bronze busing which goes over the chrome fork stanchion? If it is that, I would get a washer of as close to the fork tube diameter as possible, grind two side down so that it slips through the bushing - rope through the hole in the washer and see if you can feed it through and level it off to draw it back out without damaging the inside of the tube finesse will be the key as you don't want scratches on anything
Yeah it is that bushing, there's a lip that the thing is butted up against so can't get anything behind it. The coating it pretty shot anyway so I might as well replace them all. Be about $70 through partzilla so not too bad will just have to sit in pieced a little longer Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk