/ Register

  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Fuel tap bolt spacings?

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by edwardo, Mar 3, 2015.

Page 3 of 3
  1. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    192
    Trophy Points:
    273
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Teacher
    Location:
    Adelaide
    My Bike:
    srx250
    Cheers! All the vids I could find were introductory and we're on dirtbikes with one carb. Just wasn't too sure the process for multi carbs.

    I do know the bike needs to be well warm and you need to do some light blips frequently. And basically listen to to the engine and revs.

    I also read to back off the screws a tiny bit (not sure how much) after highest revs are achieved. Does that sound right?
     
    edwardo, Mar 30, 2015
    #41
  2. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

    Messages:
    5,114
    Likes Received:
    3,480
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Thailand
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR400 3TJ1, Honda MC22
    All correct and the last one is open to debate. Some people set dead in the middle and some a tad rich, as you described.
     
    maelstrom, Mar 30, 2015
    #42
  3. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    192
    Trophy Points:
    273
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Teacher
    Location:
    Adelaide
    My Bike:
    srx250
    All kinds of angry right now. No matter what amount of tuning I do, that bogging keeps prevailing and ruining me.

    I tried to tune fuel screws individually but I don't have the skill or experience to do it right, also burnt seven shades of **** out of my hands whilst doing it.

    I have had- fuel level high, fuel level low, fuel screws at 2, 2 1/4, 2 1/2, and I remember having them at 3ish and no dice. I have replaced all vac hoses on the bike, even cable tied up ones that felt loose (no hose clamps available).

    Hopefully sync carbs tomorrow if I can get hold of a sync tool, it may or may not be out but I'd rather get that done anyways.

    I just went for a long ride and it ran like crap. At times it went well, but mostly crap after sitting at lights and going uphill. Sometimes I can rev clean from the bog, sometimes it sticks around at WOT. I am just about done ha.

    Has anyone heard of putting some kind of gasket between the engine and carb holders? Mine had none, perhaps heat expansion can open and close gaps? This goes under the radar at idle because it doesn't get hot enough. It just seems like some kind of heat/electrical issue, which is hard to diagnose when I'm sitting on my bike at speed with a multimeter haha
     
    edwardo, Mar 30, 2015
    #43
  4. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,428
    Likes Received:
    1,173
    Trophy Points:
    823
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Dispatch Manager
    Location:
    Beenleigh
    My Bike:
    NONE
    Have you squirted carb cleaner around the hoses and carb boots to rule out any vacuum leaks? I have mulled over the idea of a tiny bit of gasket goo under the carb boots as mine still leak and its pissed me off to no end trying to get rid of the vacuum leak.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    Th3_Huntsman, Mar 30, 2015
    #44
  5. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    192
    Trophy Points:
    273
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Teacher
    Location:
    Adelaide
    My Bike:
    srx250
    Yeah I have tried but I can't be certain.. I'll do it tomorrow and put it to bed haha

    The ones I got from kiffsta had traces of some kind of white rubber gasket goo stuff.. This has me thinking ha.
     
    edwardo, Mar 30, 2015
    #45
  6. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,428
    Likes Received:
    1,173
    Trophy Points:
    823
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Dispatch Manager
    Location:
    Beenleigh
    My Bike:
    NONE
    Give it a go can't hurt as long as you are careful (do not put too much and get any in the engine as that will hurt) Get Threebond liquid gasket from repco for it. If it works I'll do the same haha.
     
    Th3_Huntsman, Mar 30, 2015
    #46
  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

    Messages:
    5,114
    Likes Received:
    3,480
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Thailand
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR400 3TJ1, Honda MC22
    The problem you have described as only occurring once the bike is hot or has been running for some time.
    I think you have done all the obvious carb checks. If the bike performs well until it is hot and then begins to break down it points to fuel starvation or electrical. It seems you have already ruled the first one out.
    Static coil tests are a guide they can still break down when hot just as the Ignition Control Unit can. But they will break down at a given rpm and higher, not an rpm range that clears when higher.
    We cannot tell much from the description of bogging, clacking or chattering. Are you sure it is not detonation? The ignition unit changes the ignition timing according to the rpm and I imagine would be capable of creating the issues you are having. I would swap that one out and see what happens. In any case the fact that the bike has no problem until it reaches temperature is the best clue that you have.

    Any bike can have problems and the older they get the more problems they can have. Electrical parts do not last forever. They may not have moving parts but they have cycles to failure. If your bike has a problem then you have to accept that you have to go through a tedious process to find the problem. There is very little we can do to help over the internet and if your bike only has one problem then by definition most of the advice that is given has to be wrong, including mine :)
    cheers
    Blair
     
    • Like Like x 4
    maelstrom, Mar 30, 2015
    #47
  8. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,737
    Likes Received:
    1,399
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2014
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Switzerland
    My Bike:
    SV1000SK3
    Take your plugs out and test each one (one by one) by earthing it on the engine or the frame (don't hold it or be prepared for serious entertainment) and test your spark. I'm with Maelstrom on this and leaning towards an electrical issue.
     
    • Like Like x 2
    Joker, Mar 31, 2015
    #48
  9. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    192
    Trophy Points:
    273
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Teacher
    Location:
    Adelaide
    My Bike:
    srx250
    I put a bit of gasket stuff on the carb boots, I don't think it changed much.

    Testing the cdi unit will be next, the manual tests look pretty extensive haha.

    Definitely accepting the fact my bike is currently a dud and I'll have to go through it bit by bit. It still rides and everything, just the nagging problem sits in the back of my head every time I ride. Sure makes riding unenjoyable.

    Will test spark, as well as other electrical tests.

    Thanks everyone for the help. I know it seems like I'm just here for answers but I am trying hard to nut this one out too!

    Cheers guys.
     
    • Like Like x 2
    edwardo, Mar 31, 2015
    #49
  10. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,737
    Likes Received:
    1,399
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2014
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Switzerland
    My Bike:
    SV1000SK3
    There's not really any testing you can do on a CDI without some pretty advanced equipment. Don't waste your time - just try and source another working one if you're really that concerned. Some of the guys here may be able to help.

    As for the rest, I'd be looking closely at your stator and coils. There's not a whole lot on a bike electrically that can fail but both of those are things that could cause running problems when increased current is demanded (at WOT etc).

    Sure, the CDI could be the culprit but if your plugs are firing in the right sequence with the right amount of spark your CDI is doing what it needs to do.
     
    Joker, Mar 31, 2015
    #50
  11. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

    Messages:
    5,114
    Likes Received:
    3,480
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Thailand
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR400 3TJ1, Honda MC22
    A static test of the CDI unit (which is not really a CDI) may be a bit pointless because you reported that there is no problem when it is cold.
     
    maelstrom, Mar 31, 2015
    #51
Page 3 of 3

Share This Page