Fuel tap bolt spacings?

/Sigh

I still have the bogging issue. I've got some symptoms which hopefully will help diagnosing it.

Floats are at 13mm, fuel screws are out 2.5 turns.

-Riding on the highway 1/8 throttle, if I crack it open, it sometimes bogs or stumbles for a second then BOOM it kicks me in the pants and takes off.


-Sometimes boggy when revving out midrange, feels powerful and strong at full throttle.

-Feels crackly and not making full power at when riding out gears not at full throttle.

-Emulsion tubes, needles and jets looks good, not rounded etc. Maybe they are bad and I can't see it.

I hear you can fine tune fuel screws by turning them while the bike is running and warm, turning one at a time and listening to get the highest revs.

 

errrghhhhhhh I just had the tank off to fiddle with the bike again an out of curiosity I tested the voltage of the battery, it was 12.2-12.3V off, and with it running it was the same, and then revving it out it only increased to 12.6V...

Could this be my problem? Or perhaps just another problem all together

 

Yeah I think I've diagnosed the rectifier as the fault. Alternator wires should put out 25vac @ 4k rpm which mine all did. Resistance between the same wires should be between 0.05 and 0.6 ohms which mine were.
Replacement rectifier coming through from kiffsta, cheers man.

Also when I first got it running I charged the battery which would explain why it ran well at the start but got slightly worse over time.

Will try a carby clean like you described if this isn't the problem.

Thanks for input

 

/long exasperating sigh

Swapped out the old rectifier for the new old one, voltage is much better now.

Problem is, that POS boggyness is still there.

The new rectifier seemed to make an improvement, revving past the bogging somewhat easier than before (better spark?) so the question now is is it still electrical or not.. I could be imagining this though so yeah..

Bike seems to run fine cold, and these problems occur after approx 10min into a ride. So that would mean its a hot problem..
Rich problems get worse as they heat up, so do electrical problems..

Also going up the hill, the spurting and bogging has a distinct sound, like chattering or clapping, not the usual bog sound like burbling etc.

I will probably pull the spark plugs and check condition when I have time. Maybe even replace them even though they are new (few months old).

So the battle continues haha.

 

So I pulled the plugs today and I'll let the picture do some talking. It seems plugs #3 and 4 are actually a little bit blacker than the other two. I'm not sure what this could be. Bike runs crappier when warm.. Now I'm thinking more electrical than anything.. Perhaps rich problem in both rhs carbs and a workmate just suggested worn rings..

 

I just did clearances a few months ago, some of my clearances were so tight! Rechecked them afterwards and they all within spec. New plugs are in, my guess is it will run sweet for a while then turn to crap.

I thought the plugs looked odd, 2 looking more blackened.

 

Just hopped on the bike for a blat to uni and it still has a shitfit up hill on barely opened throttle, this is with new plugs. Seemed a little better but I can't be certain. Seems to happen when warm, 10 or so minutes into riding.

This weekend I'm gonna pull my coils and resistance test them, also going to sync carbies as I remember you sync carbs #1#2 as a bank, then #3 and #4 as another bank, then you sync the two banks together. My thoughts are perhaps one bank is out.. Maybe.. Ha

If coils tests are good I may pull the carbs for finer cleaning and all that.

If it doesn't work after this then it might be off to the mechanic lol

 

Prior to getting the bike on the road (clearances and all that) I did install brand new ht leads, the copper type. I did have trouble getting the old fittings to work with the new wire though on the coil end.

There's a little screw cap on the lead which screws onto the coil and uses a rubber stop on the lead to keep pressure on the wire. Might redo them when I test coils.

Thanks man

 

More chapters of the zxr chronicles.

Spark leads and coil leads were kinda mixed up but were exactly opposite to what the manual specifies, so it still worked. Regardless, changed it back to stock, coil resistance tested fine, cleaned contacts and all that- still ran crap.

Turned fuel screws in 1/4 to 2 & 1/4 out and the bike spat the dummy earlier in the ride than before. Makes me wanna turn them out to 2 & 3/4..

Gonna get hold of a carb sync tool and get them 100% also.

Just a quick question about fine tuning fuel screws for the highest idle- do you tune them one at a time to get tyhe highest idle, or turn them all bit by bit to achieve highest idle?