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Project FZR250 2KR 3HX1 resto-1project

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by BlackBladeDesign, Aug 2, 2018.

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  1. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    What's the reason for 15w 40/50 rather than the spec 10w 30/40(can't remember which, it's written under the filler cap)? does the thicker viscosity make any noticeable differences? Does it foam less etc?
     
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 21, 2018
    #41
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Nah it's just what they sell, and is good for the price, they do have Castrol 10W40 Power 1 GPS but it's almost twice the price
    The 50 part mean's it has to be at least a 50 grade viscosity @ 100° C
    Generally you can go 1 range higher or lower without doing any damage

    Using a lower viscosity oil mean's it'll flow a bit easier, a lot of new car's etc run a lower viscosity oil to help reduce friction and with modern engine's the clearance's are smaller, thinner oil transfer's heat better than thicker and it help's with fuel economy due to less friction

    Higher viscosity oil's help keep oil pressure up in higher mileage car's and bike's, and help's older engine's by compensating for wear and bigger bearing clearance's etc.

    I wouldn't use the 50 grade if my bike had low km's, but mine has 60,000km's on it now
     
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    my67xr, Aug 21, 2018
    #42
  3. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    So being that the mileage is unknown, but it can be assumed(due to the overall extreme cleanliness internally) that it has been rebuilt at one point, or has had more than regular service intervals, should I just go with 10w 30/40? Or go with 15w 40 to be safe
     
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 21, 2018
    #43
  4. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Go with what the bike manufacturer recommends. They would have spent a lot of time and money designing the engine to use a certain oil, and that is what goes best. You can go a little thicker but not too much or your bike wont have the power get up hills.
     
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    Murdo, Aug 21, 2018
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  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The FZR250R 3LN3 Yamaha Service Manual list's ;

    10W30 for -20 degree's C up to 50 degree's C
    20W40 for -12 degree's C up to 52 degree's C
    10W50 for -25degree's C up to 60 degree's C
     
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    my67xr, Aug 21, 2018
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  6. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    Are the slides vacuum operated? There's two (I'm pretty sure) vacuum fittings on the carby, I don't know where they connect to though. I was guessing by the design of the carby that that was how the slides function, but I don't know.
     
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 25, 2018
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  7. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah there vacuum operated, the 2x vent's on the front top of the carby's are vent's for the vacuum diaphram's, they have a short hose with a right angled filter on them, they're not connected to anything
     
    my67xr, Aug 25, 2018
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  8. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    What's the firing order? (And if I'm sitting on the bike, how at the cylinders numbered from left to right?

    Picked up coils and cdi today
     
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 25, 2018
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  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    GreyImport, Aug 25, 2018
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  10. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    Reasons for ridiculously high idle? 4-5k.
    It was sitting at around 1600(guesstimate) then it just spiked up to 4-5k and sat there
     
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 25, 2018
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  11. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Too lean, possibly a vacuum leak from the intake's ?
    Start the bike and let it idle, spray some wd40 on the intake boot's,
    if the idle speed / sound changes in any way then there's a leak
     
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    my67xr, Aug 25, 2018
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  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You have an air leak, or it is seriously lean on the mixture screws. Try starting at 3 full turns out from lightly seated.

    Air leaks on the fizzers are simple... carb boots or airbox boots. There are no vacuum lines to deal with.
     
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    Linkin, Aug 25, 2018
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  13. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    Thanks for the info guys, I'll try and get it right tomorrow when the neighbors aren't trying to sleep ahaha.
    I got the parts for the exup valve I was missing today and the servo. Just need some cables now
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 26, 2018
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  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If your outer cable sheaths are in good condition, use this exup repair kit

    https://www.venhill.co.uk/u01-11-100.html

    If you don't have any cables, something off another model with EXUP should do in a pinch
     
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    Linkin, Aug 26, 2018
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  15. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    I haven't really come across an issue like this before. It has moments where it will start and run for a while without a little bit, and other times where it's virtually impossible to get it to fire. I had it going today after taking a looking at the intake rubbers, they are old and crappy but the bike ran and maintained a steady 1600-1700 idle.

    The diaghprams aren't pinched, all the slides go up like they're meant to. I can't visibly see fuel entering any of the carby throats though.

    Something's up with cylinder 4 too, some pressure came out of it at one point
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 26, 2018
    #55
  16. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    The popping sounds isn't knock by the way, the headers weren't bolted on tight enough when I recorded the video
     
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    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 26, 2018
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  17. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    my67xr, Aug 26, 2018
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  18. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Smokin

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    anywhere I can buy replacements for the rubbers between the carb and air box? they're really hard and virtually impossible to get on. I really don't want to put 4 crappy pod filters on it.
     
    BlackBladeDesign, Aug 28, 2018
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  19. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    History in here says it wont run right if you do put Pods on... FZR250 carby setup will test your patience even when you have everything correct.. :)
    I think @my67xr managed to find some Carb to airbox rubbers.. hopefully they are easy to get...
     
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    Andych, Aug 28, 2018
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  20. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I found a brand new set on ebay for my 3LN3, and you can buy them new from Yamaha
    Don't think the 2KR boot's are available new though?

    Have you tried softening them in boiling water, or using a heat gun, then smear them in rubber grease and they can normally be stretched enough to fit.

    Another member here made his own airbox boot's with some reinforced 3 ply Silicon radiator hose with a 48mm i/d.
    Not sure how long they lasted as petrol can eat into normal radiator hose and it doesn't like silicon hose either
    It might be ok as there's not that much fuel/air mix getting blown back out the inlet's ?
    https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?thre...lve-and-what-3ln1-2kr-parts-interchange.8049/

    cf555f0f0d75fb1a24688e536fefc669.jpg


    https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=air+box+boots&_sacat=0

    Otherwise you might be able to adapt some off another bike, the 2KR are longer then 3LN3, and are tuned length so you'd need to get the length close too
    Form memory they look close to these, but might be angled a bit ?

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine...175205?hash=item5b498fa765:g:A14AAOSwBmpbOp9g

    s-l500.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2018
    my67xr, Aug 28, 2018
    #60
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