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Help FZR 250 2KR Carb rebuild

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Slugger, Jun 21, 2016.

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  1. jazzhunt

    jazzhunt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    jazzhunt, Jun 24, 2016
    #21
  2. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Yeah, good point. Wasn't thinking of this, and that the bodies are alloy. An impact screwdriver might be a risk then.
    Sounds like cutting across the screw, so that a flat blade screwdriver fits might be the best option. And, heating them up with a heat gun.
    Cheers everybody for your advice. It might be another frustrating day tommorrow..
     
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    Slugger, Jun 24, 2016
    #22
  3. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Ok guys, had a spare 15 minutes. Went and cut across the screw head on two of them, sprayed Inox at the rear of the screw, and around the head. Waited 15 minutes, used a heat gun and then tried to unscrew with a flat blade screwdriver, FU%k they were on tight!!! But, i did manage to unscrew them. Success!! Now for the next 6..
    upload_2016-6-24_21-13-40.jpeg
     
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    Slugger, Jun 24, 2016
    #23
  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You could try using a thick rubber band over the screw slot's and push your screwdriver into the head, this can help by filling the gouged slot's
    Another thing to try is use some valve grinding paste on the end/tip of your screwdriver, this can help the tip to grip into the screw head.
     
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    my67xr, Jun 24, 2016
    #24
  5. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Where in melb are you mate? I'm up NW I have some JIS screwdrivers...
     
    Joker, Jun 25, 2016
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  6. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Thanks Joker, but i have a set of JIS screwdrivers. The problem is the person that dismantled them before didn't. And the screws are all butchered. And they are on so tight, and because the screws are already damaged, the JIS screwdriver is a bit loose on them, and starts to slip and damage them more. I got most of them off now, except 6. Going to cut across the screw head so a flat blade screwdriver fits. That seems to work best.

    Thanks for your offer though. :thumb_ups::thumb_ups::thumb_ups:

    Oh, and i'm NW Melb as well.
     
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    Slugger, Jun 25, 2016
    #26
  7. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh I've had to do that before... not the most fun activity. If you need a hand sometime let me know, I have a 3LN3 which is a bit different but I'm always curious.

    Well if you're around west melbourne sort of area, find club250 on facebook and join in the fun there too :) If I can get things finalised I may be able to hook you up with a permit when you're up and running for cheap rego lol.
     
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    Joker, Jun 25, 2016
    #27
  8. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Mate, thanks for the offer. You're a champion:thumb_ups:. I'll PM you if i need some help.
    And i'll look up facebook. It might be a while until i am up and running, so you have plenty of time to get things finalised:)
    Cheers.
     
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    Slugger, Jun 25, 2016
    #28
  9. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Ok guys, an update on the diaphram cover screws. I used a Dremel to cut a straight line across the screw head. Sprayed inox on them, waited about 15 minutes, heated with a heat gun, and used a flat blade screwdriver to get them off. With much cursing and swearing at them, they eventually all came off. This, for me, is the best way to remove them.
    But, you can see there has been some damage (to my thumb!!!:D). I also put a small nick on the throttle cable holder, but that's no problem.
    I now have all those ugly screws off, never to be seen again. Haven't taken the covers off yet.. I thought i might celebrate my conquest with a beer (or 2, or...):drinks:... Anyway, i have now decided that beers are a better option. The diaphrams and what they look inside can wait until tomorrow.
    upload_2016-6-26_16-30-24.jpeg
     
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    Slugger, Jun 26, 2016
    #29
  10. jazzhunt

    jazzhunt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I always refer to scrapes like that as "The Blood Sacrifice" and, once the sacrifice is made, I have absolute confidence that the repair/rebuild/install will work perfectly :)
     
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    jazzhunt, Jun 26, 2016
    #30
  11. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Is this Diaphram still good? On the top around the ring, they are cracked, and on one spot (circled), you can see through the crack in the rubber to what looks like steel mesh (?). But they are all ok everywhere else, and on the other side as well - no cracks in the rubber.
    I think the top cover sits on these edges, so they must have been squshed?

    I don't really know, but are they still ok? Can they be repaired if they are damaged? Are there aftermarket ones that can be purchased? The part number is 1HX-14940-01, but they are no longer available from Yamaha (and too expensive anyway even if they were).
    upload_2016-6-26_22-59-7.jpeg

    Any help or suggestions?
     
    Slugger, Jun 26, 2016
    #31
  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Take them out very careful, I'd coat them in inox before trying.

    Black Sikaflex, or vulcanizing rubber (same stuff used to seal tyre mushroom plugs) should do the trick if applied carefully, and allowed to cure properly.
     
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    Linkin, Jun 26, 2016
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  13. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Ok, that's great. Thanks. :thumb_ups:
    So, i do need to repair them? They are no good like this?

    But what type of Sikaflex do you recommend? There seems to be different products.. 252, 221, 227, and Blackwoods sell one called "Sikaflex Auto & PU Black" ?
     
    Slugger, Jun 26, 2016
    #33
  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Not sure on sikaflex - ask risky.

    Those diaphragms are shot. Pressure/vacuum acts on them lifting the needle out of the emulsion tube, against the spring. If there is air leaking through the diaphragm, it will mess up the tuning and not run properly.
     
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    Linkin, Jun 26, 2016
    #34
  15. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Thanks for the good news:headbang:

    (But, i have taken it out, and the inside is all in tact, no cracks, no breaks. So, they still will seal, won't they? I will still repair the top, but they aren't that bad if they are not cracked or pierced all the way through, are they?) I need some good news for a change:(
     
    Slugger, Jun 26, 2016
    #35
  16. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I use Sikaflex 227 to seal rubber etc, i have stuck my carby boot's to the bottom of the airbox with it too
    Fuel and oil resistant, and heat resistant too

    [​IMG]
     
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    my67xr, Jun 26, 2016
    #36
  17. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    I have done some quick research, and found that the Hyosung GT250 uses the same carb (Mikuni BDS 26), and the part number for the Diaphram for this is 13338HG5100.
    Now, does anybody know whether this is intercahgeable with the FZR 2kr carby? Has anybody tried, or does anybody know? I searched online, and the pictures look the same as the ones on my carb. Not sure about the throat diameter or the top diameter, but if the carb model numbers are the same (BDS26), should they be the same?
    Any help or advice appreciated.
     
    Slugger, Jun 27, 2016
    #37
  18. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    GreyImport, Jun 27, 2016
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  19. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Ha ha. That's exactly the site i went to when i saw that they use the same carb.
    Yes, they are expensive, but are they the same part? Because if i only need one, then i might be willing to pay $40 for a brand new one..
     
    Slugger, Jun 27, 2016
    #39
  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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