Project My Fizzer

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by GreyImport, Sep 24, 2012.

  1. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    All roads seem to lead back to relying on the needles holding or there's a problem.
    Maybe we need to replace the needles more frequently to avoid these problems ?
    There's a Mikuni dealer down south somewhere that should have specs & parts.
    Seems when ever someone does a carby clean or rebuild they go better for a while, haven't read where anyone has replaced the needles because of the cost & probably because of knowing what is the right part number for the 250's.
    I can translate from Jap if anyone has a Jap part book ?
    I'm not too keen on using 400 or 600 parts as an alternative, factory engineers go to a lot of trouble calculating specific parts for specific models in an effort to keep costs down, not saying nthey don't share parts but you'd think fuel supply requirements would be critical & different enough to warrant slight changes, pump pressure & fuel consumption would have an effect maybe.
    Anyway I'm getting a better picture of what we are dealing with & we are going to be better off for it.
    Your right they are like women, you have to get to know them & deal with them appropriately
    Remember beware the cycles of the moon & keep your distance.
     
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  2. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hey Will, fear not we have the info you need - part number is 3gm-14107-10-00 - it is the exact same part used on other models, not a close match or subsitute

    Available from partzilla ~$22 US, or other sources if you need alternatives. See if you can split shipping costs with someone in oz that may have an order for parts as shipping adds a bit to the cost.

    Alternative is Yamaha Aust - they've got some arriving approx 10th January $60 each though.

    BTW my new needles & seat valves arrived yesterday, but I'm waiting on some o-rings to test for Grey, once I've got that done I'll give a complete set of results of the part replacement.

    The o-rings that came with the new parts are completely inadequate, I can lift the needle seats out with the floats attached by just lifting the floats - petrol under pressure is going to get past a seal that loose way too easily

    peace out
     
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  3. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Further to this. Grey, Ruckuss and I have been going over the fit of the standard float valve seat o-ring, and we are going to trial some alternatives. The FZR400 (I have one) is a lot tighter than Ruckus' 250, so with the new float seats and valves we are going to determine if there is really a problem with the standard size o-ring. If that turns out to be the case then I will have a run of custom o-rings made and supply a replacement set to all of my customers. Watch this space.
     
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  4. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    My testing today was inconclusive - so watch this space, I think I have made a breakthrough, but don't want to spill the beans too early and end up with egg on my face - this message seems to have a food theme - I must be hungry ;)
     
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  5. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    So I'm guessing the the seat is an insert into the float mounting base piece & the insert has an o ring around it.
    I wondered what the talk was about the o ring, I thought it was the big one on the base piece that comes in the kit. The fog is lifting, I never went that far when I rebuilt the carbs, maybe a good thing not to have disturbed them. It'd be nice if it is just the o ring that leaks & not the very expensive needle & seat.
    Or have I got it wrong?
     
  6. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Will,
    On my carb kit pages you will find a link under most of the pics of the o-rings and it is labelled "assembly guide"
    They have some pics and details of the o-ring/seal being fitted.
    This is a pic of the 'seat' the float needle fits into this and it shuts off the fuel supply when the float rises far enough.
    http://www.litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_FloatNeedleAssy.html
    cheers
     
  8. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Mr Gray did your chugging problem go away at the same time that you fixed your tachometer?
     
  10. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced the housing o ring as per your instructions with your rebuild kit. So what o ring are you talking about doing a run of? the new one was a very tight fit, relying on the pressure of the bowl fit keeping it in place.
     
  11. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Yes it is a tight fit for me too Will. However Mr Grey and Ruckus found that theirs was not tight. Also Ruckus found that the new Yamaha ones, that he received as part of his new needle and seat assemblies, were also loose. If there are manufacturing inconsistencies that are causing this then maybe I need to have two sets of o-rings for this function. One being the original size and another larger one for anyone that has a loose fit occurring. This is just being investigated as we speak so no hard conclusions just yet.
     
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    The great chugger issue!
    http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/2000-blaster-will-only-idle-49285/index4.html
    This guy had exactly the same problem and it turns out to be the kill switch!
    *****************************************************************************************************
    "Recall I predicted it would be something stupid and I’d kick myself for not finding much earlier? Well, as a last ditch effort, I unplugged the kill switch / light dimmer and kicked it. Lo and behold, music sprang forth as she fired up and responded to every flick of the throttle.
    The reason I hadn’t tried unhooking this earlier is that the kill switch had been working. That is, when it would only idle, flipping the switch off, killed the engine as it should. So I had reasoned that it was working properly and did not bother investigating into it any further."
    ******************************************************************************************************
    So we can deduce from this that an electrical problem can be the cause of AN engine not doing anything more than idling. No idea if this is directly related to the fizzer issues but it does mean that the possibility exists.
    cheers
    Blair
     
  13. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    To be honest I have no idea .... but your theory certainly sounds feasible


    This is kinda the problem with the 250 ... as maelstrom has noted his 400 float seat sits snugly in the carb body without any help so to speak.

    In trying to solve our running issues (and alot of others going on old forum posts from years back on the interwebs)
    we are trying to see if ....
    1. The 250 needle seat has a seating and sealing problem (bad design or wrong size o ring)
    2. The needle valve and seat need replacing after 20+ years
     
  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Funny you should mention that as the light switch plays up on that right hand switch block.
    I didnt really overhaul that switchblock (as I was in a hurry previously to get it running and rego done )
    It is on the list to be done though.
     
  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Will ..... to save me reading back 500 posts , your bike is running fine after the carby once over?

    Do u have a standard fuel pump and a correct Yam fuel filter ?
     
  16. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Well we're now back to my initial exclamation of the cause - the list is short however, run/stop switch and sidestand switch and tci & relay connections

    I need a way to differentiate between the carbs flooding and an electrical gremlin is those switches check out
     
  17. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    The TCI unit is a complex piece of circuity and the more complex something is the more likely it is to fail. In the case of the kill switch example it demonstrates that something that we would normally think of as a carburettor problem is actually electrical.
    That article I linked to http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/IgnitionFAQ.html#a10p2 and the other one give quite a list of possible issues and causes (removing moisture being a good start). Also we have to accept that these solid state units do not last forever even though we would like them to. This means that we could swap in another TCI unit, not knowing that it too, is faulty, and condemn ourselves to a life of pain looking for the problem that we can never find because "it can't be the TCI unit, I already tried another one". There is no need to think that it would be the end of the world if your TCI unit did fail. Transistorised ignition controllers of varying types, some programmable, are available and can be adapted to suit.
     
  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    How about the tacho Ruckus? Would be worth reading that section on tachometer. I know it is not specifically for the fizzer but it can't be a whole lot different. Don't forget the Exup too.
     
  19. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I've got no issues doing SMD rework on circuits so not afraid of the TCI, but not going to run at that first thing

    I still have to eliminate flooding and test the other o-rings, more to do just when I thought I had it licked
     
  20. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Forgot to mention that with the new needle & seat valves installed my fuel level changed to 9.2mm above the casting line on the carb - which is in accordance with the 3ln1 supplement that Blair posted.

    Interestingly it was 10.5mm across the board with the old parts. I measured it very accurately both times.

    The viton tip can become hardened and slightly deformed as well as the tiny spring becoming fatigued and weaker.

    So for anyone with a bike running rich it's worth the few dollars to replace the float needles at the very least - they're cheap and easily available locally - a link to motorcyclespareswarehouse is somewhere in this thread

    peace out
     

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