Been speaking with Ken this morning who races ZXRs at broadford & he uses 108 -112 size jetting to race,but no air filter & race exhaust.I can see why the 110 mains work for me. Its funny how when jetting is talked about the Noobs wanna go up, but those in the know come down in jet size.
big jets is one of @maelstrom pet hates, for good reason as it's such a fundamental misunderstanding of the concept of stoichiometric ratios and proper combustion
Wet sanded, spray putty, guide coat, wet sand 400g, 800g then dragged out the spray gun... mixed up the Primer Surfacer and shot several coats onto the tank... now its outside baking at approx 32 degrees C
Dude, can 2016 just f-off already? All my favorite musicians died, I now live in New Trumpistan- and now I blew up my motor! The pic is down the intake of 1 and 4. Note the valves aren't in the same position?! SONUVABIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Who's got a motor crated up and ready to sell? Alternately, what's it take to build a motor that happily holds 19k instead of just tolerating it?
Valve's in different position's, that's ok if the cam is still bolted to the head The lobe's of the cam for cyl 1 and cyl 4 are on opposite side's of the camshaft What happened when it stopped ?
It hasn't started since I rebuilt the carbs but they seem to be leaking fuel past the needles. I tried starting it and it went nowhere. It cranked over for a bit but at one point the starter just went *click* on a full battery and the motor refused to turn more. I drained a bunch of fuel off the tops of the valves and after pulling the plugs shot some out the cylinder. The lobes might be in different positions, but if 2/3 intake valves are closed 1/4 should be open, no?
Sounds like it flooded pretty badly and hydro locked. There is the possibility of damage but you can't know for sure until you either pull it apart (the expensive option - need new cylinder head gasket and base gasket at minimum) and check to see if the rods are bent, or get the bike running again (the cheap option - pray nothing bent). The engine wasn't running so chance of damage is low. The leaking float valves mean they could be damaged, or there is a build up of gunk on the seats. Blow the passages out with compressed air and make sure the valves in the needles actually work. Another trick is to put some toothpaste on the seats and spin the needles to lap the seats/needle tips. If the cylinder was full of fuel you will need to change the oil sooner rather than later as well, as it will have been forced past the rings and into the sump. Find out the firing order of the cylinders. The FZR's are 1-2-4-3 (outer cyl, inner cyl, outer cyl, inner cyl). When 1 is on TDC compression stroke, 4 will be on TDC exhaust stroke. Rotate the engine past TDC compression stroke on 1, and the intake valves on 4 should open, as it'd now be on the intake stroke. Get the cam cover off and you should be able to figure it out.
It's a 4-cylinder 4-stroke motor, so each cylinder should be on a different stroke. Only one cylinder should have open valves. At TDC/BDC, one cylinder will be closing a valve while another is opening, but only slightly, and typically inner-outer, not both outer or both inner. As Linkin said, check your firing order. Cross-plane Yamaha motors came out in the last decade, and like a V4, there can be overlap of their stroke phases. Hope you get it sorted.
So I was using my air compressor to spray CT-18 inside my 4WDs engine bay when the one way check valve on my air compressor blew apart. The whole cap piece just broke off! Not totally unexpected from a machine made entirely from Chinesium. So after finding out what this piece was called I went about removing it from the air compressor and then I broke the valve off at the threads! I wasn't even putting much force on. Again, not totally unexpected from a machine made entirely from Chinesium. So now I have to figure out how to retrieve the threads from the compressor tank without falling debris into the tank. I think I'll get some propane for my torch and apply some heat. The compressor cost me $50 from a mate so it's done well. Hopefully the tank doesn't decide to go bang!
I've had the same thing happen to an old china compressor i had. The one way check valve was made out of china muck metal, same with the outlet's under the main on/off switch, they snap off with the slightest of pressure, if you pull the airline they'd snap off. Get a decent thick brass one, this look's ok for a cheapy- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brass-Ma...350358?hash=item3aaaf5fa96:g:rroAAOSwCGVX5Kev I reckon this look's like a bronze plated muck metal one- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brass-Ma...181816?hash=item3d162ef778:g:BUMAAOSwwbdWNwX0 I picked this Ingersol Rand 16.1cfm compressor up the other day for $80, it wasn't building up pressure, was told it needed new reed's, the compressor cost him $1800 brand new. I pulled the head off and found a heap of blue silicon was used to reseal the head and reed valve plate's So i cleaned it all up, cleaned up a heap of silicon off the reed petal's and straightened the reed's so they'd seal, made a couple of new gasket's and put it back together. Piston's looked mint and the cast iron bore's still had the cross hatch mark's . The pressure gauge started to rise as soon as i turned it on and it was pretty quick to fill the tank and switch off at 150psi, i released the blow off valve and the compressor cut back in at 125psi, it put's out a constant 100psi with the blow gun on flat out or the bead blaster running It is a very quiet compressor, and has a lot of aussie made part's on it, i'm stoked
Wow, that's an awesome deal on a compressor! The little one I have came with a complete air tools kit so the deal was pretty good but a compressor that size for $80 is a steal!
After picking up 2 spare frames this morning... cleaning them off a little and stripping a few items off them I flattened off the primer on the tank... and finally shot the first coat of colour... 1 frame with swing arm, shock and link set aside to travel to Glen Innes in the next 4 or so weeks. My original frame and another one... surprisingly it is only 3 digits difference on the VIN to mine... And the Tank in its first colour coat... Not overly happy with it right now...
A little more Orange Peel than I would have liked... but nothing some 1500 wet sanding won't fix...then a few more coats... wet sanding each time before Clear coat...
Another shot... I was hoping for a little more gloss off the gun... but... it will come up as I lay more coats on...
It's 2k or acrylic metallic base coat isn't it? All you'll get is a slight silvery effect when looking at it in the sun. You don't need to rub back between coat's unless you have dust etc. The clear coat's will bring out the metallic and add the gloss/depth What top coat clear are you using ?
Acrylic Base... without access to a booth I dont want to use 2K (I am allergic to carcinogens). I will tak to my Pain Supply shop on Monday re the Clear... The one I used on the engine is pretty good and resilient to Oils etc but not sure how it goes with Fuel... so I will ask. I just checked and there is a little dust... mostly from the fan I had running... must turn it off next time I am spraying...lol I prefer to flatten it off... just to minimise any peel.