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Help FZR250 Temp gauge rises when lights are turned on?

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Brandon Otte, Mar 12, 2020.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Try measuring the resistance through the sender unit,
    positive wire from the multimeter to the sender units' terminal and negative wire from the multimeter to the brass body of the temp sender unit
     
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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The Black wire to the gauge is also an earth to the dash light's,
    Try putting a wire from the screw that holds the black wire to the back of the gauge and run the other end of the wire to earth on the engine, see if that make's any difference to what the gauge is doing


    You still have the thermostat housing grounded to frame/engine don't you ?
     
  3. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    He's done that, gauge correctly reads full deflection to hottest temperature

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...lights-are-turned-on.10840/page-6#post-132953

    So there's some other resistance to ground somewhere which is giving higher than actual readings
     
  4. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    Okay I have wired a new sensor wire from gauge to sensor. Warming up as I type. Measured voltage at the gauge and it’s 12volts with lights off and drops to 11 with lights on. This is with the old sensor wire disconnected. image.jpg
     
  5. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    And the question on everybody's lips, we're all quivering with suspense

    Does it deflect further up the range when you turn on the lights?
     
  6. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg image.jpg And here is lights off and lights on lads!
     
  7. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    Finally! Thank you guys so much!
     
  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    So what voltage is at the battery when it's running if your positive to the sender is only showing 11v with the headlight's on ?
     
  9. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    With the engine off it reads 12.5v and drops to 12.4v.

    Uhh sorry guys I feel like an idiot now. Started putting her back together and found once I had plugged in the headlights the problem came back. Unplug one head light, doesn’t matter which one and it goes away. Any ideas? I already wired in the new sensor wire thinking it was definitely that :(
     
  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Use your Multimeter set to 200 Ohm's, put one lead from you meter to the black wire on the the back of the temp gauge and the other lead from the meter to the harness earth black wire, it come's out of the main harness near the 3 white wire's for the stator.
    What reading do you get ?


    Your battery is only 80% charged too
     
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  11. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Don't apologise, we've eliminated the ground wire being the problem, now the puzzle becomes how are the lights interfering with the gauge current flow increasing when they're switched on and it isn't the ground through the sensor.

    So is there voltage at both the brown and green with a red stripe?
     
  12. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The confounding part of this is:
    V=IR
    Assume resistance to be a constant for calculation;
    Voltage and current are proportional, so when the lights come on, the voltage drops at the gauge, BUT the needle goes higher - that is counterintuitive

    Wondering if that power wire to the gauge is inappropriately going through a headlight circuit
    Positive line direct direct from battery positive

    I think the green with a red stripe plays a role as it goes to ground with the key off and is connected to the negative on the gauge, what does it go to or through
     
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  13. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The black wire is the only one connected to both the headlight bulb's and the Temperature gauge
    If there's a bad/dirty/corroded connection where the earth wire run's back to the frame or engine earth point that would cause the issue
     
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  15. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    OK, so here's the error, not in the reasoning, but in the assumption that the black is the earth signal wire for the temperature sensor unit - it's NOT, it's the green with a red stripe

    Check this schematic, it's for the FZR400, but I think you'll find exactly the same colour assignments on the FZR250 - the legend on the side for wire colours designate that same wire as green with a red stripe - hasn't your system already got a hard wired switch for the cooling fan installed

    It's not the temperature sensor, it's wherever that green/red goes that's been tampered with, that then goes on to the temperature sensor

    [​IMG]
     
  16. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Go back one step, put the loom black wire back onto the gauge, then connect the single distinct earth/signal wire between the terminal currently occupied by green/red wire terminal on the gauge directly to the temp sensor

    I don't think you will see gauge deflection any more when the light go on
     
  17. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I was just saying that the black wire on the back of the temp gauge is the only wire that is common to both the headlight bulb's dash light's and the temperature gauge.
    If there's a bad earth to the frame or engine, that could cause the gauge to rise as the resistance would be high with the headlight's on

    This doesn't make any sense to me ?
     
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  18. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Agreed, but for one thing, gauge rises with lowering resistance - that element doesn't make sense

    Jut read this thread - the temp sensor if it's got two connections seems to be responsible for the current flow as well as the fan turn on, do they have two, differentiated/labelled connections on top?
     
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The 2KR 3HX and 3LN temperature sensor has 1 wire, the Fan switch (thermal) has 2
     
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  20. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member

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    Clearly some confusion regarding wire colours. I would not trust the FZR400 wiring diagram as it shows a 2 terminal temp sender. I recall Brandon indicated he only has one wire going to his temp sender. Please confirm that you are looking at the correct sender. There are often 2. One is for the gauge and the other is a thermo switch for the radiator fan.

    Try disconnecting the temp sender wire. Turn the ignition on then measure the voltages at the 3 terminals on the rear of the gauge. Measure with the negative lead of you meter connected to the negative terminal of you battery.
    I expect you will find that 2 terminals appear to have zero volts and one has battery voltage.

    Now turn off the ignition. Put your meter on the resistance range (lowest ohm range) and measure between the wire that would normally connect to the sender (it should still be disconnected) and each of the terminals on the rear of the gauge in turn. The connection with the lowest resistance should be the direct connection from sender to gauge.

    This should allow you to deduce all connections.
    One will connect to battery voltage (since it does not look like there is an sort of separate voltage regulator for the instruments), one will connect to ground and the last one will connect to the temp sender.

    The suspicion that everyone seems to share is that voltage at the ground connection to the gauge is rising above zero when the lights are turned one (bad earthing somewhere) or the battery voltage connection is dropping when the lights are on (bad supply connection somewhere). You should be able to check this with your meter.

    Report back with all findings and measurements.

    Peter.
     
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