1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Help FZR250 2KR Water pump replacement + Clutch replacement

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Brandon Otte, Apr 2, 2020.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    4,308
    Likes Received:
    2,360
    Trophy Points:
    898
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    Have you tried backing off the clutch cable adjuster at the clutch lever ?
    Might only need to be backed off 1 turn
    There's another adjustment near the other end of the cable too
    And there is an adjuster screw with locknut in the middle of the clutch pressure plate too, your's looks to be wound in a fair way but may be ok

    The exhaust gasket's will stay in the head when you remove the header pipe's

    10W30 is the standard oil for them, just watch out how thick you go as these 250's rev pretty high
    I use mineral oil or semi synthetic oil in my 3LN3, i change it every 5000km's or when it change's colour which ever come's first

    The Motul 5100 mineral oil is available in 10W30, 10W40, 10W50 and 15W50
    Motul 7100 synthetic come's in 5W40, 10W40, 10W50, 10W60, 15W50, 20W50
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2020
  2. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

    Messages:
    4,124
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Trophy Points:
    923
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Thailand
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR400 3TJ1, Honda MC22
    Just wondering, why did you soak the clutch plates in oil overnight?
     
  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    4,308
    Likes Received:
    2,360
    Trophy Points:
    898
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
  4. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    53
    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2020
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 2KR 88
    @my67xr I have played around with the cable adjustment at the handle bars but not at the gearbox. I did notice with the lever fully out and the cable slightly slack I can move the lever at the gearbox end about 5mm till it hits the stop. I didn't realise there was an adjuster screw in the clutch basket itself - should I have reset that out?
    As for the oil 10w30 is what I used and yeah that's right it is semi-synthetic.
    @maelstrom I soaked the friction plates to allow the cork to absorb oil and not bite so hard - have been told it will quite harsh initially. Obviously they soak in oil almost all the time while in the bike and fill with oil.
     
  5. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    53
    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2020
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 2KR 88
    When I replaced the clutch I didn't have a replacement gasket for the housing, I winged it and just RTV sealed the tears in the original gasket with much success. Not a drop of oil :) I wouldn't recommend doing this, I only did because I couldn't source a replacement one.
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    4,308
    Likes Received:
    2,360
    Trophy Points:
    898
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    I think the adjustment on the pressure plate might be holding the pressure plate away from the clutch pack a little with it being done up so much.

    I would be taking the clutch cover back off the engine and loosen the 10mm headed locknut, then unscrew the screw in the centre 2 full turn's out, then do up the locknut
    Refit the clutch cover, start the bike and try out the clutch to see if it slip's now
    You may need to readjust the cable a little to suit

    Also in the first picture below,
    when you have the clutch apart next time, make sure the ball bearing doesn't drop out and fall into your sump before you refit the pressure plate.
    Your's should be there still if the clutch is working now, but it can happen sometime's

    clutch ball.jpg pressure plate.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    53
    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2020
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 2KR 88
    @my67xr do you know where I can buy a replacement clutch cover gasket before I do adjust that screw?
    Also how far out will the screw go and if I do it out too far can I just screw it back in a turn or two without anything behind it potentially falling away?
    I guess there’s no harm in an early oil change - I do still need to change the filter anyway. Any idea how to stop the EXUP valve rattling while I have the headers off?
    I didn’t even realise there was a ball bearing there, the bike was on its stand when I did the clutch in the driveway one night, I did have a good look in the sump for anything that may have fallen so it should still be in place. Just to confirm though it’s only the clutch cover off, loosen the lock nut, adjust the screw and resecure...
     
  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

    Messages:
    5,669
    Likes Received:
    4,289
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Tamworth, NSW
    My Bike:
    1938 Royal Enfield 250, CF 250 V5 and 650TK, XL250, CBR250, plus a few others.
    As always, what does the manual say to adjusting the screw?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  9. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    53
    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2020
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 2KR 88
    Good question I need to check that manual. It’s about time I paid the small donation on this forum to gain access :thumb_ups:
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  10. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    3,241
    Likes Received:
    1,746
    Trophy Points:
    898
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Sydney
    My Bike:
    1987 Yamaha SRX250, Honda 1975 CB400F, Honda 1991 250 Spada, Honda CT110 1986 Postie Bike
    If yours isnt an EXUP bike then remove the internal flap valve which is the EXUP. You will most likely need to make up a blanking plate though.
    If it is an EXUP bike, get the correct CDI etc and do it properly as there is more to it than just a valve in the exhaust.
    As per what @Murdo said... read the manual and adjust it as per that...then ask questions if it still isnt working as it should :)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    4,308
    Likes Received:
    2,360
    Trophy Points:
    898
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    53
    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2020
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 2KR 88
    @Andych it is an EXUP bike, it works fine and the cable tolerances are good. It’s the rattling valve in the brass sleeve which I want to repair.
    Thanks @my67xr
     
  13. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    3,241
    Likes Received:
    1,746
    Trophy Points:
    898
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Sydney
    My Bike:
    1987 Yamaha SRX250, Honda 1975 CB400F, Honda 1991 250 Spada, Honda CT110 1986 Postie Bike
    No worries... I think I mixed your issue up with another bike on here with similar issues (both FZR's) that made the comment he didnt have the EXUP connected as he didnt have the right CDI..... I should read back a page or 2 before commenting.. apologies.
    The FZR I had (as a spares bike) when I pulled the EXUP apart to sell to a guy in Canada I found the carbon bearing on the inside (furthest from the actuator) had worn to the point it fell apart.. Its a messy job in there with all the carbon though.
     

Share This Page