The timing is the same as the FZR, I checked that for sure when we started. Reason I know is that (1) cams and cam caps are the same (2) CCT is the same (3) Cam chain is the same (4) the timing marks on the cams/caps line up the same. The only difference is the T mark on the magneto, it is more similar to my 400 where it lines up with the engine case split rather than a dedicated position on the case. I checked that, the piston position and cam cap/cam alignment when I originally put it at TDC. I'm starting to wonder if I can transfer my spare FZR head onto it... that would be an interesting experiment but would probably have to put carbies on it as well... Yes normally I wouldn't reuse a head gasket but I'm trying not to invest in this bike. I am now a bit concerned that if I am able to get one and put it on I'm not sure it's going to fix the issue. The issue is now it is still binding without any spark plugs in it, I am turning it by hand slowly and it gets to the point I just can't turn it any further and it stops dead. Don't want to bend any valves so I'm not going to force it but I think that's enough for me to pull the head off again. Hopefully none of this has bent any of the valves. I'm not sure what to look for to see "how much meat" is left but that is something I'll look into. I have a service manual on the way but don't know when it will get here from japan either. Hmm I like the thought about another base gasket.....
It may well be a combination of things... the reason "not" to re-use a head gasket, especially on an engine like this is that the gasket has crushable sections (as you mentioned) that at the correct tension settings give the required clearance (given everything else is correct) for piston to valves etc. You can't re-form those crushable sections and they don't return to their original specs so you are effectively reducing that clearance... not to mention the amount they may have taken off the head... I can understand not wanting to invest in the bike though... The extra base gasket may well be a workaround...but you really should measure valve to piston clearances even if you use an extra base gasket... if there are any clearance issues it wouldn't be a good outcome at around 14,000 rpm... lol
Yeh I hear you. I guess it was worth a shot, I think it will seal ok but the clearances under tension are obviously causing an issue. I'll try to get a head gasket and see what is going on but either way head has to come off again now as I need to check the valves.
Is the thread in the head where that spark plug bottomed out on the piston any shallower than the other's ? Are the spark plug's that are in it CR8E's ? The spark plug's should still clear the top of the piston even with an old head gasket though. It was running before it was pulled down. I can't think of anything that'd cause the issue beside's different cam timing or the inlet/exhaust cams were swapped around Looking at your machined head picture it look's like it still has plenty of room for machining This is a picture of a head showing the 4x maximum machining limit pad's
Well I had a chat to the guy who was doing some head work on the 400 and he said it is strange indeed. He suggested the same as what has been said about putting in another base gasket to raise the bore a little to gain some clearance if I'm sure all the timing is done correctly. He said reusing a head gasket is typically not recommended but he has done it for years on dirt bikes etc where it doesn't matter as much, he just uses hylomar spray in those cases. The thing that confused him is how it bent the spark plug but it's possible the thread is a little deeper in the retapped holes than the other two which could explain it. Maybe as someone suggested I need another washer on the plugs. He didn't think the re-used head gasket should have much affect on the clearances. The issue is now I can't rotate the crank with the cams in as you get about 90 degrees from #1 TDC and it stops dead. Something is not working properly. Without the cams in it rotates freely so it's something to do with the valves. Will pull it off and have a look when I get some more time.
Sounds like a dumb question... but the cams were in the correct place... i.e. exhaust to exhaust and inlet to inlet?? Easy mistake to make... and the timing would be way off mark. The only other thing is... did the buckets go back onto the same valves?? That could also be opening a valve too far, too early... Doesn't explain the plug though....
Yeh they're marked "E" and "I" so it's easy not to confuse them, i'm careful with that sort of thing. All the buckets went back where they were supposed to go as well.
Yep... I know they are marked and you are very familiar with the Yamaha 4's sometimes familiarity leads to unusual mistakes.... (been there done that) similar to sparkies who change lights and power points live... they will eventually get zapped.. Something isn't adding up... maybe leave it for a day or 2 and then start from scratch again.. Clarity sometimes comes after a short break from a frustrating situation... And you can't really hurt the old head gasket any more... just clean it up and spray it again... at least till you find out what is causing the issue.. It will be interesting to find out the cause...
OK so intake and exhaust cams in correct locations, what about flipped end to end, I can see any pics with cams installed, but did notice the pics were from the RHS and from memory the cam location marks are on the LHS
The picture of your cam's for comparison, the 3LN cam look's like it has more duration (fatter/wider point's on the lobe's) Does the FZ250 cam have higher lift, the lobe's look like they could be a bit taller, but that may be due to the tip's being narrower and more pointed ? Looking at my 2KR engine i noticed that the pick up coil is in a different position to your FZ pick up coil. With the 2KR engine at tdc, the T on the flywheel is close to 30mm from the right of the pick up coil tab on the flywheel (clockwise) when the T line is lined up with the small arrow in the case If you look at your FZ flywheel is the pickup tab on the flywheel the same distance from the T marking ? If so, i'm wondering if there is a marking in the FZ case about 30mm higher up (clockwise) than where the pick up coil sit's in the stator cover when it's fitted, as the stator cover on the FZ250 engine is rotated approx 90° anticlockwise compared to the 2KR/3LN ? Sometime's flywheel's look the same, but can have the keyway slot to position it onto the crankshaft in a different position. If this is the case then your cam timing could be 90° out and causing the issue's you've been having ?
This image shows the cam in backwards with the timing end on the right hand side, from when you disassembled it... I'd say the cam(s) was(were) in backwards to begin with and just by co-incidence having the head skimmed tightened the clearance to the point of interference with the piston. Surprised it ran at all to begin with
Are you sure....? The FZR has the flared sections of the cam on the opposite side to the T mark on the flywheel (where the dots line up). Ie the flywheel is on the RHS (sitting on the bike) but the timing marks are on the LHS (sitting on the bike). Yes that photo above is before I disassembled it but it coincides with the FZR...
It wouldn't take long to swap them around and see if you then had clearance... easier than pulling the head off again..
Ok so I think I had a little win, I should have checked this again and I feel a bit stupid for not doing this earlier (lesson: always, always check never assume... I should know that as an engineer). I stuck a screwdriver in #1 and lo and behold at what I thought was TDC it was at BDC, meaning I was 180 degrees out. When #1 is at TDC the T mark lines up with the front split in the engine casing as opposed to the rear. I reckon I'll put it back together now and see how it goes... hopefully I haven't done some valve damage by turning it over by hand but we'll see.
Did you check out my theory ^ on the tdc marking/arrow in the case ? And if the engine was at bdc when you fitted the cam's, it still doesn't explain the piston touching the spark plug
check this pic - taken prior to disassembly, definitely on the right hand side on a 3LN1 from this thread - http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-zeal-fzx250-valve-clearances-howto.1697/
Ok so in short - now successful. I can turn the whole engine around repeatedly with no binding so I think we're good. @my67xr there's no markings around that area I double checked again. The only legible marks are the splits in the engine casing which line up with TDC #1 (on the front of the engine). On my FZR400 TDC #1 is on the casing split to the rear of the engine (closest to rider). I confirmed all that with what the screwdriver was doing to coincide with #1 piston movement. You are right though, it doesn't explain what was going on with the plugs but given it was from a retapped thread I might have just tightened it in a bit too deeply. I'll just nick another one in (yes I'm using CR8E's) gently and see if the motor turns over OK now, I'll pull them out again to double check. @ruckusman yes looks the same. You can see the dots on the flared section of the cams to the RHS of the picture, which is actually the LHS of the engine when sitting on the bike. That coincides with what I have. I suspect on that engine the magneto with the T mark will be to the left of the picture, which is the RHS when sitting on the bike... again coinciding with what I have. The other thing I noticed is that all the camshaft covers have those little dots, but if you look at I2 and E2 (left hand cam caps in the picture above) the dot is right next to the chain. I had them the wrong way round and the dots were to the outside of the engine which would have meant that contributed to the difficulty I had in turning the engine over (as they would be worn differently to how I had clamped them down).