NOTE edit for clairty - this is for a 3LN1 - further into the thread someone with a 3LN3 encountered issues with my dog bone length. Now I've trawled through the impex catalogues for the 3LN1, 3LN3/5 and 3LN6/7 - they give the same part number for the linkage for all of the above Impex may be in error, but unless someone can compare the linkages from a 3LN1 and 3LN3/5/6/7 the method I would use to determine dogbone length is to prop the back at the correct height, remove the OEM shock, fit the new one and measure what you need for the length of the dogbones In the interest of sharing knowledge I'm going to make this howto, my links and documentation are long gone at least two laptops ago... OK guys, no info to hand because it's been a long time since I did this conversion, but the old girls is about to be dragged out of storage and I'll run back through what I did. I forget which year R6 shock it was, it's been that long. It was a straight fit up onto the mounts, the dogbones need to remade shorter. This is where I deviated from the recipe because I went shorter on the dogbones than what was required to get back to standard ride height, because I went one wider on the rear tyre and one lower on the profile. I liked the result. So I'll get some figures and see what I can recall about the process in coming days peace out Glenn
OK so I took some measurements and photos My dogbones are 117.5mm long hole centre to hole centre. They are crude because I made them out of steel flat bar that I had to hand, I had always intended to remake them out of shiny stainless when time permitted, that just never eventuated Please keep in mind that the shorter than normal dogbones went it concert with a 140/70 - 17 rear tyre. Also you can see the amount of material I removed from the battery support to accommodate the upper shock reservoir. The most difficult part of the process if you can call it that was finding an R6 shock locally for a good price, heaps of them in the US, shipping costs are the killer because of the weight. IIRC I paid $120 which was great.
OK so it's all coming back to me, it needs to be an '06-'07 R6R rear shock - I suspect that '08 onwards MAY work, but there may be other differences in later models making them unsuitable so I wouldn't get one sent from OS without checking thoroughly beforehand to avoid dsapppointment The R6R is important if you're trawling ebay US because there's an R6S which doesn't have the lower clevis which is needed for the Fizzer lower suspension linkage peace out Glenn
Nice, thank's for the write up. Is this for the 2KR, 3LN1, 3LN3 etc etc ? Found this online, 2005 onward's are 300.5mm eye to eye with 62.5mm stroke Vamaha YZF R6 1999-2002 305 +4/-2 mm 62 mm Yamaha YZF R6 2003-2004 295 +S,5/-0,S mm 62.S mm Yamaha YZF R6 2005-on 300.5 +0/- 6 mm 62,5 mm The Ohlin's rear shock mention's theire YA339 R6 shock fit's 2006 - 2015 R6 model's http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohlins-TTX-GP-Shock-2006-2015-Yamaha-YZF-R6-YA339-New-TTX-GP-/271657712103 293mm +5mm/-1mm http://kglracing.com/shop/motorbike...aha/ohlins_shock_yamaha_yzf_r6_2006-14_ya_339
mines is a 3LN1, perhaps safe to assume it will work on 3ln3 onwards etc I am uncertain as to whether or not the changeover would work on a 2KR, if it uses the same upper and lower mount points and types - on the shock - eyelet upper and clevis lower then it should work -> if the length is approximately correct and the dogbone length can be altered to get ride height back to where it should be. My memory on the differences between R6 shocks from different years isn't 100%, however I believe earlier years had different lower mounts - eyelets instead of the clevis making them unsuitable. Check this page - seems to indicate convincingly that 2006 onwards as the 2005 has different mounts http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/56-suspension-settings/383833-2006-r6-rear-shock-2005-r6.html peace out Glenn
No mate ..... its one of 100 bike jobs on the list ..... I still have the chugging problem and have a set of tubes/needles ready to put in the carbs. Apart from that the bike goes pretty good and managed to be very enjoyable on its first long distance experience. http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/nsw-qld-meet-and-greet-2016.8455/page-5#post-87548
Hmmm I hate it when great ideas are in here and there is an opportunity to grab the appropriate bits to make it happen... This auction http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132077453236?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT is a great price and my calculations on freight to here is approx $70... based on it being 4kg etc... Only 10 hrs to go on the Auction... I might have to have a lash at this for the SRX250 (it definitely fits the 3WP swingarm as it is a popular mod in japan racing series too)
It definitely will fit the mounts.. not sure what other mods I will need to do for battery tray / airbox etc but what the heck... the bike wont even be close to standard anyway and it will be substantially lighter the the FZR so some adjustability would be good. Now to just win the Auction...lol
Just watch out on postage from him, he is asking for $47 AU to send an ally thermostat housing to australia http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/09-Yamah...575475?hash=item544289bb33:g:g4IAAOSwcF9UWDx8 He is selling a similar shock to that R6 one but postage on that is only $48 AU http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/13-Kawas...201384?hash=item5438bd94e8:g:w1QAAOSwvzRXxi6X
I have asked for Postage in the US... I will use Borderlinx for shipping to Aus.. I control the freight that way
just pondering here, but would shortening the dog bones not result in a stiffer feeling shock as there is less leverage on the links??? does it effect the geometry all that much?? seriously considering this mod
to regain standard ride height the dog bones should be reduced from 130mm hole centres to 122mm hole centres - I went shorter to change steering geometry slightly. All changes I found to be positive BTW you don't modify the dog bones - you will need shorter ones so there's no irreversible modifications
OK.. well I am not sure which model FZR the original was fitted to but the top mount on this shock is quite a bit narrower and will need spacers for it to work.. at least on my SRX and the FZR LN1 that my original shock came off... You can see from the pics below the difference in the width on the top mount... bottom mount is perfect and overall length is within 3mm of being perfect... so not a big issue. I am certainly going to need to modify the mount on the SRX to fit it in... maybe a little bit of extra bracing will be needed if I have to cut too much out. Last one shows the FZR shock in position
OK you've just caused the collision of some output from firing neurons within my memory... I had to put on a single washer each side of the upper shock eyelet to fit within the FZR mount snugly and not move side to side. That said however, the width difference was nowhere as large as what you've got there - what's the actual width difference as measured?