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Project Project SRX250

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by edwardo, Apr 5, 2020.

  1. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Hopefully a poor photo. But if you can feel those marks with your fingernail then it is likely to be an issue.
     
  2. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Spent some time this weekend on the bike. First time I've actually been able to do anything in weeks really.

    Masked up the engine and got it ready for paint.
    Rattle can etch primed. I have some satin black to go over it.

    Could any of you champs who have painted an engine before weigh in on this. Read a bunch but looking at personal experience. Not sure if I need to scuff this etch before high temp prime and satin black?

    Unfortunately ran out of time so it'll sit in etch for a week. That'll let it dry fully which makes me think a light scuff might do it good.

    Cheers
     

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  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah i would just give it a light scuff with grey scotchbrite and a good blow off before painting
    It won't need high temp primer before painting the finish coat
     
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  4. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Cheers! Will do. Got some high temp primer as I had seen another bloke paint barrels and head with it before satin black and finish looked good. Reckon it can go without?
     
  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I've never used it, you don't want the paint to be too thick
    Just give it 2 light coat's of paint, then 2 maybe or 3 wet coat's
    Let it dry for an hour then into the oven at 90 degree's for 20 minute's
     
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    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
  6. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Got around to painting the engine on the weekend. Unfortunately can't bake the high temp paint on which is a bummer.

    I plan on chucking it in the frame next weekend then putting on all the new stuff I bought and have had floating around for ages.

    IMG_20200809_202316.jpg IMG_20200809_203449.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Aug 10, 2020
  7. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Head + cylinder came back all clean. I will sand and polish the fins I reckon. Included a pic of cylinder to appease those who doubted to shmickness haha

    Anyone have a rebuild fresh in their minds? I will be getting around to chucking the head and cylinder on soon but can't remember the exact number of dowels and locations.

    Parts pic shows a large and small dowel (7 and 9) between cylinder and cases. I swear mine had 2 large ones? Could be my imagination.. also hear people say to buy new ones but I dont see the necessity. Peace of mind for sure but yeah.

    Also thinking about rewiring stator. Mine tests out fine but looks putrid. I have a spare which helps.
     

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  8. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    2 large dowels, 1 between the Jean and the barrel and 1 between the barrel and the cases.
    It goes in the oil feed line to the head. You will see it quite clearly.
    Make sure you wash that barrel out really well and then wipe it with white cloth until it is clean, then wipe it with an oily rag to stop flash rusting.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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  9. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Looking good there Ed. The frame looks good in black actually.
    Watch that beautiful black paintwork on the engine block when you first turn on the fuel tap to fill the carby. Fuel and paintwork don't play nice sometimes.
     
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  10. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    Haha.. now I can see the picture again my failing old memory has kicked into gear.
    The small dowel is for the Oil Passage (item 7). The larger dowels (2 off) have the bolts running through them, see the pic from the service manual. Should be the same into the case as well.
    There isnt a dowel shown for the oil feed for the case to barrel, I think that is sealed with a gasket / O'ring from memory. Sorry but it has been a while since I did either of my engines.
    SRX Assembly.jpeg
     
  11. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks for the input!

    Yes definitely will be doing that, everytime I see a rebuild vid or thread that's always stressed.

    I did just have a look at my engine parts and saw I had two large dowels for between the cylinder and cases. Also had two large dowels and a small dowel + seal for between cylinder and head.

    I guess that means there is no seal between cases and cylinder which is odd. Would have thought it should have one.
     

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  12. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Also here's the stator. Tests out 1.5 ohms between each winding. Manual say .44ohms +- 20%. Bugger. Looks crap too.
     

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  13. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Not sure about that. If all the windings are a similar value I would suspect your meter or leads.
     
  14. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah its a cheap tester maybe corrosion on leads etc. Will reinsulate as best I can and see how we go
    Cheers!
     
  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Make sure you check the resistance of the leads themselves and take that value into consideration (ie subtract it) when checking the windings... but that stator looks cooked.
     
  16. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah it's pretty fried. Cable insulation was flaking off it. I did buy some wire to do it. Not sure what epoxy or coating to use. Also saw people using insulation card on the poles to stop poles damaging the cable. I thought elec tape would work but prob wouldn't stand up to the job.
     
  17. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Pulled the spare stator out, tested out fine and didn't have fried cables. Think I'll just chuck it in and be done.
    Leqd resistance was about 1ohm and stator tested out perfect.

    Chucked in some nos O/s rings I found online. One marked rn (I think) 50 and one marked with just 50. The lettered and numbered one measured up perfectly for spec (0.35mm). The other one came out as 0.3mm which was odd.

    Anyone know how to tell the difference between the top and bottom rings? Are they actually different?
     

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  18. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    Yes, the Piston rings are different. Generally speaking the Top ring will have an inside bevel and the writing or marking should go to the top (with the inside bevel facing up). If there is no inside bevel you can install it either way.
    the 2nd ring should generally have a dot and an inside bevel on the opposite side to the dot. The inside bevel goes to the bottom.
    You may also find that the Top ring is slightly chamfered top and bottom on the outside and the 2nd ring has a slight taper on the outer surface.. the marking etc will always be to the top.

    End gap should be 0.2 to 0.35mm measured about 20mm down the bore from the top.. use your piston to make sure the ring is at 90 degrees to the wall..
     
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  19. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Haven't been able to do a whole lot lately. Gonna lap the valves and check clearances. Paint, then whack it all back together. Which brings up a question.. could be very silly..

    Is it possible for the timing to be out by 180 deg? Say if I assemble everything and all timing marks are lining up but the crank has rotated halfway around?
     
  20. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    As long as you time your cams to TDC off the flywheel you will be fine. Make sure you do it as per the manual including setting the tensioner. Make sure you rotate the shaft the right way etc and when you are 100% sure... rotate it multiple times to ensure nothing is hitting etc.

    Section 3 pages 51, 52 & 53
    The manual is in the Resources section if you dont already have it.
     

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