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Project My '90 FZR250 3LN3

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by my67xr, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    You need 2x of these for the inner 2x carb's and 2x of these for the outer 2x carb's.
    Also double check the main jet's are correct for the outer and inner carb's, the Packaging was listed the wrong way around on the one's i got.
    Might pay to get a Litetek kit, or the 2x full kit's to give the carby's a complete overhaul.
    http://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR250_3LN3.html

    I just went with the Keyster kit's as money was a bit tight

    You should start a build thread on your bike.
    Very handy to have what you've done and when you did it all listed in a thread.
    Start the thread in this section
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2017
  2. G1D1

    G1D1 Member

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    Cool, so 4 of those kits and the litetek kit or is it one or the other?

    Litetek kit - do I need service kit A & B for the complete overhaul?


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  3. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Whats anything in the carbys got to do with a leaking fuel tap? .... if it leaks then your losing fuel into the atmosphere instead of thru the system which is going to affect your fuel economy .... I think every FZR fuel tap Ive dealt with has leaked ... and Im talking about leaking externally not past the 'off' position

    And why would u not turn it off when the bike is sitting? .... its there for a reason
     
  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Nah there's no reason i don't turn it off, it doesn't make any difference on my bike.
    If your tap is leaking externally then that is a problem, mine was leaking at the bottom press in joint for a while but i fixed it with some Devcon epoxy.
    Then i ended up replacing the tap with the one off a TDM850 (same as early FZR250), and fitted some new Litetek seal's
    The picture of that tap you posted would only have been leaking internally too, the o'ring looks ok.


    The Keyster kit contain's all the jet's/needle's and mixture's screw's etc etc and a few seal's, enough to do a minor rebuild.
    The Litetek kit is just the seal's, but they are a lot better than normal one's as they are made with Viton, unlike the Keyster kit's
    The first Litetek kit is if you don't split the carby's, the second kit is needed as well if you do split them
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2017
  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    If u follow the Litetek link I posted before u will see whats needed for the fuel tap ... but u will have to open yours up to see whats inside as they vary

    The main thing usable in the Keyster kits are the needles and needle jets ...as they are unobtainable elsewhere .... the other jets dont wear out, they just need a clean
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I have a working headlight switch now.
    Pulled it apart today and made up a new bar that connects the headlight knob to the switch (black piece to the right of the tan switch) and fitted a new knob to it.
    The black piece of silicon to the right of the knob in the top pic is the headlight switch delete for the Auatralian grey import compliancing.
    Cleaned up the switch housing and contacts inside at the same time.
    Now i can get rid of my temporary switch on the headlight bulb earth wire. 20171221_171122.jpg 20171221_171212.jpg 20171221_191626.jpg
     
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  7. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Found a problem when trying to fit the new adjustable preload fork cap's this afternoon, the thread has the wrong pitch ?
    Have messaged the seller asking why the silver fork cap's for the FZR have a finer pitch than the black set's he sell's for the FZR's



    s-l1600.jpg
    s-l1600.jpg
     

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  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
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    The new correct thread Preload Adjuster's arrived this morning, front one in pic below
    The one in the background is the wrong pitch thread for our 250's

    20180209_172153.jpg



    I bought some new bright red tail light LED's (5730 led's) and they arrived today too, cost me $4.58 inc delivery
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2Pcs-Re...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

    Fitted them and had to change the clear panel in the bottom of the tail light as the red light lit up the numberplate red.
    I have just used some black insulation tape to block any of the red light from coming through, and i fitted 3x small led's to light the numberplate
    The tail light look's a lot cleaner and brighter now, stop light is really bright too
    Picture's don't do the led's any justice though

    20180208_192703.jpg 20180209_215839.jpg 20180209_215907.jpg
     
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  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Can u post up the link for these ... or better still a bit of a photo write-up in the Yam 4s section :D
     
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  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    New chinese Fork Preload Adjuster's are fitted, ready to head out and see how they go
    And there's a 'How To' thread posted here too

    20180210_154524.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Feb 10, 2018
  11. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The front end seem's to be pretty nice with the Preload adjuster's set at 1.5 turn's out so i'm happy with that purchase.


    Over the last month or so i have noticed a slight squeak around the rear shock over some bump's, maybe something to do with taking it down on the beach a while ago.
    I thought i'd take it out and check the linkage bearing's etc and clean it all and regrease them.
    It's a bit of a job to remove the rear shock etc.

    I've made up some quick stand's to hold the bike up via the footpeg's,
    used some 38mm x 38mm x 3mm scrap steel left over from my trailer build and skate ramp.
    I took the rubber's off the peg's so they wouldn't get damaged and the stand's slide over the peg's and locate on the peened pivot pin's at the rear of each peg so most of the weight is held on the steel section that bolt's up through the frame.
    As a safety measure i tied the bottom's together just to stop any movement with the peg's pivoting etc.
    They work really well too, the bike is very stable, the rear tyre sit's 25mm off the ground and will come in handy when i'm working on the bike in the future


    20180227_104815.jpg 20180227_105043.jpg 20180227_104805.jpg
     
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  12. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I needed to remove a few bit's to get to the mount's etc, top bolt is under the battery

    20180224_104600.jpg

    Took the rear fairing's off, battery and battery box out then the fuel pump and filter mounting plate, then i was able to access the top shock mount bolt/nut

    20180227_120411.jpg
    20180227_104738.jpg
    Next i took the bottom shock mounting bolt/nut off and lifted the shock out through the top

    Then i have removed the linkage and dog bones,
    All of it was pretty dirty so i have the bolt's and linkage soaking in some degreaser atm, will blow it all out and regrease it soon
    The rear shock look's like it has seen better day's, there is a slight bit of oil around the base and look's like the bump stop rubber has gone mia.

    20180227_105144.jpg


    20180227_103802.jpg 20180227_104715.jpg



    The bearing's in the linkage feel good except for the Spherical bearing, i can see it's worn some chrome off and has worn some groove's into the ball
    This will need to be replaced, hopefully they are easy to get locally 26mm x 12mm x 16mm GEK12T

    Spherical bearing from Australia-
    And conveniently enough, he live's 5 minute's up the road from me :thumb_ups:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12MM-BO...594076?hash=item1ed969949c:g:FGsAAOSw5KtaelEz

    20180227_115816.jpg 20180227_115833.jpg 20180227_115930.jpg


    I will give the frame etc a clean while it's apart too

    20180227_104738.jpg
    20180227_104746.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
  13. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Ive heard about the FZR 'rear squeak' many times

    Might be worth checking the swingarm needle bearings also
     
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  14. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah will do,

    The Spherical bearing is linked in my post above GEK12T going by the dimension's. I use McGill Motorsport's when i'm making or fixing race car front and rear end's etc.

    I'm pretty sure the squeak is from the shock Sperical bearing though, the swingarm feel's nice just lifting it up and down now, but will look at those bearing's too.


    The rear shock is past it's use by date, so it will be getting replaced while i have it all apart
    Picked up this 2007 R6R rear shock last week for the bargain price of $40, the guy had it fitted to a Suzuki GS500

    20180227_105924.jpg


    i'm making up some new shorter stainless dog bone's atm, 30mm x 6mm wide at the end's, might leave them straight for the moment instead of cutting them into dog bone shape's
    I found these which i could replace the stainless one's with later if they are the right length and have adjustable rear height for fine tuning.
    Or these would be a lot better quality wise

    20180227_122145.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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  17. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    @maelstrom So far i have


    FZR250 3LN3 Shock to linkage bearing x1
    Yamaha 93399-99919-00 Bearing Spherical for linkage, shock lower bush (1x required)
    also used on these models and components:

    Bearing dimension's- 26mm od, 12mm id, 16mm Wide
    GEH12C plain spherical bearing, or GEK12T teflon lined spherical bearing


    FZR250 3LN3 linkage to dog bone bearing's
    Yamaha 93317-21746-00 needle bearing, (4x required)
    2x used in linkage for lower dogbone's, 2 used in swingarm for upper dog bone's

    also used on these models and components:


    FZR250 3LN3 Linkage to frame bearing
    Yamaha 93317-31701-00 needle bearing, (1x required)
    Linkage front bearing, linkage to frame

    also used on these models and components:


    There are 6x seals for the bearing's in the linkage,

    4x seal's are 17mm x 24mm x 4mm seal's for the needle roller bearing's
    2x seal's are 16.5mm x 26mm x 5.5mm for the spherical bearing


    20180227_140740.jpg
    20180227_141251.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Great work, I will stick it up soon.
    Edit: @my67xr Most of those are already there but the number I had for the spherical bearing is GE12G.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah i had a quick look on your site.
    There are a few different bearing with the same dimension's, some plain, bronze lined, teflon lined etc so the number change's
    There's a cheap Chinese one called GEBJ12S

    I picked up the new GEK12T Spherical bearing after school pickup today, the guy is opening a wholesale warehouse not far from here in the next few week's.
    He has too much stock to keep at home now, his ebay store is pretty big
    The seal's aren't readily available with the 16.5mm one, and the 24mm one they only keep a 25mm o/d seal, the bearing shop had no listing for either
    So would have to chase them down online, they should be used on other bike's so it's just a matter of finding out which one's
     
  20. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    So today i finished off making the second dog bone it is 122mm long.
    Fitted the new shock spherical bearing to the linkage and put it all together.
    The bike now sits about 50mm higher than it previously did, and i cant compress the shock at all.
    Previous experiance with shorter /longer dogbones has taught me that 3mm longer or shorter can have a huge effect on the shocks stiffness.
    The FZR250 3LN3 dog bones are 140mm centre to centre, i now have 122mm dogbones in.
    I am guessing they need to be around 135mm +/= long as the R6 shock (290mm eye to eye) is 10mm shorter than the standard FZR250 3LN3 (300mm eye to eye) shock.

    The 2008 R6 shock (build date 2007 on the sticker) is also different at the top section, it require's the battery box bracket to be cut off flush with the top shock mount on the frame, this will require my battery to be relocated, as the seat just touch's it atm when fitting it, i wont be able to lift it 5mm to use the battery box holder if i modify it to clear the shock.
    The battery is too heavy to be just hanging from the 2x 6mm bolt's that hold the plastic battery box to the frame without the bottom holder.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2018

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