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Help Having trouble with my 2000 Suzuki GSF250v

Discussion in 'New Members Say Gday' started by Vincent Conte, Sep 30, 2016.

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  1. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    G'day, i'm new to the forum.
    I've recently bought a gsf250v 'bandit' and i love it. And this is my first roadbike.

    So basically the bike needs a jump start and runs like **** while on the jumper. The revs are not tight with the throtle. If i snap the throttle real quick it doesnt rev up it laggs and takes a way to get up revs. But doesnt die.

    When i remove it from the jumper leads it slowly dies. Depending howlong it has been on the jumpers.

    I suspect the stator/magneto but im so over my head i dont know where to start.
    If anyone has a wiring diagram that can help
     
    Vincent Conte, Sep 30, 2016
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  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    OK have you got a multimeter? Check the battery voltage when ignition is off, then on, and check the voltage drop when you crank the bike over & how long it takes to return to roughly 12 volts. You can also check the battery voltage when running the engine, raise the revs a bit to see if it is charging. If not, then you may have a failed regulator or stator.

    Probably a good idea to do a compression check. If the reading is low, add a tablespoon of oil down the spark plug hole and recheck. If the compression numbers increase then the piston rings are worn. If not, the valve clearance may be too tight.
     
    Linkin, Sep 30, 2016
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  3. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    Yeah i checked the volts. 12v when on the jumper. But asoon as i remove them they drop from 6v to 3v then dies. Wouldnt blown rings make it blow smoke? Which it isnt. But ill have a look at that . Cheers
     
    Vincent Conte, Sep 30, 2016
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  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Sounds like a dead battery. Got another you can test with? When you have a good battery check the voltage when the bike is running. Should be charging from 13-14.4 volts. Anything higher than that and the regulator has failed and is overcharging the battery. They can also fail and not charge the battery at all which sounds like your problem.
     
    Linkin, Sep 30, 2016
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  5. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    How do i check the stator? I want to ensure its buggered before i replace it?

    Brand new battery was fully charged when i first tried it but lost charge pretty quick
     
    Vincent Conte, Sep 30, 2016
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  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Charging system has failed then. Pull stator cover off. Check windings for damage or epoxy coming apart. Check magnetism of the rotor. Check the plug connecting to the reg/rec. If it's burnt you need to replace the plug, wiring, and reg/rec. and think about relocating it somewhere so it doesn't get as hot/has more airflow.

    If the rotor has little or no magnetism then you need a new one. Storing the bike with the stator off can cause the rotor to lose its magnetism.
     
    Linkin, Sep 30, 2016
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  7. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Is the bike actually running for any length of time? ..... or are u just continually trying to start it?
     
    GreyImport, Sep 30, 2016
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  8. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    What does the regrec look like?
     
    Vincent Conte, Sep 30, 2016
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  9. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    When i jumpstart it and leave the leads on it starts and runs ( but doesnt run well) and keeps running but if the leads have been on for say 10 mins and remove them it will run on its own accord for a little while but it will slowly die. And make the battery prettymuch dead
     
    Vincent Conte, Sep 30, 2016
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  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Part number 7 on this diagram

    [​IMG]
     
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    Linkin, Sep 30, 2016
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  11. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    GreyImport, Sep 30, 2016
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  12. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    This is the regulator/rectifier

    [​IMG]

    Your bike battery should be fully charged before you start testing it, eg over 12.6v
    Running the bike with a jump starter or car battery you can put extra load on the regulator/rectifier, this can cause them to overheat and fail so try not to run it for long while the jumper battery is connected
     
    my67xr, Sep 30, 2016
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  13. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    UPDATE:
    Tried testing me electronics on my own but i was way too complicated for my ability. I took it to the auto electrician. For testing and there is nothing wrong with the electronics ie stator/regrec.

    He said that its a fuel issue. He sprayed fuel into the air intake and it starts and runs on its own. There is fuel bowls of the carby but obviously isnt getting to the air to mix.

    Any ideas what it might be?
     
    Vincent Conte, Oct 17, 2016
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  14. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    There is fuel in the fuel bowls*
     
    Vincent Conte, Oct 17, 2016
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  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Blocked jets or blocked air jets/passages. Dismantle and soak in threebond engine conditioner or have the carb bodies and brass bits ultrasonically cleaned.
     
    Linkin, Oct 17, 2016
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  16. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Could be a couple of things. Spraying something into the air intake will make the fuel/air mix richer which could overcome either (1) poor compression or (2) blocked jets/carburetor issues.

    The second one is the easiest to check for the average joe, just drop the carbies off, take the bowls off the bottom and expose the jets then give them a general clean out with threebond engine conditioner and a strand of a wire brush (perhaps compressed air if you have it). Also look at your pilot jets and do those holes as well. Plenty of "how to's" around on the net most carbies have the same principles so even if it's not exactly the same give it a go and take photos of how it came apart if you're nervous about reassembling it the right way.

    I'd say have a crack and see how you go, if anything you'll learn something. There's a few people round here who can direct you if you get stuck :thumb_ups:
     
    Joker, Oct 17, 2016
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  17. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    Ok. Pulled the carbies of and gave them a good clean in the bowls, jets and needle. Being very careful put it back on and noticed a few of the vacume hoses and fuel lines were plugged up. After tinkering with where the might go. It finally effing started! I was so happy. But. I needed to adujst the throttle cable and idle. Turned the bike off and tried to start it again. And NEW problem -_-

    Everytime i try to start it now the " starter module" or relay thing clicks like hell and a masive clunking sound is comming from the engine area somwhere near the stator. I have alittle bit of knowledge about cars and it sounds similar to a faulty starter solinoid. But im not sure :/

    I'm kinda sick of all these problems. :(
     
    Vincent Conte, Oct 18, 2016
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  18. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    If it's clicking when you're trying to start it's probably the starter motor which isn't getting enough current for it to crank the engine over. It might just be your battery is flat now (or perhaps buggered). Throw it back on the jumpers and run it for a bit, see if that helps. Even better if you can test with a multimeter or leave on a trickle charger overnight.

    Bandits are great... when they run :p
     
    Joker, Oct 18, 2016
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  19. Vincent Conte

    Vincent Conte Member

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    I had the battery charged and load tested at the auto electricians. He said theres nothing wrong with it.

    Yeah. Its too late to work on it now. Tommorrow. My plan is to attempt to clutch start it. If that makes it crank and fire would that mean it has somthing to do with the ignition system i.e starter mod and stater?
     
    Vincent Conte, Oct 18, 2016
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  20. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh probably starter coil or starter motor. Just because the battery was tested doesn't mean it's not flat now... double check that before digging too deep, buy a cheap multimeter :)

    Clicking on any electric ignition is usually a battery related problem in my experience.
     
    Joker, Oct 18, 2016
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