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Project Joker's Angry Fizzer 400

Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by Joker, Nov 4, 2016.

  1. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  2. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I ended up making my own - way too much fuss and I cannot recall my final solution - I think it involved a drilled steel rivet nut with a stainless sleeve over the cable and held into the rivet nut with a stainless grub screw - it works, but took me ages to arrive at that solution

    Now I suspect you might be able to source servo rod control ends from a hobby store that will go straight on much more easily
     
  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I normally make my own cable's and end's
    Some of the bigger lead bicycle end's can be filed down, drilled and soldered to the cable
     
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  4. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Well it sounds like you guys are very industrious which is a great quality. The first time around I spent a couple of days looking in the end it was time wasted because not only could I not find everything I needed, I couldn't even find what you're talking about to file it down or drill it myself. Sweet relief was watching the $20 go to venhill knowing I didn't have to go through all that again, and hence why I did it again this time. Each to their own I suppose, for a $150 part I might be a bit more pedantic but for $20 - big winner in my books to save me the frustration I know I would endure if I attempted any of that myself!
     
  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I was talking about one of the bar nipple's on the end of the cable.
    Heat it up with a butane or propane torch and then carefully pull the end off the cable.
    Drill it to suit the new cable if needed, and file it to the size required.
    Fit it to the end of the new cable, apply some Baker's soldering fluid and then solder it on

    [​IMG]

    Otherwise you can use a piece of bronze rod and drill it to suit, fit it to the cable, then centre punch the end's to hold the cable in

    [​IMG]
     
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    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  6. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Old School skills.. :) good to see they are still in use.
     
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  7. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The guiding factor for me was - bike off the road meant time on the bus at the time, actually now that I've gone through the process I'd do it again for difficult to access replacement cables.

    Here are the rivet nuts

    [​IMG]
    Drill accurately down through centre, chuck in drill to spin off excess length and flange with an angle grinder using a flap disc and the sheath over the cable made the fixation with the grub screw very secure.

    The beauty is for any that have these replacements done, I can re-use the ends in the future if necessary.
     
  8. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    This is the type of thing I was mentioning which would be really quick and easy, servo control rod/cable connectors, pre-drilled just need grub screws

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Oh I understand perfectly what you're saying and power to you for all these clever improvisations :)
     
  10. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That was how you used to buy brake and gear cables for pushies back in the day... lol
    Cable outer was generally OK so you would replace the inner and end up with frayed ends...lol
    Plus if you didn't manage to do them up tight enough... the cable would slip... mostly on the gears.
     
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  11. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    For future reference for anyone with a broken EXUP cable- keywords EXUP cable repair replacement parts

    What size are the EXUP cable ends?

    These would need a hole down the centre - I suspect they're too big on the diameter for the exup - search for threaded round on ebay
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M4x10mmx...nd-Coupling-Connector-Nuts-20pcs/351787213253

    6mm diameter - 8mm long - search for threaded round on ebay - these may also work for clutch cable repair
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-M3...d-Bar-Stud-Round-Connector-Nuts-/252441600228

    4mm diameter - 6mm long - search for linkage stopper on ebay - there are loads, this is the sort of thing available at RC hobby stores
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282e-10x...06-hard-brass-suit-for-RC-Model-/201039729987

    I'm pondering getting the right ends and cable prepped ready for install for emergency repair. I remember 2kms struggling home with the exup cable broken, I wouldn't have made it had it been further
     
  12. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  14. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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  15. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    they actually sell just the nipples also, which is a bonus
     
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  16. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    The head is back, machined nicely and with the new threads done. He tested them up to 10nM so I'm confident the issue will go away. The valve cover gasket came from Israel and sooner than the gasket kit from the UK but I hope to have that this week and she'll go back together. I'll drop the sump off and give it a bit of a clean because the kit has everything in it so I may as well ensure all the goop is completely gone.

    15591547_10157901853755716_6239450312606937093_o.jpg

    And by the way... I decided on a colour scheme...

    4017front.jpeg

    4017side.jpeg
     
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  17. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The price for the kit is pretty good too, starting at $239
     
  18. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yes specifically they said (I emailed them) $239 plus $27 shipping, plus it comes with test bits.

    4015,-instructions.jpg
     
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  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    So you're having it resprayed too?
    Straight black or Blue/Black pearl ?
     
  20. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I gotta get another quote but I think it will be straight black gloss.
     
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