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Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Nov 3, 2013.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    My Bike:
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    Got new bits for the fuel pump, pop it together, no pressure and gasket is leaking. Bugger.

    Fuel proof sealant on the gasket sorted that, kinked o-ring replaced, so no more leaks and it builds pressure and runs....

    But there is a microscopic split in the pressure side on the outside of the housing, causing an external leak of fuel spray! Can't win.... going to see if it can be epoxied or if customer needs to bite the bullet and buy a new pump, either expensive and fast from Honda or cheap but slow from china...
     
  2. Why?

    Why? Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I got one of these for a CBR250R, fast delivery and worked a treat. Not sure if the 300 uses the same pump. Screenshot 2025-01-31 140809.png
     
  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Thanks, but it was the plastic outer housing. Which after installing it again has totally split around the retaining ring, so it's time for a new one, which is on the way.

    Incidentally, another CBR250R in at work today for a no start, flat battery.

    Battery charged up in the morning, popped it in, ignition on... no fuel pump... sigh.

    Pulled the tank and pump, both are pristine, when powering the pump manually it works. So we have an electrical issue on the bike.

    No voltage at fuel pump connector. Swapped relays with the cooling fan, no go. Confirmed voltage at the relay socket.

    Checked all the grounds which were good.

    Got the wiring diagram up, traced battery voltage all the way from the battery back to the relay socket, all good. But the relay is not triggering.

    Next suspect was the tilt switch, inconveniently buried behind the instrument cluster. No dice, works as expected.

    Scratching my head for a bit, I went back to the wiring diagram and noticed something. The diagram for the ignition switch does not match what's on the bike, but the switch is an OEM part.

    After much searching I finally came across what it's for - the ignition switch has a zener diode that steps down ~12V down to 9V which is sent to the ECU as a sort of handshake / anti theft measure.

    Sure enough, trace the wire to the ECU and probe for voltage... 12V, not 9V... bingo.

    That was not a fun 4hrs
     
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  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Another CBR250R - A lesson in what not to do. What's wrong? Half the unit is missing, sender unit is missing, no fuel pressure regulator fitted, burnt plugs inside the fuel tank, gasket about to break...

    IMG_6355.jpeg IMG_6356.jpeg
     
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  5. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Premium Member

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    Stripped the race bike down to bare bones.

    Electrics.JPG

    Giving the engine some TLC by checking the valve clearances; cleaning out the cooling system; Checking the thermostat works; rebuilding the starter motor (notchy and tight); sorting out the electrics (help from @jmw76).

    Valve clearances done and everything is back together. Took the opportunity to replace some o-rings and few other bits while i had the cams out.

    Work on the electrics is ongoing...

    Loom.JPG

    Rebuilt the starter motor and it's back in the engine.

    Starter Motor.JPG
     
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    Last edited: Mar 1, 2025
  6. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    My Bike:
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    Hi to all .
    Have been scoring some N.O.S part's lately , nothing to exciting , but i thought found some N.O.S secondary main jet's for the SRX 250 , part number 30X-14343-40.
    But , what arrived was a different jet altogether , the jet's look like part number 288-14343-59 , which suit's the principal carby.
    Well , the shape / style is correct , but usure of the bore , as i haven't a carby drill bit set to measure them , that's another tool i'd love to get.
    So these jet's where incorrectly stamped back in the 80's i assume , they've been floating around on a dealer's shelves wrong all this time.
    Look's like someone had been drinking to much Sake while processing these part's and not recognized that the part number was wrong for these jet's.
    Have made contact with the seller , he's a good guy to deal with and it's not his fault at all, he'll get back to me on Monday.
    The jet i was after is on the right , the jet's supplied are on the left.
    Have taken a picture , well , we all love picture's don't we :lolsign:.
    Jet's.jpg


    Since i'm still talking about finding new part's , i scored a N.O.S Battery positive lead pretty cheap , part number 51Y-82115-00.
    Fitted the part this morning , here's me thinking this will be a easy fast job , un-bolt old part and bolt in new part , nope :headbang:.
    The factory set angles on the positive lead terminal did my head in , what i thought how it would install , was nothing like i had to install it.
    If any SRX 250 owner's would like to chime in and show a picture of how there positive lead's (if it's an O.E part ) bolt's in , that would be much appreciated , it simply look's wrong to me , BUT :idk:.
    Here's a picture of how it ended up being fitted , it's not the way i'd usually install a main positive lead :confused:.
    Yes i know , the bike need's a clean :fuckyou:.
    20250302_093002.jpg 20250302_092947.jpg
     
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  7. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Premium Member

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    Ongoing work on the race bike. One of the front forks was weeping, so I figured I might as well pull the forks out and just check for muck. Those seals were changed during Covid, but the bike never goes out in the rain or dusty conditions, so I'm hoping it's just some dust/dirt causing the weeping. The fork oil that came out was like new, so fingers crossed.

    Frame.jpg
     
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  8. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Premium Member

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    I've been jumping between jobs as the weather dictates. I decided to pull the USD forks completely apart and make sure everything is nice and clean and looks to be working properly. Upside Down forks are a huge pain in the a*se for what I'm doing (drag racing), but they are well worth it on the salt, so I'm getting familiar with their workings before I head back to the salt in the next year or two. The rear shock on the ZXR250 is absolute rubbish in so far as it cannot be rebuilt without cutting it open and a whole bunch of stuff that is WAY outside of my pay grade. I even sent one to Keo Watson for him to confirm what can and can't be done with it. Keo is well known in roundy racing and is an expert on rebuilding and tuning CBR250 shocks. Keo confirmed that the ZXR250A rear shock is not rebuildable, so I guess I'll need to pony up for one of those YSS after-market shocks in the near future. Keo is looking for a replacement for me, but he wasn't too confident the last time we spoke.

    I would definitely prefer to has conventional forks on the drag bike and I'd love to get my hands on a complete ZZR250 front end to see what's involved in swapping the USD forks out for RWD fork/triple-tree & wheel. The whole front end of ZXR250 weighs a ton and the ZZR250 single brake rotor setup is also perfect for drag racing.

    Anyhow, the USD forks seemed clean until I pulled them completely apart; wow, how much rubbish/gunk is hidden in these valves and cartridges. it doesn't seem to take too much to clog some of these tiny orifices and change the behaviour of your shock regardless of what rebound or other settings you've selected.

    Fork rebuild 02.jpg

    All cleaned up and ready for reassembly.

    Fork rebuild 01.jpg
    I'm glad I did this level of clean as it will be my new standard for 'servicing' USD forks. I also took the time to do a @Linkin inspired 600grit clean up of the fork tubes and I will do a Dave Moss recommended rebuild. I went for a ride yesterday and noticed the front RWD forks on my NT400 were literally spewing out fork oil, so new seals ordered and another fork rebuild coming up in the near future. The ride was to the Venus Bay area of Victoria and I only noticed the fork leak half way there. I think by the time I got home there wasn't any fluid left in the forks; most of it was all over my bike!
     
  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic - Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    What colour was all the sludge that came out of your forks? Mine had a shade of green, indicating copper somewhere, or some form of oxidation. USD forks can be painful without the right tools, mainly to hold the fork and keep the damper rod from falling in all the time, and professional tools for that can be pricey.

    When I did mine I went with all OEM bushings, washers, seals and circlips, but I did totally remove and clean out the damping rods - lots of sludge.

    My set only had a compression adjuster on one leg, which is fine as it will control both forks anyway, many modern forks are separate function, one does compression, one does rebound.

    Rear shock on mine was not great either, but never got around to trying the YSS on it. But I did for the Bandit 250 I had from @kiffsta and it was a great match with the stock rebuilt bandit forks (again all OEM parts)

    Fork oil I think was standard 10w or 5w workshop stuff, nothing fancy, but fresh anything is better than old anything else.

    I still have to fine tune the 3LN6 suspension but it is waiting on swingarm and shock linkage bearings, but before that I still need to finish the carbs... I might have to buy another bike so work isn't so urgent on the FZR, and I don't want to rack up a lot of KM's on it really as its a rare one.
     
  10. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Premium Member

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    Fork oil was basically like new, which is why I was so surprised to find so much muck and black gunk inside the dampening cartridge and the valves. One of these forks was weeping which is why I pulled the forks off in the first place.

    Frame.jpg

    The seals were fine, just a bit of dirt causing the leak. I could have got away with using a Seal Mate while the forks were on the bike. https://www.mxstore.com.au/p/Motion-Pro-Seal-Mate-Fork-Seal-Cleaner-Single/08-080395

    I had new seals, but I didn't need them. The ones in there went in during Covid, but the bike only runs down a drag strip so not much compression or hard work for the forks to deal with. From now on I'll be doing a full strip down and clean whenever I have to do USD forks.

    Engine out.JPG
     
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  11. DamnitLaverty

    DamnitLaverty Doing things the hard way since '78!

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    IMG_1486.jpeg IMG_1487.jpeg Today was the one sunny day we’re expecting for the next while. Been cold and miserable for months, hit about 21 today- so I decided to ride to my Kawi dealer since Megazip said carb parts I needed were in a US warehouse. They were not, but I put 25-30 miles on my ZX4RR today, before coming home and ordering parts for everything it seems… the air Ts for my carburetors and a pull cable on the ZXR, a new clutch slave for the Monster (now a fuellie 900, not flatslide 750), an intake manifold for my Dodge Neon in preparation for a Haltech standalone and throttle by wire… just spent all the stupid money today. Oof. But hey, got a ride in!

    Busted carbs, not busted bike. ;)
     
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