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Project Project SRX250

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by edwardo, Apr 5, 2020.

  1. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Best to use the correct bolts. I am sure between myself and Gary we can sort you out.
    If you are not going to use a front fairing I wouldn’t worry too much about the brackets. You can use a round headlight rather than the square one.

    I wouldn’t try running it until you have a chance to solder those wires up and cover them with heat shrink.
    They are the generator wires from what I can see so bare wires near metal is a worry.


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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  3. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Rear suspension.png

    The 3 bolts in question are specialist bolts with rolled shanks that are a specific length.. I guess you could find ones that will work but as the shank goes through bushes etc that take all the load from the rear shock I personally wouldnt be doing that.
    How are yours damaged? You can easily replace the Nylock nuts and even get them nickel plated to bring the surface back up to scratch.. I have several boxes of bolts from SRX's I have stripped as does Gary so as mentioned.. we should be able to get you the correct ones in good condition.
    Of note.. it appears you can still (potentially) buy them as they have a price etc on Megazip.

    https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-d...rx250-30141/srx250t-808899/swing-arm-14501365
     
  4. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Will definitely be soldering these up, was amazed they were just sitting there. Had a closer look and the insulation was just cracking off. Might have to replace them at the ac magneto.

    Cheers! Would like to replace a fair few bolts on the cases too as they've been chewed out.

    I thought if I could find a bolt with the right length of plain shank I'd be all good. Mine are rusted and pitted. I've seen a lot worse but if I'm going to all the effort with seals and bushes..

    My swingarm has a different linkage piece (#10) but the two bolts would be #11 and #24. M14 x 140 and M12 x 120.
    You guys might be able to bail me out with this one, I was thinking get as close to right as I could with a high tensile bolt.
     
  5. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed
    Pretty sure i haven't got either #11 and #24. I'll re-check though to make sure.
     
  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    If you get bolts from an engineering shop make sure you get them longer so that you have the same amount of unthreaded shank as your original bolts and cut off the excess thread.
     
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  7. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    How is your linkage different to the one pictured?
    All SRX's up to the 1991 3WP have the identical rear suspension so it shouldnt be different. Maybe post up a picture.
    I will have a look in my Garage later on today.. I am pretty sure I have at least one, if not both those bolts.
     
  8. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    OK, I remember now... yours should look like this one.
    The smaller end goes onto the frame and the shock goes in between the yoke on the larger end...the picture shown in the Megazip breakdown is actually how the 3WP is.. Still I should have the bolts... I think.

    SRX Suspension.jpg
     
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  9. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Yup that's my set up there. I have replacement collars ordered through boats but they didn't have the bolts available.
    My RHS dog leg was a bit chewed out on the swingarm end too, a few sites I looked at had them as unavailable.

    Thanks for looking!

    Yeah that's what I was thinking. I think it might be hard to get the unthreaded section spot on but a bit over should be ok and just cut off the threaded section if its too long.
     
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  10. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Doglegs wont be available as a new part.. may be hard to find in Australia as well..
    I did find this on Zenmarket https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=t524371888
    Expect to pay about 3 times that price by the time it lands in Australia... just my average rule of thumb when you add in Local Japanese freight, EMS freight and the buying house fees..
    You can look at the same item on sites like Buyee as well but I have found Zenmarket to be better in terms of fees etc but each to their own.
     
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  11. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  12. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    A very quick search turned up the M12 bolt and nut. I will need to go through a few more boxes to find the other one I think

    [​IMG]


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  13. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    I did buy some bits from Japan and yup, once it was ready to ship it cost a lot more than I initially expected. Still haven't actually received it too. As it got to the airport in Japan it was turned around due to covid restrictions.

    My M12 bolt isn't too bad, it's mainly my M14 one, really quite pitted and rusted. If you happen to find one I'd be glad to purchase!

    On another topic, does anyone have any tips for removing need roller bearings from swingarms? My slide hammer bearing puller tool is too chunky on these narrow bearings and actually grips the cage and rollers before the outer race. I've tried a socket and a drift down the middle but they keep ricocheting off. I actually knocked out a roller a couple times. I don't intend on replacing these ones, rather clean and repack. Would rather get them out in one piece.

    Could leave them in but not convinced I can clean them thoroughly while still in there..
    IMG_20200508_182556.jpg
     
  14. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Leave them in as they are usually destroyed in getting them out. Clean with petroleum cleaning agent and blow out with air line. Repack with fresh grease and sleep easy.
     
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  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If your not going to replace them then leave them in .... Ive done plenty that way ..... just get in with plenty of degreaser or wateva and then hose them out ... leave in the sun and air gun them as well
    Use a brush, your fingers or wateva to roll the rollers as u clean
    .... then I drown them with this

    grease.jpg
     
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  16. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Alrighty then, they will be left in just wasn't sure about the cleaning. Will get at them with a brush and elbow grease when the time comes.
    Cheers fellas
     
  17. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Frame is being blasted and coated, should be able to pick up next week. Taking off the headers I noticed there was some oil on the RHS pipe, not sure what this means. Valve guide seals?

    I took off the rocker cover for a quiz too, looks very clean in there and the cam lobes look to be in excellent condition.

    I have a big order coming from boats but unfortunately I have received a few emails, each time saying some parts are delayed. Some parts delayed until early July, nice!

    Currently doing the menial task of cleaning and paint stripping the motor. What a job..

    Speaking of paint, I bought some satin black engine enamel but then saw that it wasn't very fuel resistant.. Bugger doing this job twice if there're any fuel mishaps. Then read that people have success just using normal 2k on motors, much hardier and resistant and temp not an issue. Was also thinking of polishing the fins + black motor. Then thought polished fins + polished cases.. Not sure if it'd look right on an srx..
     
  18. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If the bowl overflow is attached and the carbie is setup correctly you shouldnt worry about Fuel resistance. Original factory paint wouldnt have been 2 pack.
    The duplicolor engine paints do cure better if baked... but you might not be popular if you put and entire engine into the oven for an hour or 2.. lol
    For what it is worth... If you are worried about it you can get some 2K satin clear (Eastwood make one) that is in a can. Just give the engine paint plenty of time to cure properly and a light scuff before coating. Make sure the area is extremely well ventilated and wear a respirator.... the Eastwood 2K range does include Iso Cyanates so be careful.
    @2valve has his engine fin edges polished and the rest black.. gloss black if memory serves correct and it looks really good and was a factory paint finish on some models I think.

    I have looked everywhere but I dont have that larger bolt... but I did find a really good complete linkage assembly for you in Japan.. lol
    https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=r404023444

    Probably be around $150 landed here... eventually
     
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    This one ?
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-...854703?hash=item1a89d913ef:g:FHYAAOSwTuVdxc5W
     
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  20. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi to all.
    Regarding polishing the head fin's , this was factory done. Have a 1984 (i think) Yamaha pre-release brochure that's show's that the head fin's where polished back then.Yamaha actually glued a 35mm picture onto the front cover of the pre-release brochure , how thing's have changed these day's with factory supplied brochures. What i'm aware of , all of the SRX 250's 51Y models all had polished the head fin's.

    Andy's SRX 250 3WP guided missile has silver painted engines that i'm aware of , but Andy will correct me if i'm wrong for future knowledge.

    20200522_150250.jpg

    Regarding carby fuel leak's , it may be a good idea to check # 50 & # 51 x 2. The fuel hose decided to weep after the new inlet manifold's where fitted.This fuel hose was still very soft , but i think it was mainly the 2 x clip's where the issue.But i ordered a new new part's just in case. Tygon brand fuel make a hose that fit's if you have some , but the O.E clamp's will not. Since i wanted to keep the bike original when possible i ordered the original part's.

    Also , Andy reminded me that there is another fuel hose directly above # 50 , which is # 47 in the part's fiche below.

    1.jpg
     

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