Stu's Fizzer

Figured I should move the thread to here seeing I'm doing a partial rebuild of the 3LN3.

A relatively clean bike to start with, ran pretty well with a bit of hesitation at low RPM but sweet throughout the rest of the range.



Opening her up to take a closer peek the exhaust had seen better days but for the most part everything else looked like it needed a general up. Parts of the frame had a bit of rust, nothing penetrating too deeply but enough for me to do something about it.



Digging deeper it was quickly apparent the coolant was long overdue, but the oil didn't look too bad. Changed it anyway (Motul 3100 Gold 4T) and threw on a new oil filter (Hiflow HF3) and flushed out the coolant (shopping list). Plugs needed changing too. I put back in the stock NGK CR8E's rather than the "cooler running" CR9E's. Not a particular preference just putting it back to stock as a starting point, although I may change them in future if I'm going on longer runs.



Off with the front sprocket cover and yuck. OEM sprocket was fast on its way out and covered in gunk. Rear sprocket was borderline, so I decided to get a new o ring chain kit with two new sprockets (slipstream performance kit).



The EXUP cabling was also broken at the exhaust (notice the cracked bulbs on the end of the cable), but the valve moves freely enough. Still to test the servo hopefully that isn't dead as it would be a pain to replace (expensive or annoying. Perhaps even both). Rather than pay through the nose for replacement cables I'm going to attempt pulling through new cables through the housings and soldering off new ends. Need to try and source some bare cables when I next go shopping, will post the results later.



So starting the cleanup...

Ran a wire brush over the exhaust to clear off as much rust as possible than hit it with bondall ranex rustbuster. Industrial strength, pretty potent stuff but it chemically kills the rust and turns it black. that way I can prime/paint and maximise whatever life is left in the exhaust. I also buffed up a few places on the frame that I will prime/paint over later. It takes about a day to dry, so after treatment:



Also gave the sprocket cover a good clean, you have to be careful with oven cleaner as it tends to corrode everything (especially rubbers/seals) but I like to spray a bit on a toothbrush and give the oily gunk a good scrub. I find it's a bit more effective than degreaser and it works very quickly. After rinsing and wiping it off thoroughly:



So while I was at it I ripped the fuel tank off and pulled a bowl off the carbies to see how gunked up they were. Surprisingly clean, suggesting some sort of previous service. Don't know if I need to be worried yet as I haven't dug very deep but I ordered a Litetek kit to go through them completely and hopefully avoid any issues.



So, for now just waiting on chain/sprockets, Litetek kit then a bit more work to do. Probably going to do the front forks and brakes while she's off the road - may as well get a good starting point.

 

Sub.... way?

 

So... I curiously found this to solve my EXUP cable issue...

https://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_C...1-11-100_UNIVERSAL_EXUP_CABLE_REPAIR_KIT.html

Ordered a kit, I think it will do what I am hoping for the cables with the crushed ends. $20 including postage isn't bad, I got quoted over $50 each cable elsewhere (excluding shipping!).

 

Like Christmas today! Slipstream didn't have the Tsubaki kit in stock so they sent me an RK chain and JT sprockets instead. Not complaining, I know what I'm doing this weekend lol

 

When I was putting the sprocket on the hub it is attached to just kind of comes off, doesn't look like it's a problem or anything (everything on inside looks good) but is there a certain way it goes back on? I didn't take much notice when I pulled it off, that's all... shiny.



Also, rear brake seems to rub a bit. Would this be considered normal or do I have to turn some attention to the caliper? At the pedal the brake seems fine.

 

Gah forgot to add - how many links do others have in their FZR chains? The new one is slightly longer (3 or 4 links) than the existing but the existing one had the wheel most of the way forward so was probably "short".

 

Thanks guys, removing links is something I was hoping I didn't have to do. I'll see what's on the new chain, I may have to go buy a delinking tool which was something I was trying to avoid. Any thoughts on the rear wheel spinning? Should it scrape a bit like that?

 

Sprockets and chain are on, but I can't get the clip on. The chain link where it goes doesn't seem to push close enough together to even get close to exposing the grooves for the clip. Any tips?

 

Yeh someone with the tool could do it in a flash I'm sure. Hmm...