Just a smooth idle where the engine is not stumbling. It's all by ear actually. A sick engine (poor compression) will have to have a higher idle because it will just stall otherwise and vice versa. I have never set an idle to what a tacho says. C'mon Mr Grey give it a shot; I want to hear what happens. All this diagnosis by internet is painful. The mechanic has to be right when he said its rich, first impressions are usually the correct ones. cheers Blair
yeah I found the ebay ones in the UK - those poor fellas get shafted worse than we do on prices. those partzila prices are totally reasonable, what's their shipping like? Anyone dealt with them? Average price I could find here was $60 - $80 which is a rort
Good work Glenn. Partzilla is about $40 for shipping. I have an order sitting at Partzilla right now. If you want something I can get it for you and post it on.I can ship back to you for 100 THB. cheers Blair ps: I might have to pay 7% tax though and you have to be quick coz they are due to ship it this week
Ill give it a go soon and have a play with the pilot screws as the idle is definately up the creek. Its a hard choice between sitting in an air conditioned house or working on an annoying motorcycle out in 35c heat. Im sure I had a compression tester and was searching for it last week to test the FZR as I know I did the Triumph back in the day..... who knows where its gone. Ive bought a few things off Partzilla ..... they have a good range and prices are usually good. They dont deal in FZR250s specifically (as they are pretty scarce in the states) but of course theres plenty of parts that cover a zillion models. USPS Priority Mail International Pricing by Order Value and Destination Order Value 0.01-29.99 30.00-59.99 60.00-99.99 100.00-199.99 200.00-299.99 300.00-399.99 400.00-499.99 500.00-Up Canada $32.99 $32.99 $32.99 $34.99 $38.99 $40.99 $43.99 $47.99 Australia $43.99 $43.99 $43.99 $49.99 $54.99 $65.99 $65.99 $76.99
Blair I can't take credit for greys search finds One of the better ones I found it OZ, part number 30 - that price ain't good either http://www.toptwo.com.au/find/fiche/12059
On another note .... How much wear would the plastic seat part endure? Wouldnt all the wear and tear be on the needle point so to speak? In other words would just replacing the the needles be satisfactory? Heres the float needle part# for reference ....
I have been pondering that very question, I need to pull my carbs again and inspect the seats under a loupe - common sense though tells me, taking a short cut and not replacing the set will come back to bite me later and yet more running issues and disassembly and re-assembly. for the partzilla price the question is a no brainer, the killer if going to be the wait for shipping...especially at christmas but you get that... peace out
Hi guy's, just spent the last hour catching up on all above, you've been busy. Some of it sounds familiar to my 3Ln1, doesn't crack off idle but runs well on the road. Anyway you both seem to have flooding carbies via the needle & seats, there is a carby specialist that works wonders with Walbro carbs on Racing Karts, http://www.easitune.com.au/index.html I'd call to see if they can re seat what you've got, good people & not expensive, worth a try. Also if you find anything in Japanese my translator is happy to keep translating
thanks Blair - I did fumble with them initially, got to 3 turns by myself then found a document, perhaps the 3ln1 supplement you posted to be able to differentiate between the inner and outer carbs
grey re the mechanics opinion it sounds like as long as there in ok spec carbs are hardy bastards (my old across carbs were disgraceful but still ran ok ) im starting to think more and more our problem may end up being the valve clearance also i have a 3ln oil sensor thingo you can have it for the cost of postage if you want it
Thanx mate ..... I have a spare from the spare motor that I removed when it happened before .... I think I remember reading you can also clean them out? Im going to change the oil also first just so I know the exact amount is in there ...... plus after a couple of runs now Id like to see the condition of the oil anyway, as of course who knows its past and how long since the old oil that was in it at purchase had been changed. Everything Ive ever read about these things is the 2 major components that need to be A1 for a decent running bike is carbs and valves...... or to put it another way , to make the biggest difference in how it will run.
Guys just an FYI, I made trip to a local bike shop in search of some needles and querying the lead time on the needle & seat valves. None is stock. Yamaha Aus. is awaiting an order from Japan due to arrive 10th January, then 5-7 day wait to get to the dealer... So I ordered them from Partzilla, almost half the price and with any luck less that half the waiting time. I did try inserting a brass sleeve into the seats, which was an epic fail, all four carbs now overflow, but I knew they were already worn out so I had nothing to lose. I have another plan with the brass seat inserts I'm going to try in the meantime, but it's merely academic at this stage. If I do get it to work I'll do a write-up so anyone wanting to keep mobile whilst parts arrive can follow the procedure. peace out Glenn
Dropped the pilots back to 1 turn out ... starts ok but when u snap the throttle back it takes a couple of seconds to drop back to idle (a symptom of running lean?) Ill try 2 turns out next.
I set them all at 3 turns out when I rebuilt the carbs .... Yam mechanic (when trying to start it during rego check) instantly said it was rich
From 2 if still lean go up in quarter turns or if rich down in quarter turns. I'd wager the former. I have read they are fiddly and quarter turns make all the difference
yep hang(ing) idle after revving it means running lean hop on it and see if you have to give it a handful to get it to pull away from stationary - that's another good indicator of running lean on the idle circuit peace out