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Project MC18 Project - Brisbane

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Duggs63, Jul 26, 2013.

  1. 2smokeRonin

    2smokeRonin Active Member

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    Lovely! My favorite duc... but for some reason I still prefer the NSR.
    You can probably fit a SP dry clutch on the NSR :D
     
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  2. KICKERMAN360

    KICKERMAN360 Well-Known Member

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    Hey buddy, I'm the guy who sold you the NSR fairings (another NSR nut!). Nice to see your project is coming along. I bought another NSR as well, an MC21 this time (still dreaming of a MC28 though). And the fairings on this one are totally stuffed (even the mirror stay is bent beyond repair). Nonetheless, good to see your full restoration is going well. I'm down near Melbourne at the moment so hopefully I can get my MC21 up to par and go Phillip Island.
     
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  3. Duggs63

    Duggs63 Well-Known Member

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    Hi all.

    Sorted the oil pump and the little nsr is now self oiling, which is the good news.

    The bad news is that i took it for a bit of a run today, and when it is under load, it won't rev past 6-7k rpm. Although, when it's idling it revs all the way to redline freely.

    Any ideas?

    Cheers
     
  4. Neal

    Neal Active Member

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    How much charge is in the battery ?
     
  5. Fox McScrooge

    Fox McScrooge Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    And when you say it won't rev Duggs, what exactly does it do? Is it like it is just hitting a wall and nothing happens or is it like it is missing like a poorly tuned car?
     
  6. Brizfox

    Brizfox Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Check to see if the EVs are working. Carberation is another thing, didn't sound electrical but a bad battery might do it.

    Also check that the intake manifold is not bent and leaking air into the barrels this is a probolem and your oil problem has got me thinking that it could be sucking air .
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 26, 2014
  7. Duggs63

    Duggs63 Well-Known Member

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    It sounds like it is hitting a wall, and won't rev any higher. It does it in neutral too, I just wasn't revving it up enough before.

    I will acquire a volt meter and check the battery, but it is relatively new so I doubt that is the problem. There was also a very small amount of premix in the tank when I filled it up and got the oil pump sorted. I cant see that being an issue, but putting it out there in the interests of full disclosure.

    Thanks for your help guys!
     
  8. Fox McScrooge

    Fox McScrooge Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I was going to say it might have just been running way rich but if it's doing it in neutral I reckon it's probably electrical. Check the obvious. Battery like Neal said. I doubt it would be both coils. There are procedures on NSR world for testing the PGM as well. Spark plugs/gaps etc. Could be worth posting on NSR world too. Lots of experience on there.
     
  9. Duggs63

    Duggs63 Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys. Update time...

    So last time I posted I was here...
    20140716_185932.jpg

    Since then, the pipes arrived along with my 2-piece suit! :cool:

    IMG_20140910_164228.jpg

    Can I just say... These pipes are a legitimate work of art! I had a genuine debate with myself as to weather I should hang them on the bike or hang them on the wall!!! In the end, the bike won.

    IMG_20140913_164642.jpg

    Anyway, the bike had a bit of a miss as previously posted and wouldn't rev all the way through. I progressed anyway getting my hands on a refurbed radiator, a new screen, new grips and a few other bits for the old girl.

    After a few months, and a little bit of stagnation and frustration, I ended up loading the little beast into the back of the ute, and taking it to a bike shop down south, who it turns out actually imported the thing in the 90's (small world!). They are going to sort the bits and pieces I don't have the time and/or knowledge to get to.

    20150415_084537.jpg

    I spoke to them earlier in the week and it sounds like things are progressing well! The miss has been sorted and it is revving all the way out to redline now, but apparently there was 2T in the gearbox and the power valves don't appear to be working at all, so I have left it in their capable hands.

    Also, I have gotten some guidance from the boys at Tyga at the request of the guys who will be tuning it, and they recommend 150# main jets along with an airbox mod (which I haven't yet done) along with the pipes. What are others doing for airbox mods?

    I may have also ordered some personalized plates, partially because they are awesome, and partly to get me off my arse and finish this badboy.

    IMG_0299.JPG

    Hopefully more to come soon! :D
     
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  10. Duggs63

    Duggs63 Well-Known Member

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    I also been putting a bit of thought into a period helmet...

    gringo.jpg
    Thoughts? This guy knows...

    mc18-r2j-red-kneedown-270x405.jpg
     
  11. Fox McScrooge

    Fox McScrooge Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Pipes look nice mate. I just put a Tyga lid of my airbox. Probably triple the intake volume. Lot of people just take the lid off or run pod filters but they start getting pretty loud then.
     
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Beautiful motorcycle and in the hands of a good rider very difficult to beat. Only after riding something like this does one realise the importance of weight. How about those Tyga pipes? Damn they are a nice bit of kit. But then just have a look at Duggs collection, holy crap! You have to throw up a pic of all three together.
     
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  13. Moo

    Moo Plodge Racing!!!

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    oh mate.....what you have there is a dream!! well done! i'd say you will be grinning from ear to ear when you get it out!!
     
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  14. Duggs63

    Duggs63 Well-Known Member

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    I don't believe Tyga do an aftermarket airbox lid for the 18's @Fox McScrooge. I will see what I can find scavenging around the internet...

    Thanks for the encouraging words too guys! :)
     
  15. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Contributing Member

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    2strokeowl.jpg
     
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  16. 2smokeRonin

    2smokeRonin Active Member

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    Absolutely fantastic. Love the Tyga pipes and the Dainese suit.
    Hope the shop is able to sort out your issues.
     
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  17. Duggs63

    Duggs63 Well-Known Member

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    Hey all.

    So I spoke with the shop today and apparently the little beast is ready to go. Woot.

    However, at the shops request, I contacted Tyga for jetting recommendations with those pipes, and they advised that I should be running something in the vicinity of #150 mains, which was all good, and I obviously forwarded this on to the shops. However, when I spoke to the guy today, they said #150s weren't right, and they drilled out the existing jets back to #110s and that sorted it. This doesn't sound quite right to me, but given how little I know about carbies, I am not really in a position to question it.

    What is the best way to check that the jetting is ok?

    Thanks guys?
     
  18. Fox McScrooge

    Fox McScrooge Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Sounds odd Duggs because in stock trim the MC18 Mk1 has 130/132 main jets and the Mk2 has 128 main jets. I would have thought if you haven't made any air box mods or ignition mods the exhaust wouldn't make a huge difference. Might have to go up a bit from stock but not much. 110 sounds way too low. Especially if they say they drilled them out. From what? Sounds weird.

    You can check the jetting a few ways. If you aren't confident to do it yourself and even if you are the easiest is running it on a dyno that has an exhaust gas analyser. I think it's the way to go and well worth it for peace of mind. They can check the jetting at WOT and part open throttle which is what you need. The guy at Dynojet Performance is pretty good. Does a lot of drag bikes and modded street bikes. I took my bike in there way rich on the main jets and he got them right with a single jet change which saved a lot of time and money.

    If you want to do it yourself you can check it doing plug chops. Basically you need to install new plugs then run the bike at WOT preferably in top gear slightly uphill for a few hundred meters then pull the clutch in, kill the ignition and come to a stop. After that take the plugs out and check the colour of the deposit on the white ceramic part. Should be a light tan colour. Lean will be white or grey. Rich will be dark brown or black. That will confirm the main jet setting. You can then repeat plug chops for different throttle openings to check jetting on the needles/pilot jets/air screws etc at part open throttle. To do it right you should be installing new plugs for each check. Only problem is if it is set up way lean, you may nip up the engine just doing the plug chop.

    Other things to look for are the exhaust. If the bike has good compression and the oil injection is set up correctly, if it is blowing a heap of smoke that generally indicates rich condition. If the end of the exhaust is black and wet with oil it generally indicates rich condition. If it's dry and white it normally indicates it's lean. If the bike is sort of doughy and won't rev readily when you are riding it that normally indicates rich condition. If it's pinging it's definitely lean. If it seems like it is always wanting to increase revs at a steady throttle setting, normally means it is a bit lean. Opposite for rich. Other way is after you have run the bike for a while, to take off the heads and check if there is any pitting on the head or top of the pistons and the pattern of carbon on the pistons. Any pitting indicates it is lean somewhere. There are plenty of sites on google that explain the piston patterns and plug chop procedures as well as what components of the carburetor most influence jetting depending on throttle opening.

    It's a bit of a black are really. As an example, my bike had 140 main jets in stock condition. I modded the ignition, the air box, the reed block, the exhaust manifolds, the exhaust and had some mild porting done. I ended up with 155 main jets (which were still a bit rich on a dry 26 degree day), but I ended up running way leaner needles than stock and smaller air jets than stock to get the jetting right at part throttle openings. Check out the dyno graph below. Both runs are at WOT. The first is with 170 main jets and you can see it is way rich at 9k plus and a little lean below that. The second run is with the 155 main jets and it's still a bit rich at 9k plus but it runs well and puts out good power so I kept it there for peace of mind. But on the second run from about 6-9k it is way lean. I fixed that with the smaller air jets (not sure if the MC18 has air solenoids?). The graph doesn't show the bike running at part throttle openings but we did check it and like I said it was way rich. I didn't have the carb parts to sort it on the day but later on I installed leaner HRC needles at the middle clip and the bike ran better but was still a bit doughy and blowing a fair bit of smoke at part open throttle so I lowered the needles by a clip and now it's all good. It's probably still a bit rich everywhere except idle but I don't mind that as it revs out well and will run even better in winter with the colder and denser air.

    scan0001-1-page-001_zps85fa2e4e.jpg
     
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  19. Brizfox

    Brizfox Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    NSR get together needed I think fellow Brisbane NSR boys.
     
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  20. Duggs63

    Duggs63 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Fox. It seems like you are quickly becoming the local NSR guru. I think a dyno session will definately be worth the piece of mind. Do you mind me asking what the cost was there? (PM if you like).

    Definately up for an NSR day Briz. I will need rego first but that shouldnt be too far away. :D
     

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